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first subaru, need help


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Hey

I just sold my Rb20det skyline and bought a manual 1998 Subaru wrx, it has a Ej20k, Front mount intercooler, vf-22 turbo, adjustable suspention, 3 Inch exhaust,carbonfibre intake with podfilter and runs 15psi.

my problem is that after lots of 15psi boosting the engine light comes on and it wont rev past 4500rpm( to fix previous owner said disconnect battery for 5min so basically reset Ecu). Ive talked to some friends and they say that its just the AFM not happy with the bigger turbo and the increase in boost, so just needs a tune/chip. i am just wondering if any one has had/fixed this issue before.

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 JoKer said:

95 fuel? might be knock sensor gone wild

check codes and start from there - they may be residual in the ECU memory after the event so odds are good they are stored

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=59.0

how do i check codes and yes 95 fuel. it also idles funny at lights and stalls afta boosting and stooping which is what skylines do when you do the t3/t4 upgrade without chipping ecu.

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Post up what codes your getting,

Also i wonder what ecu your running? Im guessing your car used to be standard WRX, but has some sti bits in it.

What colour is the sticker on the AFM, and what colour injectors do you have?

an STi shud have yellow (440cc) injectors, Orange AFM, and a VF23 or 22 for that year. and the STI ecu of course. Can you look in the passnger foot well and post up what the numbers on the ecu are as well.

Normal wrx has grey injectors and Green afm and a TD-04.

Might be just code related, but if you answer the other q's can check you have all the right running gear in your car.

 kwp009 said:

how do i check codes and yes 95 fuel.

i bet 95 fuel aint helping - stick with 98.

Look here for how to check codes - http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=59.0

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my guess about the stalling after boosting would be he is running a vent to air BOV and not a plumb back...

plumb it back an it will be sorted...

get rid of the pod filter as it will damage the airflow meter(quessing it is an oiltype)

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 funkytown']

Post up what codes your getting,

Also i wonder what ecu your running? Im guessing your car used to be standard WRX, but has some sti bits in it.

What colour is the sticker on the AFM, and what colour injectors do you have?

an STi shud have yellow (440cc) injectors, Orange AFM, and a VF23 or 22 for that year. and the STI ecu of course. Can you look in the passnger foot well and post up what the numbers on the ecu are as well.

Normal wrx has grey injectors and Green afm and a TD-04.

Might be just code related, but if you answer the other q's can check you have all the right running gear in your car.

[quote name='kwp009 said:

how do i check codes and yes 95 fuel.

/quote]

i bet 95 fuel aint helping - stick with 98.

Look here for how to check codes - http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=59.0

thanks the car does have lots of sti bits, Afm is orange, injectors are yellow and nt sure on ecu.

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 DRFVDR said:

my guess about the stalling after boosting would be he is running a vent to air BOV and not a plumb back...

plumb it back an it will be sorted...

get rid of the pod filter as it will damage the airflow meter(quessing it is an oiltype)

Thanks i have pod filter but cant put factory air box back in as front mount intercooler piping is in the way, yes i do have a turbosmart vent to air bov.

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1997-99 WRX (Jap import sedan model only, non sti) comes with VF22, orange AFM, Yellow Injectors.. as standard.. however the ECU on mine says IS or 1S.. so its not the same ECU as the STI.

Standard this model isn't far off a Version 3 STi and still has a 280PS/6500RPM power rating. but its got no Forged Pistons like STI model. they are Molybdenum coated low-friction pistons only..

i friend of mine that lives in Japan and speaks /reads Japanese well found out the specs for me.

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yep wrx with vf22 is most likely to be as Graphite described.

what is probably happening is limp mode from too much knock, change to 98, and maybe check your fuel filter is not too old and harming fuel pressure.

if your still having problems try borrowing someones working orange AFM .

you might have to reduce boost with a boost tap.

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 funkytown said:

so what codes are you getting?

ecu - remove the passenger side foot plate and you'll see the ecu, on it will have something like 6S or 8S.. post up

ecu is a 6s, i think im getting code 32 which is oxygen sensor. as i dont have factory airbox i cant plug this oxygen secsor into air box so it is sitting just above pod filter.

