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Up pipe heat wrap


That Guy
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12 hours ago, evowrx said:

 

Its irrelevant because you havent added one piece of information regarding your theory. But then that is what trolls tend to do. 

 

The engine runs cooler at a richer afr than a lean one and with timing you can swing it either way at cruise or on boost. Thats where my heads at pretty simple really like me.

 

If Im wrong I would prefer to be corrected with some substance than plainly told Im wrong and youre right. Feel free to add something to back up your claim.

 

Im not here to swing my dick like you seem to be, I just like to regurgitate info Ive gleaned from people as Im not a self serving arsehole.

 

There's nothing to discuss. Foot down is hotter than not. End of story. 

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12 hours ago, slystiguy said:

 

Dude... No. You can't talk to people that way. I don't know why you bother saying anything at all... Seems you just like to argue with anyone over anything. You're just so petty, every single frekn time. 

 

From someone who has gutted the flexis in both headers and uppipe I can assure you this cracking nonsense is only relevant to cheap thin walled A/M headers. Stock cast ones are the business for mods. And this isn't just me talking S*** this is what SAS run on their rally car. The factory system is fine, low maintenance in comparison. I'm sure if heat wrap lasted for 100,000 kms they would use it 

 

Dude. I can talk to him like that. He is on here giving people who trust anyone who speaks with authority S*** advice. No one ever gets called out on it because everyone is so sensitive. 

 

 

 

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On 12/23/2016 at 5:44 PM, That Guy said:

Being that I'm not expert on thermal efficiency I figured some of you guys may have some ideas. Would I be better off leaving the stock heat shields in place or wrap the F***ed with heat wrap? I kinda want to remove the heat sheildsto inspect for leaks, however, it does appear that they are not a simple bolt on, bolt off item. Im not one to be worried about being a butcher to remove things so that's not an issue, just wondering if it's worthwhile. 

A much better way to check for exhaust leaks is to do a smoke test. Unless you want an up pipe that performs better than stock... leave it stock.

 

 

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WRC headers run no flexi, and neither did a set of Racefab $1500 headers a friend has either.

 

So saying that you should run a flexi is also misinformation - which to be fair Loner didn't say, he said prone to cracking if you didn't.

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Loner said Hard driving makes exhaust hotter - which i definately agree with

 

evowrx said exhaust gets hotter during cruize speed - if you when you tune it you decide to run lean at low revs 

 

This thread isnt about either of those things but now Thatguy knows if the exhaust gets too hot when he drives his car hard, he cant pop into a tuner and get a Link computer installed and then get it tuned so it can also run hot at low rpm too

 

:):):):):):):)

 

 

i love this family of ours, merry xmas

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Loren the advice I gave that contradicted your bullshit wasnt meant to make you sound like a clown and kick off some petty retribution. I guess you must be the overly sensitive one to take it that way and embark on your little tirade.

 

If you run lean at cruise it runs hot and if you run lean with low timing it runs hotter again. You can run more fuel to cool temps at cruise or at load. None of that is misinformation or incorrect its just subject to how your car is tuned.

 

At idle youre correct and Im wrong unless they run at a lean idle.

 

Generally on a race car you dont run it as hard tuned as a road car due to the load and associated temps. You dont normally have extended periods of load on the road unless youre a motorway racer. Another thing you can do is tip in fuel on over run to cool the engine. In over run the exhaust cools anyway unlike cruise.

 

Youre not 100% correct and you cant back up your claim dont try and call people out when you cant back it up.

 

You should really get out more.

 

 

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