Wide body conversion for GBD Spec C

[AlteredSpecC]

Hey guy's and Girl's.

Been a while since I made a post on CS I have been putting a lot into the build going on at Torque performance over the last few months and it is coming along well, slowly but well which is how we planned it, The mock assembly has been completed and all clearances were spot on, the custom turbo will be ready soon for the final build to commence... What's next on the thought train is body and bracing!

I have been looking at a Wide body conversion kit from ARP Performance in the states, but not sure on the weight of such a kit, don't really wana go slapping a heap of weight on it just for the wide body look, really all I want to achieve is a wider foot print say maybe 9-10' rims? any info you guy's have or Ideas you may have would be really helpful!

[WRXER]

Why not flares

Simple fix

[funkytown]

Talk to bt. hes doing such a thing i believe.

w.r.t v9/10 rims its quite difficult as you will have to do a hub conversion. v8 was the last of 5 x 100 pcd

[rex-leggy]

i love how those bolt on's look!

[BT]

Custom is where it's at... all the widebody kits for GDB's are fugly IMO, and weigh a sh*t tonne!

[AlteredSpecC]

 WRXER said:

Why not flares

Simple fix

Nice one WRXER!

Is that your ride with the mega flares? Looks fat as!

This is the kit I am looking at...

http://aprperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=65&Itemid=44

Cheers.

[AlteredSpecC]

 BT said:

Custom is where it's at... all the widebody kits for GDB's are fugly IMO, and weigh a sh*t tonne!

Hey BT,

Thanks mate, yea I am talking with Michael from Fortyone Performance at the moment about this Kit...

http://aprperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=65&Itemid=44

He has just told me it is made from fiberglass and the weight factor is not really an issue as for the weight gained the traction and control is increased etc...

What do you think of that, i would expect the glass panels would weigh a heap more than the stock alloy yea?

If you dont mind me asking, where are you having your custom wide body work done? I would love to see my Spec C sitting on 18x10 inch rims, do you think it will be necessary to have the Hub conversion done for this?

How is the new Build coming along for you guys?

Cheers,

Troy

[WRXER]

Wish it was my ride haha, but this is the route Im going with my current wrx.

[BT]

 AlteredSpecC']

[quote name='BT said:

Custom is where it's at... all the widebody kits for GDB's are fugly IMO, and weigh a sh*t tonne!

/quote]

Hey BT,

Thanks mate, yea I am talking with Michael from Fortyone Performance at the moment about this Kit...

http://aprperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=65&Itemid=44

He has just told me it is made from fiberglass and the weight factor is not really an issue as for the weight gained the traction and control is increased etc...

What do you think of that, i would expect the glass panels would weigh a heap more than the stock alloy yea?

If you dont mind me asking, where are you having your custom wide body work done? I would love to see my Spec C sitting on 18x10 inch rims, do you think it will be necessary to have the Hub conversion done for this?

How is the new Build coming along for you guys?

Cheers,

Troy

I personally dont like the look of the APR kits, and there is A LOT of work to put them on, not just bolt on... our stuff is some off the shelf, some custom...

You will struggle to get 18 by 10 in 5 x 100, it would be much easier in 5 x 114, but depends if you have already bought suspension, brakes etc... as you need to make sure these are 5 x 114. OR you could run spacer adpators then offset of wheels etc becomes important.

Were trying to work out what were going to do at the moment! Will let you know what happens...

Cheers

BT

[PhatRS]

I did mine with spacers and I didnt find that many more rims to fit in 5x114, sure everything EVO will fit but you still pay through the nose for lightweight wheels (mine weigh a tonne). Most wide 5x114 wheels are staggered for RWD.

The APR kit appears to be the best fit of the american widebody kits, some of them are really cack. Have a think about how you want to fit it too, if you are racing then solely urethaning it on might be best so you can repair and replace easily. Mine is all a custom one off and glassed on and smoothed so if/when I hit it its a lot of work to fix.

[Scoobydoo]

 PhatRS said:

Have a think about how you want to fit it too, if you are racing then solely urethaning it on might be best so you can repair and replace easily. Mine is all a custom one off and glassed on and smoothed so if/when I hit it its a lot of work to fix.

Or if someone else hits it :P

[AlteredSpecC]

 PhatRS said:

I did mine with spacers and I didnt find that many more rims to fit in 5x114, sure everything EVO will fit but you still pay through the nose for lightweight wheels (mine weigh a tonne). Most wide 5x114 wheels are staggered for RWD.

The APR kit appears to be the best fit of the american widebody kits, some of them are really cack. Have a think about how you want to fit it too, if you are racing then solely urethaning it on might be best so you can repair and replace easily. Mine is all a custom one off and glassed on and smoothed so if/when I hit it its a lot of work to fix.

Cheers mate, Yea I have spoken to both David at Torque and Michael at Fortyone, David reckons it is a waste of time doing the stud conversion, no real gains except more wheel options, but as you say most 114.3s are staggered for RWD anyway, best to search out some in 5x100 or custom build them??

