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BG5 GTB Camber


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Just wanting to know if anyone can tell me how many degrees of negative camber you can get out of a BG5 GTB? Whiteline have a recommended setup to get the most out of the parts I'm putting in but no too sure if I'll need camber bolts or not.

Cheers fella's

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Im pretty sure there is no camber adjustment in the rear and about 1 degree in the front.

All cars are abit different - build differences / quality etc

So your probably going to need camber bolts

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Qwerty's on the money, no adjustment in the back, and about -1º up front. That's what i run, it's fine for day to day use. Car handled bloody mint for something that was essentially a stock station wagon. Now with the strut braces and alloy arms, it's even better. Every little bit counts eh.

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 ReubenH said:

Qwerty's on the money, no adjustment in the back, and about -1º up front. That's what i run, it's fine for day to day use. Car handled bloody mint for something that was essentially a stock station wagon. Now with the strut braces and alloy arms, it's even better. Every little bit counts eh.

Well I've ordered a 22mm rear sway bar and antilfit kit for up the front, Whiteline reckon to get the best out of the bar I need about 1.25 or more of neg camber at the rear so looks like I'll have to get the bolts now too lol

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 Hailz']

[quote name='ReubenH said:

Qwerty's on the money, no adjustment in the back, and about -1º up front. That's what i run, it's fine for day to day use. Car handled bloody mint for something that was essentially a stock station wagon. Now with the strut braces and alloy arms, it's even better. Every little bit counts eh.

/quote]

Well I've ordered a 22mm rear sway bar and antilfit kit for up the front, Whiteline reckon to get the best out of the bar I need about 1.25 or more of neg camber at the rear so looks like I'll have to get the bolts now too lol

nah bullshit..

put the rear bar in and it will make a heap of diff with out camberbolts.. they just want your money

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Camber bolts are good and give good gains.

Your going to get dynamic camber gains anyways from the stiffer rear anti roll bar. So you don't need to do the camber bolts.

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how do they work (just used trademe for a picture of what they look like), i dont remember seeing anything like them when i was changing my rear shocks, or can i not use them?

-smurff

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yer you have "normal" bolts in the rear... both top and bottom.

the fronts top bolt allows you to roll the hub over slighty..

Thus i have two camberbolts from the "fronts" of the RS i parted..

so someone can put them in the rear... they both straight in :)

who wants em?

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 newsuba']

744_large.jpg

isnt that fancy :)

[quote name='funkytown said:

yer you have "normal" bolts in the rear... both top and bottom.

the fronts top bolt allows you to roll the hub over slighty..

Thus i have two b]camber[/b]bolts from the "fronts" of the RS i parted..

so someone can put them in the rear... they both straight in :)

who wants em?

i would but im broke, so not me lol

-smurff

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 funkytown said:

yer you have "normal" bolts in the rear... both top and bottom.

the fronts top bolt allows you to roll the hub over slighty..

Thus i have two camberbolts from the "fronts" of the RS i parted..

so someone can put them in the rear... they both straight in :)

who wants em?

Are they the factory bolts, or aftermarket ones like Mike pictured above???

Cos if they are the factory front camber bolts, they wont fit in the rear - they are too fat.

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 Tony']

[quote name='funkytown said:

yer you have "normal" bolts in the rear... both top and bottom.

the fronts top bolt allows you to roll the hub over slighty..

Thus i have two b]camber[/b]bolts from the "fronts" of the RS i parted..

so someone can put them in the rear... they both straight in :)

who wants em?

Are they the factory bolts, or aftermarket ones like Mike pictured above???

Cos if they are the factory front camber bolts, they wont fit in the rear - they are too fat.

really.. all 8 i took out looked the same in size... (they are factory ones)

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 funkytown said:

really.. all 8 i took out looked the same in size... (they are factory ones)

Yeah, the threaded ends will be the same on all of them (same pitch & size etc), but the actual camber bolt has the cam eccentric "hump" in the middle, and the front hub top hole is larger to allow for the cam to move and give adjustment.

The rears are just straight bolts, and the holes in the rear hubs are not big enough to fit the front (factory) camber bolts... BUT, you can get a die grinder and make them work - and they are far chunkier & stronger than the aftermarket camber bolts which you can buy.

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 ReubenH said:

Let me know how it goes. I'd be keen to do that to mine if it works out.

At this stage i'm waiting to find a 24mm adjustable swaybar. Whiteline don't do em though.

Will do man, I've also got solid end links for front and rear too so it should tighten up the old girl no end!! 22mm was the biggest I could fing for the BG, I done a fair bit of research into it and spoke to MRT performance in Auzzie and they reckon those few mods with the ALK are the best value for money things you can do.

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