Forged engine build

[SubLeggy]

Hi guys,

Well I\'m looking into doing a forged engine build(well known mechanic will build it). Say if I\'m aiming for 250kw.

What parts would be best to go with e.g pistons, injectors, rods, bearings, rough estimate etc etc

I\'m just looking into what people opinions are so I can have a nosey at price of parts and what people recommend.

Car is is 2000 v6 STI RA. so I\'m guessing it just a ej20

[lachlan]

what car etc ? and what block do you currently have ?

find a cdb just coz you can and they are cheap

an you really wont do much better than this

https://www.raceeng.com/p-17607-wiseco-pistons-piston-rod-kits.aspx

unless a local vendor is going to cut you a good deal or can include bearings/ gaskets/ studs for a deal etc

[Guest]

The block is a ej207 got basically the same car, engine is open deck mine was, I would change this for semi closed or closed deck block. Any forged pistons the main ones will do 250 easy, I would stick to Oem bearings. Your choice is infinite 250 kw is not all that much these days.

[SubLeggy]

 ballsrburning said:

The block is a ej207 got basically the same car, engine is open deck mine was, I would change this for semi closed or closed deck block. Any forged pistons the main ones will do 250 easy, I would stick to Oem bearings. Your choice is infinite 250 kw is not all that much these days.

Ahh sweet thanks for that. Wat does infinite mean?

[lunchie]

 SubLeggy']

[quote name='ballsrburning said:

The block is a ej207 got basically the same car, engine is open deck mine was, I would change this for semi closed or closed deck block. Any forged pistons the main ones will do 250 easy, I would stick to Oem bearings. Your choice is infinite 250 kw is not all that much these days.

/quote]

Ahh sweet thanks for that. Wat does infinite mean?

Infinite means endless mate, as in there are endless choices

[Guest]

If youre aiming for 250kw+ atw you will need minimum of bigger/decap injectors and bigger turbo. Possibly silicon intake pipe under mani and 2.5"+ exhaust depending how far you go. Forged bottom end will keep everything inside the block but at 250kw a v7 sti shortie will be fine. Most of all you need a decent tuneable ecu. 200-230kw atw will be easy with your stock setup just need a G4 pretty much. Closed loop is a very awesome thing. Dont forget a walbro for safety and may as well split the rails.

[SubLeggy]

Thanks for the write ups so far guys. Muchly appreciated

[Guest]

Mods so far? and whats your plan street/track/drag car?

[SubLeggy]

 evowrx said:

Mods so far? and whats your plan street/track/drag car?

Car is completely stock apart from some aftermarket mags, and rally side mirrors.

Plan would be to do an odd track meet here and there but other than that just a street really. car is only driven friday-sunday at the moment.

[titian]

Its easy to achieve this 250kw as others have stated. Long term reliability is the key to success though.

Sure this has been covered many times. My link below tells you what I did. 20K required.

Here is another discussion with good facts too.

Have fun, Good luck! http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,37819.0.html

[Guest]

Id go walbro, G4 and decap your injectors with split rail for safety. The difference should be pretty noticeable with 20-50kw atw gain depending on dyno/tuner etc. A baffled sump wouldnt be a silly idea either if doing track work. An exhaust and the forementioned silicon intake pipe might help the power delivery a bit also.

Then while you enjoy this chip away at building a forged bottom end you can bolt your heads too. Then when ready just bolt on bigger turbo along with the new shortie and go 250kw+. Decaps are proven to 330kw atw and people run em in race cars so are reliable.

[titian]

 evowrx said:

Id go walbro, G4 and decap your injectors with split rail for safety. The difference should be pretty noticeable with 20-50kw atw gain depending on dyno/tuner etc. A baffled sump wouldnt be a silly idea either if doing track work. An exhaust and the forementioned silicon intake pipe might help the power delivery a bit also.

Then while you enjoy this chip away at building a forged bottom end you can bolt your heads too. Then when ready just bolt on bigger turbo along with the new shortie and go 250kw+. Decaps are proven to 330kw atw and people run em in race cars so are reliable.

A Vf22 will pull 250 kw. DEcapping? will just flood it. Bigger injectors is the reliable way, Not ya boyracer way

[Guest]

If you going to track it I would put fuel surge tank in as well. cheap enough considering it can save your motor.

[Guest]

 titian']

[quote name='evowrx said:

Id go walbro, G4 and decap your injectors with split rail for safety. The difference should be pretty noticeable with 20-50kw atw gain depending on dyno/tuner etc. A baffled sump wouldnt be a silly idea either if doing track work. An exhaust and the forementioned silicon intake pipe might help the power delivery a bit also.

Then while you enjoy this chip away at building a forged bottom end you can bolt your heads too. Then when ready just bolt on bigger turbo along with the new shortie and go 250kw+. Decaps are proven to 330kw atw and people run em in race cars so are reliable.

