Tial EWG controlled with factory boost controller?

[THUNDA]

Hey all

So picked up a 38mm EWG and exhaust manifold a few weeks ago and if I get time tonight I plan of chucking it on.

 

Got this pic from tial

 

But right next to "Electronic air controll valve" it says "vent" wtf is that

 

Also there are 2 inputs for vacuum lines on the wastegate

 

But on my factory wastegate it only has one, was thinking I just unplug that one and run it to the EWG but has become very confusing, 

 

on the new wastegate do I just both vacuum lines inputs together with a joiner then to the factory boost controller?

 

Any help will be appreciated

[Guest]

You dont use the factory ebc take that and the associated boost lines out of the equation and it will make sense. A manual bleed valve controller will have 2 ports which gets plumbed as per pic. An inline manual boost valve like turbo smart or gfb will only use the side port not the top port.

[THUNDA]

Roger that, just curious is there any reason to not use the standard boost controller? 

 

i.e: I currently have the standard boost controller hooked up to a wastegate (internal)

and i wanted to have the standard boost controller hooked up to a wastegate (external)

 

that way if I dont want to be super loud with the external I can just pop off the vacuum line and run the internal

 

have seen it work this way before (being able to swtich back and forth from internal to external) but cant remember what boost controller they were using

[Dairusire]

4 minutes ago, THUNDA said:

Roger that, just curious is there any reason to not use the standard boost controller? 

 

i.e: I currently have the standard boost controller hooked up to a wastegate (internal)

and i wanted to have the standard boost controller hooked up to a wastegate (external)

 

that way if I dont want to be super loud with the external I can just pop off the vacuum line and run the internal

 

have seen it work this way before (being able to swtich back and forth from internal to external) but cant remember what boost controller they were using

 

That doesn't work bud. 

[THUNDA]

14 minutes ago, Dairusire said:

 

That doesn't work bud. 

You mean the switching between internal to external just by swapping vacuum lines?

Because I have seen it work in multiple cars, only 1 subaru though, couple of skylines and a e39a vr4

You just dont weld the internal gate shut when you install the external (external is on the manifold just before the up pipe) when you unplug an internal gate it is in the shut position, with no diaphram helping it open it remains shut when the external is plugged in

 

#then when plugging internal back in the external stays shut in the same way

 

or do you mean the boost controller thing?

[THUNDA]

Right o

 

So chucked it on, pretty straight foward

 

 

 

1st run (with standard boost controller vac line which usually goes to internal gate, rerouted to the external

 

Results : external Gate operates (and sounds siiick!) but as soon as boost goes over 10psi the engine boost cuts

 

 

 Hoping theres a trick to get around this as Id really like to keep it as standard as possible in order to swap gates back and forth

[hunter951]

sounds like boost cut or similar...

 

i dont think you can run ewg with a factory 2-port. even if it did work, it wouldn't be effective because the duties are on the piss, hence high boost and boost cut issues.  as far as im aware, ewg can only be tuned via spring, bleed valve or mac 3-port EBC/ mac 3-port stock ecu tuned. 

 

Edit: i can remove all boost lines from my ewg and plumb internal back up, but the tune needs modification to accommodate the change. easier to have it plumbed into downpipe with a two bolt flange to change between. 

Edited November 13, 2016 by hunter951

[THUNDA]

2nd Test run:  Unplugged overboost pressure sensor (little black box with 1 small vaccuum line going to it)

 

Woop! Standard Boost Controller operates the new tial external wastegate!

 

I have a switch which i can change between 7psi and 14psi in cabin from the ecu which controlls the standard boost controller

 

and now change between internal and external gates by swapping over 1 vacuum line

 

"does dance" 

 

now just gotta pick up the exhaust from Zeus next weekend and install and then I can go for my first tune!  

 

[THUNDA]

[A_J_T]

I'm marginally confused so bear with. 

 

You installed a EWG for the sound?
You disconnected the MAP Sensor to avoid boost cutting?
Who is doing the tune? 

 

Stock boost on these is around 10-11psi? and boost cut "For engine safety" is around 16psi. 

 

What you have said about swapping vac hoses from IWG and EWG will somewhat work "as you now know" but due to the difference in wastgate diameter, spring pressure, location, even different lengths of vac line going to the valve will have a small impact on the duty cycle which is never going to work for both. Hence the veriation in boost between the two.   

