V3 WRX engine cuts out...

[CMPLSV]

Hi all,

Driving 2 CS meet last night, and my v3 wrx engine just cut out... It just winds over n over and never starts...

WRXONP came and checked it out, we replaced a blown fuse under steering column and it started first pop - turned it on n off afew times then again no starting... New fuse is fine. When it was running with new fuse, engine sounded fine then revs dropped really low, and everything cut out again

The AA guy that came 2 check, said there was no spark in the engine when he checked it.

Its now sitting in my mums mechanics car park, waiting 2 b looked it.

Anyone else had similar issue? /will post up when i hear from mechanic...

Thanx heaps to H8RSH8, WRXONP, MELZ 4 coming 2 my rescue!!

[Guest]

what fuse did you pop in the start?do you know?

[funkytown]

fusable link in the main fuse box in the engine bay..

doesnt mean the main fault will be fixed.. sounds like you have a short somewhere

[Guest]

fuse under steering column sounds like possible alarm wiring? or was it in the interior fuse block?

[CMPLSV]

In fuse block on drivers side, im not sure what fuse it was, ill check with brad.

Brad checked all the fuses and the rest were fine, including engine bay ones... Then the AA guy did the same thing and said they were all fine...

I know nothing abt this kinda stuff hahahaha

[Guest]

sounds like a short somewhere, replacing the fuse (hopefully with the same rating) may have allowed the wiring issue to open circuit

Either way you had to replace the fuse to find out

good luck at ya mechanix

[CMPLSV]

Replaced fuse with identical one... Ran for 5 mins then wouldnt start again.

-will keep this thread updated :-)

[CMPLSV]

Brad said Ecu fuse on drivers side fuse block?

[xxMELZxx]

Yea he said ECU fuse as when the fuse was blown no check engine light was coming up and the ecu wasn't on then once he replaced the fuse the check engine light came on and so did the ecu.

It came up with various fault codes and then the car started to run really really rough and then brad said the fuel pump cut out and you heard a pop of the fuse blowing again..

I hope it will be an easy fix becca.. Fingers crossed -

[CMPLSV]

I never herd the car running rough?

[xxMELZxx]

You were on the phone to the AA at the time.. You could hear the idle drop really low and it wasn't sounding healthy then it cut out

[CMPLSV]

Hmm ok my first post needs 2 b edited then

[Timmah]

What the last things you've done to your car in the last few days??

[Guest]

mayb has something to do with the new spotlight and headlight you added for 'winter'??

[CMPLSV]

Havnt done anything really in the last few days - exept replace a broken indicator in front drivers guard - the clips were broken and it kept falling out so i put factory orange ones back in...

O and i cleaned out the inside, and filled it 3/4s full of gas (normally its just over a 1/4)

[DRFVDR]

I would say that either a/u have got a wire rubbing some where and it has rubbed thru or b/ your ECU has an internal short either can be time consuming...

I hope u sort out the issue soonish

[CMPLSV]

thanks

[madmike]

I had a very similar issue to this that caused mine to blow fuses and fuseable links at MM2011...

Now bare with me as i have a short attention span i will try and tell you what the fix was.

It turned out it was a wiring fault. and i fixed it by taking out the fuse and installing my Ammeter with an in-line fuse attached.

Once i had done this i was able to trace the fault to a rubbing wire in the main loom that goes to the....

Oh Look... A Rabbit!!!!! They are so cute...... I like rabbit stew... MMMM Feeling hungry now....

[CMPLSV]

Was 2 perished wires rubbing together right up under dash on drivers side... All fixed.

$250

[madmike]

See.... i told you it was a wireing fault in the main loom for the......

Oh look!! Another rabbit!

[spark_38]

Perished wires? The rabbits must have knawed at them...

If it's the main loom to those relay thingys bolted to the thingy above the drivers kickpanels. There are 3 or so relays on that plate, fuel pump relay, starter relay, and another one...it's blimming annoying to remove the 8mm/No.2 philips securing bolt holding the plate in anyway, which you need to do to troubleshoot them.

It's kinda odd that the wires would perish there, usually the ones in the engine bay go first - more specifically the ones in the manifold loom seem to harden & perish due to the heat.

[kamineko]

thread purged. resonable and polite debate is fine however this is a tech thread.

tech talk in tech threads please

also note the usefulness of this thread. it has a problem, some discussion, and a result. exactly what the next poor bugger with a wiring fault is looking for.

[WRXONP]

lol ok story a bit different on here but here we go. i got there and checked fuses in engine bay box . all where fine . checked dash lights. no check engine light. checked fuses in drivers foot well. couldn't tell what is what as its in chinglesh. tried fault diagnosis connectors while waiting for new fuse. no light. replaced fuse and turned key. fuel pump primed and check engine worked. so the ecu fuse was blown . checked codes. had 6 codes come up. started engine. ran fine. then fuel pump turned off and started running rough and low revs.then fuse popped and engine cut out as ecu turned off. i said that the ecu is drawing too much current and it has a wiring fault which is causing the fuse to blow. and the wiring fault is causing the fault code. and it was a wiring fault. just saying this so if people have some thing like this happen in the future they know where to look. no check light means ecu isn't going or the bulb is pulled out by some back yard gangster ! !

[spark_38]

I suspect those 'perished' wires were the fuel pump feed wires shorting out?

It is quite common practise (over 95% of cases) to use the fuel pump feed wire as one of the alarm immobilsers, the other being either starter or ignition cut. Simply because of convenicence. As the fuel pump wires are thicker, poor soldering and/or insulation afterwards could have resulted in bare wires being prone to shorting against the chassis...

As generally they are thicker than the other wires, and carry more current over their usual ~4A.