/quote]

A Vf22 will pull 250 kw. DEcapping? will just flood it. Bigger injectors is the reliable way, Not ya boyracer way

I never said a VF22 will do 250kw. Didnt say it wouldnt either but def not something Ive ever seen. Im not going to start a decap arguement a lot of guys knock them who have never used them. A lot of people in oz went from sard/aftermarket to decaps and there is locals who have done the same. Decapping wont flood it with a tuneable ecu you know that, trim the d/c. I say this coz my setup is maxed on 440cc with a 1.7:1 reg Id prefer the safety net of lower d/c and a shtload of headroom. Considering heaps of people run ID1000 at a seriously low d/c thats hardly the issue.

[titian]

 evowrx']

[quote name='evowrx said:

Id go walbro, G4 and decap your injectors with split rail for safety. The difference should be pretty noticeable with 20-50kw atw gain depending on dyno/tuner etc. A baffled sump wouldnt be a silly idea either if doing track work. An exhaust and the forementioned silicon intake pipe might help the power delivery a bit also.

Then while you enjoy this chip away at building a forged bottom end you can bolt your heads too. Then when ready just bolt on bigger turbo along with the new shortie and go 250kw+. Decaps are proven to 330kw atw and people run em in race cars so are reliable.

/quote]

A Vf22 will pull 250 kw. DEcapping? will just flood it. Bigger injectors is the reliable way, Not ya boyracer way

I never said a VF22 will do 250kw. Didnt say it wouldnt either but def not something Ive ever seen. Im not going to start a decap arguement a lot of guys knock them who have never used them. A lot of people in oz went from sard/aftermarket to decaps and there is locals who have done the same. Decapping wont flood it with a tuneable ecu you know that, trim the d/c. I say this coz my setup is maxed on 440cc with a 1.7:1 reg Id prefer the safety net of lower d/c and a shtload of headroom. Considering heaps of people run ID1000 at a seriously low d/c thats hardly the issue.

I run 1000 injectors. ;D Its about the spray pattern instead of just squirting a jet of fuel in. Yes you can control ok but you do risk flooding easily.

I said you can use a VF22. By that i mean you dont need a after-market "bigger" turbo, (I run 250kw on VF22)

Evo? ;) Im not looking to argue here. Its just that there is a better and more reliable way than decapping injectors

[SubLeggy]

Thanks for the write ups so far guys.

Yeah ill be taking my time etc with this build as i dont want to blow my money on something that could/will cost a fair few $$ here and there and i dont do it right the first time.

I appreciate any thoughts on how to do it, but i dont want to turn it into a HUGE argument topic about who is right and who is wrong.

Cheers

[Guest]

Eric Im in complete agreement with spray pattern thats why people get them tested. Im not going to pull names into the conversation of whos running them but its a free mod vs $600 that performs fine in cars up to 330 kw atw proven. I wouldnt mind seeing a dyno sheet of yours if thats ok not stirring shit Im genuinely interested.

[Marky]

 SubLeggy said:

Thanks for the write ups so far guys.

Yeah ill be taking my time etc with this build as i dont want to blow my money on something that could/will cost a fair few $$ here and there and i dont do it right the first time.

I appreciate any thoughts on how to do it, but i dont want to turn it into a HUGE argument topic about who is right and who is wrong.Cheers

Homes that ship has long since sailed haha

Cheap / Reliable / Fast - pick two, have fun - you could just lean on the motor you have say 230kw atw and it might live for years happily, you could fork out 5k on a rebuilt tough one, make a touch more, and it could die of bad luck

Plenty will disagree but to me anything around say 220-230kw @ wheels still makes for a pretty rapid car - it\'s mid to low 12 sec 1/4 pace which realisitically is quicker than 95% of the cars on the road - spose depends on what you\'re used to, for some guys anything under 300kW feels like a slug - others will feel like a stock example is insanity

[funkytown]

no id agree with you marky, 230/240wheel is a standard ceiling point in subaru mods. going beyond that incurs a whole bunch of cost as a whole bunch of things are on their limits.

[Guest]

From what Ive seen if you have a stock v3-6 sti you add a G4 and walbro and youll get the same result as everything Ive done pretty much. FMIC is always good as heatsoak is the devol. Still get full boost 3.5-3.8k on a vf22 and youre smaller than that theoretically itll be quicker.

[Guest]

I felt 200 kwatw was quick enough did have rare extremly close ratio gearbox though pretty quick to 100km.

[SubLeggy]

id be happy with 220-230kw even. it just come down to reliability in the end hence why id be going with a well known engine builder who knows there stuff.

Reliable/Fast is what id be more after.

What are people thoughts on after market pistons even? i see a few use CP pistons etc.

[funkytown]

CP\'s are good. def worth while when rebuilding.

a set of those and some eagle rods, factory turbo, factory injectors, reliable fuel set up, and effecient intercooler. 230 all day long.

oh and an oil cooler.

[SubLeggy]

 funkytown said:

CP\'s are good. def worth while when rebuilding.

a set of those and some eagle rods, factory turbo, factory injectors, reliable fuel set up, and effecient intercooler. 230 all day long.

oh and an oil cooler.

Cheers for that Funky. that pretty much sums it up for me

and i guess a CDB as well?

[DacerX]

family man is selling a fully forged 2.5 for 2k cheap cheap