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TT TMIC pipe upgrade revision 3


Rosssub
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Turbo to TMIC silicone pipes to replace OEM

I've seen this covered twice, here by Marky:

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,31651.0.html

and here by nickmcgill:

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,6105.0.html

The OEM pipes smallest internal diameter, primary and secondary is 28-30mm at the bend, The smallest internal diameter in the silicone is 36-38mm not to mention the ribs and corogations. Which is 7.065cm3 compared to 11.335cm3, with an air velocity of 10m/s charged to 14psi air flow rates are:

OEM pipes - 0.37m3 (783cfm)

Silicone - 0.61m3 (1292cfm)

So almost double the amount of flow.

I've just brought a pair for $58 delivered off trademe, only one with these sizes right now:

1 x 1.3/4" to 1.1/2" 45' reducer elbow

1 x 1.3/4" to 1.1/2" 90' reducer elbow

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/auction-648188424.htm

Edited by Rosssub
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i went into super cheap with a primary turbo in hand and bought a rad hose that fitted the outlet and had a 90 and a 45 in it . was like $21 and the rest of it was handy as .

fits awesome and looks stock

everyone do this mod . makes a world of difference . the stock pipes are worse than a lawn mower intake pipe

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  • 6 months later...

Last week I decided this would be a good thing to do. So I went about gathering the various parts.

1 x 45mm" to 38mm" 45' reducer elbow

1 x 45mm" to 38mm" 90' reducer elbow

1 x 70mm flexi joiner “Which was not so flexi”

Ok so my first mistake was getting the wrong size 45 reducer because on the Rev-D the secondary turbo outlet is bigger. Now looking back I knew this already but I was just following instructions here haha, anyway as I said I got the 45mm To 38mm which is too small, If you have a Rev-D I would recommend getting a 54mm” To 45mm” 45’ reducer, That might be a little too big but I will be getting one and trying it myself in the future.

That being said, it is possible to just use the 45mm To 38mm because that is what I did, it is just a true pain to get on when throwing the intercooler back on because they were a very tight fit.

This is the “not so flexi” flexi joiner.

IMG_4475_zps3af39dd1.jpg

Before:

IMG_4462_zpsd722353f.jpg

IMG_4468_zpscef217ba.jpg

After:

With the 45 reducer you can see I flipped it around and used the small end for the intercooler and the larger for the turbo outet. This ended up working ok but as I mentioned earlier it was extremly fidgety to get on because of how tight it was.

IMG_4471_zpsc71f0bde.jpg

As you can see the joiner did not flex evenly and ended up looking horrible, it’s all lopsided and I’m not that happy with it.

IMG_4485_zpsce9504ea.jpg

IMG_4484_zpsfa45a08d.jpg

IMG_4483_zps6b5916a8.jpg

Thats it, all done. i don't think there is a noticeable difference when just driving around the streets, however i did notice it holds boost into higher rpm better.

Edited by A_J_T
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  • 3 weeks later...
 B4 I was 250T said:
Thanks Ross, noticing ZeroSports pipes are getting harder to find but could probably go to magoos or someone to make me one up. Cheers mate, love ya work :-)

Sweet, cheers. Getting one made is not a bad idea, probably be less than $50. If you do I have my original blue joiners here, could get 10 made and re-coupe some $$$. I think Fortyone auto have the Zerosports new, or Strongs get them now and then.

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I notice the ZeroSports pipe increases in size just after the first bend, do you think this varying in diameter is required? I know that if you mess with the intake diameter before the MAF it really upsets things but does after the MAF have the same issues? Just a thought as I’m also looking at getting something made up for mine.

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I think it's only for fitment reasons, just a stainless reducer really. Other models have smaller diameters.

So you could use a straight 90mm diameter bent pipe, with a silicone reducer at one end. Or 75mm pipe with reducer at the air box end

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