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Bad Metalic Noise - BEB?


chrisjunkie

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Hi Guys,

So was driving my car home last night and as I pulled away from the lights I heard a sound that made my heart drop. Confirming with Dad and his mechanic mates they reckon it is definitely a BEB failure (or is it?) At about 2100rpm the engine makes a horrible noise but if I am ultra careful driving it doesn't make any noise. What we can't figure out is why it is so intermittent. It sorta goes away at about 3,000 but comes back again at random rpm etc.

I am able to get a shortblock for 2k or around that so that is good.

Is it hard to do and is it worth it? Definitely want to keep the car but what are my other options? I am quite keen to do it myself as not only is it good experience it can save me a shyte load.

Ideas?

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Ok so attached are two videos. In the first just before the oh sh*t it makes the noise and then as the engine is revved and it can be heard again from about 0:16 onwards

In the second video it is doing it constantly again but just took two to try and get the best sound. This rattle happens from about 0:07 onwards.

Hope this helps you diagnose my very upsetting problem!

Trying to upload to youtube at the moment but it is taking ages. Just right click and save as.

http://chriswiggins.co.nz/subypics/vid1.mp4

http://chriswiggins.co.nz/subypics/vid2.mp4

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Guest keltik

Yup just listened to the first vid and that thing has bottom end issues. I dont know how much a rebuild costs - but a longblock from the wreckers will set you back $1000.

2k for a shortblock sounds pretty good, at least then you know the motor is built properly and not prone to grenading another 1000km down the line. Before you fit the new motor, learn from others recent misfortunes and find/fix the cause of this one blowing up.

If you can fit the new shortblock yourself, which to be honest isnt too hard as long as you have a service manual and a brain, the new shortblock option is a good one.

At least then you can re-use your new cambelt and other bits.

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Been there, fun times.

I def think buying a brand new short block, and getting a mechanic to plane and bolt on the heads is ya best bet. Still reasonably cheap, and a very sound ad future proof option. Do as much work yourself as you can, get any mates who are mechanics over to help, or enlist the help of some fellow clubsubers. I had never even changed a radiator when mine went, and did all the work at home with mates who knew what they were doing. It's great fun, and saves a bundle of cash.

DO NOT DRIVE IT. It's not too far gone yet, but if you keep driving, even another 20 km's, you'll be sending metal all through the oil system and will kill much more than just a big end bearing. Take it off the road, and get into it.

Where abouts in auckland are you?

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Hey man, i live in kohimarama and do you think i will be able to get away with just doing the crankshaft and bearings? I want to try and avoid the shortblock as i dont really have the money at the moment. I do want to do the shortblock as a full rebuild but its just not that affordable

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Guest boostin

Depends of the BEB has completely gone and damaged both the rod and crank, and the piston has been contacting the head. Get it apart and check it out.

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Guest STiEVO

DO NOT BOTHER with a brand new short block especially if its a v7 from wingers as on saturday i was told of 7 v7 blocks purchased from wingers in the waikato area that have all run bigend bearings. one poor chap had it run after only 1000kms. fix the one you have if not to far gone. or buy a runner and save up for a v8 sti complete engine and loom or a h6 like clunt it would be porno as.

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Id tend to disagree koro.

A number of those were due to not fixing the original problem why the beb bearing went just slapping a new block in ..

THis method is bound to kill another motor..

If done properly they seem to be ok..

But i agree there have been a number of v7 sti blocks in gc8s lately that have farked out

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Guest boostin

V7 short block and early heads means high compression. Add some boost and they're real quick, for a month or so. You need to use thick head gaskets to drop the compression ratio. And fixing the original cause is always a good idea!

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Guest STiEVO

apart from the one you know of what happened to the other 6. seems to be a regular occurance and why did it run the first beb on the way back from putaruru. not fighting just curious as to why gc8s and gc8s with v7 short blocks run beb. it seems to be far to many to be a coincidence. either way go find a v8 engine and work with that.

anyone know of any v8 and up that have run beb that were not running on 95 or out of oil cause these things are not subarus fault.

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I know of someone that has a ver2 STi RA shortblock in need of some TLC and some GTFO OUT OF HIS GARAGE ;D Always an option I guess...needs to be honed, needs new piston rings. It's closed-deck.

But a brand, brand new shortblock is probably the wisest (but not cheapest) option.

Depends what the budget says eh :/

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Guest boostin

Find out what head gaskets they used Koro. I bet they used standard Subaru gaskets instead of thicker aftermarket ones. The engine builder should know better than to slap it together without checking the compression ratios first.

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So do you think it is possible for me to do myself? Heaps of mechanic mates are more than happy to help but subaru have told me it is too hard?!?!?! I don't think they know about the 5 people and clubsub behind me haha.

What I find weird is how the knocking sound only comes in at about 2krmp as shouldn't it be going all the time if the bearing is blown?

Still trying to decide - shortblock or just fix crank and bearings?

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