As for the kit Michael found out some info from ARP, weighs in at around 47kgs including rear carbon under diffuser, so not to bad, take all the original kit off and I'd probably only gain a few kgs. definitley will have it mounted for easy removal/repair considering I want to get into Track racing.

Cheers for the input!! 8)

[PhatRS]

If you stay 5x100 Rota wheels are your best bet but they are heavy ish, Work and Volk do some for a nice tidy price lol as do Advan I think.

There is an outfit on TM doing undrilled wheels that look very much like work emotions in a matt gunmetal that might be worth a nudge too. They Drill and machine offset to your requirements

 Scoobydoo']

[quote name='PhatRS said:

Have a think about how you want to fit it too, if you are racing then solely urethaning it on might be best so you can repair and replace easily. Mine is all a custom one off and glassed on and smoothed so if/when I hit it its a lot of work to fix.

/quote]

Or if someone else hits it :P

Yeeees been there done that

[BT]

 AlteredSpecC']

[quote name='PhatRS said:

I did mine with spacers and I didnt find that many more rims to fit in 5x114, sure everything EVO will fit but you still pay through the nose for lightweight wheels (mine weigh a tonne). Most wide 5x114 wheels are staggered for RWD.

The APR kit appears to be the best fit of the american widebody kits, some of them are really cack. Have a think about how you want to fit it too, if you are racing then solely urethaning it on might be best so you can repair and replace easily. Mine is all a custom one off and glassed on and smoothed so if/when I hit it its a lot of work to fix.

/quote]

Cheers mate, Yea I have spoken to both David at Torque and Michael at Fortyone, David reckons it is a waste of time doing the stud conversion, no real gains except more wheel options, but as you say most 114.3s are staggered for RWD anyway, best to search out some in 5x100 or custom build them??

As for the kit Michael found out some info from ARP, weighs in at around 47kgs including rear carbon under diffuser, so not to bad, take all the original kit off and I'd probably only gain a few kgs. definitley will have it mounted for easy removal/repair considering I want to get into Track racing.

Cheers for the input!! 8)

No real gains except not having to change wheel bearings!!! Particularly if you are going to track it...

[AlteredSpecC]

Hey BT,

What do you mean, I'm not familiar with any of this, could you shed some light as to why I would go through more wheel bearings running 5 x 100 as apposed to 5 x 114.3?

Cheers,

Troy

[funkytown]

the bearings are bigger = stronger from v9 onwards you need the newer hubs to accommodate the newer bearings.

track work puts a lot more stress on wheel bearings than normal road driving.

[BT]

 AlteredSpecC said:

Hey BT,

What do you mean, I'm not familiar with any of this, could you shed some light as to why I would go through more wheel bearings running 5 x 100 as apposed to 5 x 114.3?

Cheers,

Troy

5 x 100 bearings are crap, and you WILL have to replace them every 3rd meeting or so, particularly if you are running spacers. 5 x 114 bearings are significantly bigger, more durable and easier to replace. Ran 18 months on a set with no issues

If you are interested PM me and I will get you a set cheaper than you will find anywhere in NZ...

Cheers

BT

[funkytown]

is that common across all 5 * 100 hubs or more on the heavier GD chassis?

[BT]

 funkytown said:

is that common across all 5 * 100 hubs or more on the heavier GD chassis?

Yes, but more pronounced on heavier GD, as I say particularly with spacers which put additional stress on them

[AlteredSpecC]

 BT']

[quote name='AlteredSpecC said:

Hey BT,

What do you mean, I'm not familiar with any of this, could you shed some light as to why I would go through more wheel bearings running 5 x 100 as apposed to 5 x 114.3?

Cheers,

Troy

/quote]

5 x 100 bearings are crap, and you WILL have to replace them every 3rd meeting or so, particularly if you are running spacers. 5 x 114 bearings are significantly bigger, more durable and easier to replace. Ran 18 months on a set with no issues

If you are interested PM me and I will get you a set cheaper than you will find anywhere in NZ...

Cheers

BT

Cheers for the info mate, makes sense.

If I was to do the stud conversion wouldn't that mean doing breaks, suspension etc as well?

Kind of becomes pretty expensive if so.

[PhatRS]

Can also get the 5x100 hubs machined out to take an Audi or Nissan bearing which apparently is very good too.

[Tony]

 funkytown said:

is that common across all 5 * 100 hubs or more on the heavier GD chassis?

Still common on GCs, heat from the brakes is another big factor that kills them.

You will know when they are starting to go - usually getting horrible pad knock-off through the esses then you come up to the hairpin and brake pedal goes to the floor!

[funkytown]

probably a total n00b question, but whats pad 'knock off'?

[Scoobydoo]

Cheap asian made break pads

[Tony]

 funkytown said:

probably a total n00b question, but whats pad 'knock off'?

Simple explanation - When the brake disc pushes back against the brake pad which in turn, pushes the brake pistons back into the caliper - caused by play in the wheel bearings and experienced when pushing through corners (Manfeild esses as example) then wanting to slow down afterwards (for the hairpin).

Turning through a sweeping left, then right pushes the pistons back, so when you go to put the brakes on, the pedal is longer than expected - certainly gives you a scare!