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Running in


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Hi guys,have done a search but coudlnt seam to find this covered, my engine will be going by the end of this week after a complete rebuild, what are your thoughts on the best way to run the engine in, in terms of revs,kms etc

cheers

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Yeah nice information Lou. Thats soo helpful.

Jords, there's a couple of different schools of thought on running in. I prefer putting running in oil in it, unplugging the crank sensor and taking sparkplugs out and cranking over until its got oil pressure, then putting it back together and basically slowly driving it until it gets warm (I don't like idling to warm up, especially for running in).

For the first ~500kms you want to keep the revs low, the boost low and never run at a constant rpm for long periods of time. I head out into the country and accelerate up through the gears then decelerate, then accelerate up through the gears again.

After 500kms, change the oil and either do another 500kms on running in oil and continue running in for another 500kms, or just put normal oil in it and start playing with boost/revs once its warm.

I also like to get as much of the first 500kms done in a single outing as possible so its not having to go through too many cold starts.

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 Koom said:

Yeah nice information Lou. Thats soo helpful.

It doesnt take an genius to realise I wasnt serious. Rainy day off work so I at the computer trying to entertain my self.

Also, subscribing as this is something i will be doing soon.

2 Things however, isnt cranking the engine with out fuel and spark something your are always meant to do on a fresh engine?

And also when you say running in oil, is there actualy a specific oil for this process?

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 wrx_lou said:

2 Things however, isnt cranking the engine with out fuel and spark something your are always meant to do on a fresh engine?

And also when you say running in oil, is there actualy a specific oil for this process?

Yes the cranking over part is the same for the thrash it from new theory and the slow run in theory as far as I know.

Yes there is a specific running in oil, I just use Elf or Valvoline as its cheap and all does pretty much the same job for running in. Its just a plain mineral oil which is another reason to not run much boost while its in the engine as the heat will break it down very quickly.

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Yup most oil Manufactures produce a "running in" Oil and it is usually branded as such

Usually a single weight approx 30 weight

When running in engines there is 2 schools of thought :) (as always)

one is as mentioned

the other is drive it like u usually do as long as it not full on thrashing the crap outta it :)

I Personally usually drive it,tenderly until the first oil change then put normal oil in it and then drive normally but then these are usually diesel engines and I have built them myself :)

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Agree with Koom's technique.

Just had an engine built, and have been researching Subaru specific running in methods.

It's the initial 100kms that counts, To bed the rings in.

If this is not done properly then oil usage will be high, the engine needs to be loaded at various rpm.

After this the engine can be driven normally with a lower rev limit, for about 1000kms.

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Guest lan_killa

its the first outing that is vital... dont nana it or cruise at a constant speed as the rings will just be going along for the ride.

Accelerating and decelerating is the key.

Ive used this as a guide in the past:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

seems to have given me good results, but I would take everything he says with a grain of salt

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 lan_killa said:

its the first outing that is vital from the very moment that you first start it up dont idle it, nana it or cruise at a constant speed as the rings will just be going along for the ride right when they need to be bedding in.

Just emphasizing the point.

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 Jords said:

all good info,thanks guys.Koom why do you unplug the crank sensor while you get oil pressure?

If you unplug the crank (or cam) sensor, the ECU won't send a signal to the injectors so you don't fill the cylinders with petrol.

Taking the sparkplugs out allows the engine to spin much faster and get pressure up sooner without the added compression forces on the partially oiled bearings.

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 Koom']

[quote name='Jords said:

all good info,thanks guys.Koom why do you unplug the crank sensor while you get oil pressure?

/quote]

If you unplug the crank (or cam) sensor, the ECU won't send a signal to the injectors so you don't fill the cylinders with petrol.

Taking the sparkplugs out allows the engine to spin much faster and get pressure up sooner without the added compression forces on the partially oiled bearings.

Awesome, all makes sense thanks

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  • 3 weeks later...

So I have done about 100 kms on the rebuilt engine, but im not liking the running in oil very much :-\ .

Its quite thin and when the engine gets heat into it one of the heads its making a bit of noise as I have only reco'ed the shortblock. I have also been told that running in oil can be quite bad for Turbo's, whats yor thoughts on how long to run the running in oil for and what to use for my first oil change, im thinking 15w40

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Im just put my rebuilt motor back in and should have it running in a few days. Was going to nana it as much as i could for the first 1000km as this is what the engine rebuilders told me to do. The MOTOMANs running in process is the complete opposite, is it true that you should go out and give it shit straight away after its warm? I really don't know what to beleive now. I definatly DO NOT want have to rebuild again, so have you guys used his method of running in with good results? if so i will be using his method rather then the nana method.

thanks

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Frankly I trust that method about as much as motor up and fuelstar products ;)

I wouldn't want to go getting lots of heat into an engine that has running in oil in it. And I wouldn't want to run in an engine that hasn't got running in oil in it. So in that case, I'm left with the option of minimal boost, no constant revs, and mild running. But thats only my choice.

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I just got mine back last friday..Went up to taihape on saturday..then went to palmy on monday.

No clue what oil was in it . my mechanic put it all in. dont think its this running in oil though..he said just dont give it sh** but dont stay at constant revs for too long change down every now and then get the revs up a bit but he said not to goo over 5k and not to labour it up hills and not to leave it at idle for to long.

Just treat it right pretty much. Did 1200k in mine over last weekend and it sounds perfect. First 100k are most crucial.

Hope this helped..:)

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 lan_killa said:

its the first outing that is vital... dont nana it or cruise at a constant speed as the rings will just be going along for the ride.

Accelerating and decelerating is the key.

Ive used this as a guide in the past:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

seems to have given me good results, but I would take everything he says with a grain of salt

that the way I did it. Just drive like it's done 50000k's

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  • 1 month later...
Guest vf20/21bg5

ive run in alot of engines in my time and as its said b4 in this thread that the 1st 1-200kms are most important for ring bedding and fluctuations in rev's is keyby loading it up a little thn slowing and takng of again in nice gental bursts....normal around town driving is ok as iis start stoppin on an open rd......lol back in the day with older engines we had too run thm in for 10,000kms b4 we could give thm s**t ,oh how things have changed

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  • 2 years later...

I\'m running mine in at the moment too.

It\'s done a little under 200km so far.

Wasn\'t really given a super clear cut way to do it so I\'ve just been driving it more or less normally with a max of 4k RPM.

Had to go up a couple of hills under some load but was only at around 3k RPM 1/4 throttle.

Hopefully it\'s running in properly :/

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