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cambelt 99 B4 RSK How to


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Hi all, well we did a cambelt change on our trusty 1999 B4 rsk this week, thank you to Sam (Spanku) for you help and advice, you made the job so much easier and pleasant. we learned lots of tips and tricks and I hope he see's this and add's his own words.

right off we go.

our beloved 1999 B4 rsk

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to start with its pretty straight forward, remove the fans first. there are 2 bolts that hold the radiator in place (on top 12mm) and then 6 bolts to loosen the fans (horizontal 10mm).

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DO NOT use the radiator pit-cock to drain the fluid, its very brittle, loosen the lower radiator hose and let it drain into a bucket.

you will need to loosed the alternator tensioner and remove the belts, pretty straight forward.

once you have all those out its time to loosen some big stuff.

there is a must have tool that we were lucky enough ( thanks stoffa) to be able to borrow, get one or borrow one if you are planning on doing the job your self. it holds the crank in place while you loosen the bolt.

like so 22 mm I think for the crank bolt.

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one crank bolt

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then start to take off the cam belt covers, 10mm bolts, there are 2 different kind, there are 4 or 5 that go to the center cover that are "sleeved" be sure you put them back in the right place (its not hard to mix them up the cam cover holes are bigger on the center piece to accommodate the sleeved bolts.

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now that you have every thing exposed you can start to remove rollers and tensions and ider cams

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the first thing you take off is the tensioner.

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cam belt removed

there are 2 cam belt guides that keep the cam belt from skipping teeth on of the far right and one on the far left, I forgot to take pics, sorry :-\

tip use a piece of card board when you put them back on to maintain a 1mm gap between the belt and the guide

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you really should replace the water pump as well when doing this.

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gently rock back and forth and maybe tap with a rubber hammer, do NOT pry against the block with anything sharp

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thermostat replacement, remember which way the thermostat was facing, pointed end out towards you and little coolent feed hole at the top.

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clean everything really well, scrap off old gasket but be very careful not to scratch or dig into the housings or block.

we replaced the oil pump seals as well, we have a pick to do this with I suggest you get one, the oil pump was pretty stright forward, like the water pump, take your time and wiggle it and tap it.

new oil pump seals, inside and out, we used red rtv silicone

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ah shiny bits ;D new water pump

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new upper and lower radiator flextech hoses ;D

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cleaned oil pump and let dry or if you have a compressor you can spray it dry

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new gasket seal on the oil pump, it does NOT need to be think, push it around the oil pump with you finger.

Important let the gasket seal sit and settle for 5 minutes dont just slap it on, you will not get a good seal.

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new water pump on

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all new rollers and idler in place (12mm bolts I think) very straight forward

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right.. you see this granade pin on the tensioner?

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DO NOT I repeat DO NOT REMOVE IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.........more about this later

now that all the new shiny bits are on its time for the cambelt

see the markings, this is important, these line up with markings on the new belt, there are 5 of them, one on each cam and the crank cam, pics don't show how to position belt (it's trade mark) lol but first you line crank mark (dotted line on cambelt) then line passenger side bank top and side (check with mirror), go round to another bank (dont worry about lower idler yet) and line drivers bank side and top with marking on belt. Rumour said they may be half tooth out, but ours lined up ( aftr some interigation) perfectly), then pull belt over lower idler, check again. Then start the car briefly (with granade pin still in place), if it starts- good! We removed AFM but I suggest you keep it in place for computer. Our car started but was very rough cos no AFM. Pull the grenade pin then and start briefly the car. Stop after 5 sec.

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new belt in place.

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here is that trick to keep the guides at the right distance

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covers back on

all this is pretty straight forward, take you time and be patient.

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time to bleed the coolant system

this is a long process, but be patient. Takes about 45 min to fully bleed Subaru.

slowly fill the coolant system until you can put any more in with the car not running, this will take a while and there will be lots of gurgling and bubbles, once the car cant take any more, then start the car and you will add more water as the level goes down, once the thermostat opens you should see a big drop in the water level, just keep topping it up until all the bubbling stops.

the reward

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  • 3 months later...

Good article but you should never start the engine with out cam belt tension. Fit the belt, pull the pin and turn the engine over 360o by hand. Recheck your marks and belt tension.

Also i recomend setting the engine to the timing marks before removing the belt. I use some twink and put my own marks on the pulleys and on the pulleys to the belt with the direction of rotation. You can transfer these across to the new belt which gaurentes you have the timing in the right place and allows you check to make sure you have the correct belt (number of teeth).

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  • 11 months later...
  • 2 months later...

just did my 2002 blitzen today. iam an ex-mechanic so only had to pay for the parts.

cambelt kit has a retail of $789! cost me $550 through trade price.

you mention that there was 2 cambelt guides which aid assembly by holding the belt to the cam pulley's.

on my one there was 3, 2 on the left side and 1 lower right cam.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
 kiwisurf said:

Good article but you should never start the engine with out cam belt tension. Fit the belt, pull the pin and turn the engine over 360o by hand. Recheck your marks and belt tension.

Also i recomend setting the engine to the timing marks before removing the belt. I use some twink and put my own marks on the pulleys and on the pulleys to the belt with the direction of rotation. You can transfer these across to the new belt which gaurentes you have the timing in the right place and allows you check to make sure you have the correct belt (number of teeth).

Did my Manual RSK on the weekend - a lot easier than I thought it would be - especially after taking the radiator out (only hassle was the 2 bolts holding the radiator snapped as I tried to loosen them so had to drill them out etc.)

The belt had all the marks, so I just lined the belt marks up with the marks on the pulleys, and all good... seriously easy.

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