 

Where do you have your boost gauge plumbed into and have you compared the gauge to another one, depending on the brand/quality of gauge its not uncommon for one to be as much as 1-2psi out. 

 

I'd be gentle until its tuned man, i can appreciate your reasons for the mods but just take it easy without reliable boost information and no way to check AFR's. If it is the MAP you have disconnected its possibly running rich anyway but eehh idk aye. you have a nice little car, don't want it to go pop prematurely 

 

Just my 2 cents 
 

Edited November 14, 2016 by A_J_T

[THUNDA]

4 hours ago, A_J_T said:

I'm marginally confused so bear with. 

 

You installed a EWG for the sound?
You disconnected the MAP Sensor to avoid boost cutting?
Who is doing the tune? 

 

Stock boost on these is around 10-11psi? and boost cut "For engine safety" is around 16psi. 

 

What you have said about swapping vac hoses from IWG and EWG will somewhat work "as you now know" but due to the difference in wastgate diameter, spring pressure, location, even different lengths of vac line going to the valve will have a small impact on the duty cycle which is never going to work for both. Hence the veriation in boost between the two.   

 

Where do you have your boost gauge plumbed into and have you compared the gauge to another one, depending on the brand/quality of gauge its not uncommon for one to be as much as 1-2psi out. 

 

I'd be gentle until its tuned man, i can appreciate your reasons for the mods but just take it easy without reliable boost information and no way to check AFR's. If it is the MAP you have disconnected its possibly running rich anyway but eehh idk aye. you have a nice little car, don't want it to go pop prematurely 

 

Just my 2 cents 
 

The RS is my baby, I drive it about once a fortnight, ive owned heaps of these cars and im nearly 30.  

I never thrash it at all lol, trust me I was surprised this thing was still running when I got it off a 16 year old boy racer.

It had a chrome steering wheel ffs

 

Yes installed an external wastegate which is currently venting externally. The reason was to free up the exhaust  / counter measure against boost creep

I dont plan on getting a tune untill all the mods are done, as for who is doing the tune, ill probably use this website to find someone whos been recommended 

 

I got a new boost gauge when I bought the car, a half decent one and installed it myself, boost gauge takes pressure direct from intake manifold, its not leeching off another line, very straight forward to install

 

Auto Meter 3301 
Sport-Comp Series Boost/Vacuum Gauge 
2-1/16", Full Sweep Mechanical, 30 In. Hg./20 psi 

 

I may be wrong but im pretty sure the the plug above the Pressure duty solenoid is the MAP sensor, which I did not disable

I disabled the small black box to the left of it, which ive been told is the overboost sensor

 

This car has never hit 15psi since ive owned it

 

I wouldnt be surprised if the car is running slightly rich, but there is no signs of that and all sensors are operating

 

Your right though I dont think I will keep the factory boost solenoid, I was just quite keen to get it to work so I could use both gates

im not too trusting of bleed valves so am thinking of a good quality EBC or fork out for an aftermarket ecu with an ebc add on

 

 

 

 

 

[THUNDA]

On 11/13/2016 at 1:16 PM, hunter951 said:

sounds like boost cut or similar...

 

i dont think you can run ewg with a factory 2-port. even if it did work, it wouldn't be effective because the duties are on the piss, hence high boost and boost cut issues.  as far as im aware, ewg can only be tuned via spring, bleed valve or mac 3-port EBC/ mac 3-port stock ecu tuned. 

 

Edit: i can remove all boost lines from my ewg and plumb internal back up, but the tune needs modification to accommodate the change. easier to have it plumbed into downpipe with a two bolt flange to change between. 

 

 

Ended up running a vac pipe direct from turbo to wastegate

 

I can actually hear the wastegate performing better compared to having the stock boost controller involved 

 

So have ended up cutting stock boost controller out of the picture all together (as everyone said to do in the first place  )

, EWG spring is 10psi, and 10psi holds solid, no creep and no hesitation

 

With the stock boost controller plumbd in the EWG sounded like it was pulsing during boost, asthough the factory solenoid was too weak to open it fully

 

Thanks to all for the support, should have listened in the first place