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that ecu is the same as i what i had pre - link. Came out on the Version 3 STI Jap imports, maybe also the version 4.

What are the sequence of long and short lights?

[edit]: I think Oxygen sensor is on the down pipe side not the intake side. It shud measure the o2 content on the exhaust gases and alter the combustion accordingly. (i think). Back with research shortly

back: yes almost certain the o2 sensor is on the header/uppipe or down pipe (at the top just off the turbo) and looks similar to

pic4.jpg

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 funkytown said:

that ecu is the same as i what i had pre - link. Came out on the Version 3 STI Jap imports, maybe also the version 4. [its a V3 STI ecu, V4 is different]

What are the sequence of long and short lights?

[edit]: I think Oxygen sensor is on the down pipe side not the intake side. It shud measure the o2 content on the exhaust gases and alter the combustion accordingly. (i think). Back with research shortly

back: yes almost certain the o2 sensor is on the header/uppipe or down pipe (at the top just off the turbo) and looks similar to [o2 sensor is on the downpipe just after the turbo. the sensor by the airbox is called a AFM Air Flow Meter. Your o2 sensor may be faulty and cause a poor idle or cruise but shouldn't be causing your limp mode]

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 kamineko']

[quote name='funkytown said:

that ecu is the same as i what i had pre - link. Came out on the Version 3 STI Jap imports, maybe also the version 4. color=red] [its a V3 STI ecu, V4 is different][/color]

What are the sequence of long and short lights?

[edit]: I think Oxygen sensor is on the down pipe side not the intake side. It shud measure the o2 content on the exhaust gases and alter the combustion accordingly. (i think). Back with research shortly

back: yes almost certain the o2 sensor is on the header/uppipe or down pipe (at the top just off the turbo) and looks similar to [o2 sensor is on the downpipe just after the turbo. the sensor by the airbox is called a AFM Air Flow Meter. Your o2 sensor may be faulty and cause a poor idle or cruise but shouldn't be causing your limp mode]

i have found the problem. the code i was getting was 33 (3 long and 3 short flashes) this code is the speed sensor. My Wrx had a new gearbox put in 2 owners ago and the bundy didn't put the spedo cable in lol, so when i do lots of boosting i think the ecu is getting confused as its hitting 15psi boost but does not no that its moving.

my next question to you guys is how much is it going to cost me to get water pump done? as i think the coolant leek under the car is coming from the seal around the water pump.

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 kwp009']

[quote name='funkytown said:

that ecu is the same as i what i had pre - link. Came out on the Version 3 STI Jap imports, maybe also the version 4. color=red] [its a V3 STI ecu, V4 is different][/color]

What are the sequence of long and short lights?

[edit]: I think Oxygen sensor is on the down pipe side not the intake side. It shud measure the o2 content on the exhaust gases and alter the combustion accordingly. (i think). Back with research shortly

back: yes almost certain the o2 sensor is on the header/uppipe or down pipe (at the top just off the turbo) and looks similar to [o2 sensor is on the downpipe just after the turbo. the sensor by the airbox is called a AFM Air Flow Meter. Your o2 sensor may be faulty and cause a poor idle or cruise but shouldn't be causing your limp mode]

i have found the problem. the code i was getting was 33 (3 long and 3 short flashes) this code is the speed sensor. My Wrx had a new gearbox put in 2 owners ago and the bundy didn't put the spedo cable in lol, so when i do lots of boosting i think the ecu is getting confused as its hitting 15psi boost but does not no that its moving.

my next question to you guys is how much is it going to cost me to get water pump done? as i think the coolant leek under the car is coming from the seal around the water pump.

Water pump could be up around the $1000 mark...

only because u should change,cambelts,idlers,tensioners,cam seals,front main crankseal and maybe oil pump oring....

While u are in there it still surprises me how many people only do a set of cambelts and dont even think of doing the waterpump while they in there,I do this as par for the course

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