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If you were going to run any equipment that Subaru didn't originally put on a car somewhat similar to yours. Basically, if you deviated sufficiently far from the factory specification that you needed to tune it. But you're not going to get reliability at anything beyond the power levels some or another factory Subaru was capable of, so there's not much point going beyond factory spec (even if that's the "ultimate" factory spec of VF22/23/30/34 with 440cc injectors). There's so much you would need to change to go reliably beyond about 300 crank horsepower (starting with the block) that, unless you're going to change all of those things, you may as well just run a factory ECU.

Could this be the WRX Hatch making a comeback? I would be so thrilled to see it make a return. Looks pretty cool too. They also have an off road version which is kinda like the gravel express or XV imprezas

Fit a vf30 as a replacement to the old blown vf24, changed TPS due to a dead spot in the revs, fit the exhaust and took it for a drive around the yard at work. Now to figure out the boost controller issue (just running wastegate pressure so power is very linear) maybe put a fuel pump in it any suggestions on pumps? and take it for a wheel alignment then stick it in the shed to wait for a tune

Actually top one looks like a mutant Mazda CX-5

Blue thins looks horrific but the silver one looks not as bad. why dont they make more of these

It honestly looks SUV sized. Like maybe, but it seems to be too large for a WRX Hatch Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

In short, I did a thing and Bought @Furze car, CHOPDU. It's been sitting for a while, unfortunately, as it's had a few electrical issues and as such projects need to move on. SO! It's going to get stripped and parted. While I'm certain I could fix it and get it back up and running in no-time, I don't have the funds to keep it (which I very much so want to). So, as such, I'm picking it up this weekend and next week I'll begin the process of take all the parts off it to get ready for sale. There are a few goodies I'll be taking my way and with that the RA gets an upgrade! Things to change over are - v7 STi 207 w/ Supertech dual valve springs - Spec C intake manifold (no TGVs!!) - Murch HX35 turbo setup - MCA Red custom valved suspension - 114.3 hubs (swapping these as they were recently replaced with new bearings on all corners) - Dixcel Z Type Pads (F/R) and Dixcel slotted rotors (F/R) - Oil catch tank setup Everything else is going and I'll have a TON of work to do.

What sorts of things would make a link g4+ or haltech worth it? 20 or so other things needing upgrade and no significant increase after spending 2.5k? All very good information! Surprised that no one really recommends an electronic boost controller, but suppose that's redundant as sti upgrade is there.

While I don't disagree with you, because honestly, the money factor you're spot on. I can't say I completely agree with the statement either? There is most certainly bonuses to going either route. There is however, downsides to them both as well. Cost is certainly the top factor. So lets start here. Stock STi upgrade. The good: Good well rounded package that gives you extra punch at quite a reasonable price. simple upgrade route. other than bolting/plugging in what you've been given, that is it. Hard to stuff up. The not so good: you are talking about old injectors, and old ECU tech. My suggestion if you want to go this route is to make sure everything is cleaned and tested, for example. Have the injectors cleaned and flow tested, and make sure the ECU you're buying HASN'T been opened (theres a factory seal on em). Wouldn't be the first time someones tried to hock off a faulty ECU because they didn't know what blew up their engine, so parted out. G4+ upgrade route The good: you can get plug-in ECU for your gen car! Makes putting in an ECU very very easy. There are also second hand ones coming up for sale all the time. Often in the $800 ballpark, so try not to pay more than this if you're buying second hand. They also have lifetime warranty. It opens up aftermarket parts for your car that simply put, the factory ECU cannot handle. ECU controlled widebands, Flex fuel, better knock control, anti-lag /2 step / launch control / automatic DCCD control / logging You want extra sensors? You can add them. You want an AVCS engine from GRB? You can do it (with doing some wiring of course) Downsides. Brand new it's much more expensive than the cheaper STi upgrades. Plus the factor of professional tuning. Theres no doubt what Boon has said is right. You will need to get the car tuned, be it by someone like @Pappu1 or @SAS OR if you're quite savvy and have patience to learn how to tune yourself, properly, you could buy a course package from the likes of HP Academy, where you'll learn the ins and outs of tuning. Then you can tune that puppy all by yourself. Summary: You need to think intensely about if you want to do more things in the future or just keep the car as is. If you want to do things the stock (or STi) ECU can't handle, then honestly a Link or Haltech may be your best move long term. If you just want to give it a freshen up and some more punch, then the STi upgrades are definitely a winner. Regardless, if you do the STi upgrade and then decide 'hey I want more' theres absolutely nothing stopping you from getting that Link anyway and still getting more power than you would've originally.

God, where do i start? Tuesday finished work at lunch, parked the car in the empty bay at work and tore the entire front end of the B4 apart, engine, gearbox, front subframe, arms, everything, all out. It took all Wednesday and Thursday swapping over whatever i needed from the Rev D motor to my Rev B motor from my old Legacy while also doing an ST conversion. Worked Friday so no work done on car. Saturday was 2 trips to Te Puke (Roughy an hour from me) to visit Jeremy from Subiedoo Spares to get bits. got the new front subframe all put back together and put engine and gearbox onto it. This morning slid the drivetrain under and lifted into place. fit everything. fit rev D intake and basically got the car running. Runs pretty badly because the top mount isnt on i havent sorted a couple vac lines but runs. Found everything different between the rev B and D bolt ons. Honestly didn't realise how much was actually different between the two engines and if i didnt have some parts already as well as the motor that came out to steal hoses and sensors from this wouldn't have been possible. @A_J_T I cant thank you enough. You've been great dealing with my random texts to explain the ST swap to me. I definitely owe you a beer. Car currently only has a down pipe on and sounds absolutely vicious but cant go on the road till the exhaust, top mount and brakes are sorted so at work it stays. 10/10 would not recommend with the time constraints i had and the fact that work had to be delayed on the car because i couldn't get some parts due to public holidays. However 10/10 would do again. It was fun.

Merry Christmas to you too! My spoolie boy is quiet and easy to forget so I should be fine On a more "what I did to my car today" note; I noticed my headlights looked dull in the horn photos, so polished them to be clear. Didnt realise how bad they were til you've done the first one and you're standing there comparing them

One of the most popular threads so smashing this in here. Many of you will be finishing up work and getting ready to kick back and spend time with friends and family. Remember to take it easy out there on the roads team, think twice when you are stuck behind a camper and eager to bring that spoolie boi online to pull a savage overtake. Its better to arrive late than dead on time. sit back, take a couple breaths and enjoy the ride and look out for one another. Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Wait til you see how people put front mounts in front of the Rad it’s gonna blow your mind

The way I looked at is that there are much higher strung cars then mine, in much warmer countries running them and they're fine. Also most modern cars take the bulk of their air flow through the vent below the numberplate. Also they are spaced about an inch away from the radiator, and that should allow air to flow around them rather then stopping flow completely. Having them out in the open does make a difference. Stock my car has shell horns which normally would be quite loud, but they're hidden down in the wheel well behind the bumper.

Gave it a wax. Came up real nice Need to sort that paint damage at rear wheel though