gazzy2000

Uniden Car Alarm info + 'howto' on central lock wiring

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hey can anyone tell me if the like of a uniden VS2600XR alrm, are you emant to run a third part actuator for central locking or do you tap into the factory central lock wiring/relays?

(working on a legacy BG5a)

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righto i have found the keyless entry module, its in a quite a hard place to get to.

I have dismantled the box and will start probing with a test light to find where to solder the alarm wires on to.

guess i will have to do a write up as i found feck all on this on the www or here.

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 Dvnt said:

easier to just splice them into the wires going to drivers door isnt it?

i dunno, was fishing for that sort of information.

Took the control unit into my old boss this morning and he showed me what to do. (he used to install for pauls car audio)

so by wiring into the factory C/L unit you retain all the central locking functionality and the new alarm remote lock/unlock function works along side the factory system... with out losing any factory C/L functionality.

thats my take

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Yup thats how it was wired up on the BF,2 wires into the control box, the central locking worked as from factory ie. auto lock above 15 kph , door handle beeper,access via door handle override BUT would lock and unlock with alarm set/unset

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K STEPS ON WIRING THE ALARM INTO THE FACTORY CENTRAL LOCK

Reason for me doing this? coz whoever installed the alarm in my car.. didnt bother wiring in the C/L feature of the alarm

These instructions assume you know what wires to use on your alarm for the central locking, basically on our JDM spec legacys here in NZ you need the two earth pulse wires from your alarm to pulse the factory C/L unit.

Locate and remove the C/L unit. You have to take the glove box out really, incl the support bar.. mainly so you can see where the unit lives. (car is a 94 BG5a legacy). There are some other 10mm screws to take out of the actual dash support in order to make the dash move enough for you to get at the two bottom 10mm screws on the C/L unit bracket. You'll see what i mean :) Its a bit of a nasty to get at!

00k0bd0w.w4d.jpg

Looks like this

aiyb25yg.0zb.jpg

aho41yxo.tp0.jpg

mie0y3ey.130.jpg

Now we need to open the unit up. Lift these tabs up with a screw driver.

bijaortn.fk0.jpg

With the back off and open the unit looks like this

vcsygzqc.dbw.jpg

Now i have found the pins here for you.. i.e. the following two pins are the factory lock/unlock relay pins that we are going to solder onto.

gxfr5awg.syk.jpg

Now drill a hole in the case as shown, run your wires through.. i have used some old yellow airbag wiring and plug.

woaz4awo.ane.jpg

Now strip the wires a little and 'tin' (pre-solder) the wire with solder then solder the wires onto the pins shown on the circuit board, dosent really matter at this point what way round they go.

0clcyfei.qsb.jpg

Now fit the back of the unit (make sure the soldering you did is not so big and bulky that it could touch the case)

4v30ibkw.s2k.jpg

wrap with insulation tape and this part is done

ho5mr4h2.ms1.jpg

will update more tomorrow

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K, its all in and working.. thank fark! really great to have remote central lock again, you dont realize how much you miss it!

Here you can see the old airbag wiring and plug i used, it is run to the drivers side to be wired in to the brain and lock/unlock wires of the alarm. In this pic i had plugged it in to test it.

srpwdfke.dco.jpg

Here is the wireing where i matched the lock and unlock pulse from the alarm wiring with the chirp (lock) and chirp chirp (unlock) of the alarm remote.

If it locks when its meant to unlock... guess what? you have it round the wrong way hurrr LOL. Once you have it right, solder and heat shrink up etc.

updzjeub.1s2.jpg

Mounted in position

25ileemw.uun.jpg

imsl3dbz.2u5.jpg

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 666SubSpeed said:

Is this the same pins to solder into for the BC/BF ?

very very close to being the same, box is in the same place, and if it has the same part number then yup

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I have taken my control box out and had a look at the circuit board and it seems slightly different and this is the only part I have left to do for my alarm to be fully working.

Is it possible to tell me how you found what contacts to solder to or maybe I can post a pic of mine so you can see whats different so I can finish this mission off as this is driving me up the wall and so far this is the most informative thread I have found on the net anywhere.

Any help would be awesome.

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 666SubSpeed said:

I have taken my control box out and had a look at the circuit board and it seems slightly different and this is the only part I have left to do for my alarm to be fully working.

Is it possible to tell me how you found what contacts to solder to or maybe I can post a pic of mine so you can see whats different so I can finish this mission off as this is driving me up the wall and so far this is the most informative thread I have found on the net anywhere.

Any help would be awesome.

on the circuit board side (all the electrical componetry side) there will be/should be what looks like a square black component soldered on to the circuit board, this is the relay. The pins from this black square (relay) are what require the earth signal to trigger the lock/unlock.. very tentively use a test light to find what pins (should be 4 pins intotal at a guess) have 12v.. if no voltage on other pins, they are more than likely the lock/unlock, tentitively touch an earth on to them to see if the click and operate the doors.. if you are lucky your test light will do his when you probe them for power or not.

Failing that, take the box into a reputable car alarm installer and they will show you in 3 seconds flat :)

prolly look like this:

Circuit-Board-Relay-JQC-8F-.jpg

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