Questions about NZ/Subaru

[Guest]

:)hi just need some help iv brought a wrx sti 99 im wonting to spend $4000 on motor i was told to buy a walbro 500hp fuel pump and to get 500cc plus injectors and then to put a link g4 computer in it iv all ready put 3 inch staght through but need a direction to head please some one help me out

[BlkPnthr]

Probably best to start a new topic of your own

[Guest]

I was looking around for insurance threads, and I stumbled onto this one:

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,814.0.html

I was wondering how you guys in NZ determine the car's value. Here in the US, we have 3 different nationally published price guides, so it's pretty easy to determine. How do you and the insurance company reach an agreed value?

Also, what does "excess" mean?

[funkytown]

excess means the amount you have to pay when you claim.. i.e you smash your car and it costs $2000 to fix, your excess amount with insurance company is $500 therefore of the $2k you pay the first $500 and they pay the $1500.

Agreed value most of the insurance companies have a price book that has car values in them with a range. you can get "modifications" added to the agreed value sometimes or sometimes you have to take out a seperate policy for those.

[Guest keltik]

Excess = deductible (sp?)

The insurance companies have an approximate idea of what your car is worth from sales figures. if you want to set a value considerably higher than that - you have to supply a valuation of your car from a dealership or other place.

[Guest]

Ooh. Deductible. Man, this language barrier (lol) is gonna really make me seem like an idiot for the first few months. Cool cool, makes sense.

The excess seems so high for most people on that thread, it's like around $1,000 for most people from skimming through the thread quickly. So if my excess is $1,000, and I need a bumper replaced which will cost me $900 in parts and labor, I'd have to pay all $900? Insurance seems so much cheaper here, dang.

[funkytown]

 Grifter730 said:

Ooh. Deductible. Man, this language barrier (lol) is gonna really make me seem like an idiot for the first few months. Cool cool, makes sense.

The excess seems so high for most people on that thread, it's like around $1,000 for most people from skimming through the thread quickly. So if my excess is $1,000, and I need a bumper replaced which will cost me $900 in parts and labor, I'd have to pay all $900? Insurance seems so much cheaper here, dang.

yup thats totally it dude.. and then if you did make a claim for something $1100 they would only pay $100 of it and you would get raped having your no claims bonus removed... thats more explanation all together..

insurance = stealing consumers money quite frankly

[Guest keltik]

Ive only gotta crash my car twice in 20years and i break even with my insurance company. As ive crashed 2 so far in 6 years im doing pretty good...just a shame both were uninsured

Either way, moral of the story is it isnt cheap but it still saves your ass

My old man was quite proud at sinking his 300k boat. Hes even with the insurers for life

The language barrier is funny. Youve got it easy tho as most here can understand the American accent. Welsh accent isnt so good

[Guest Bjcnz]

Haha good effort on the boat, I've written off a few boats, but unfortunitly insurance doesn't cover you for racing :-(

[Guest]

Subaru's are considered high risk vehicles by insurance companies.

There are three things that affect your excess in this order:

- vehicle

- drivers age

- insurance history (especially lack of it).

So, if you were trying to insure your old Honda Accord, it'd probably be cheaper premiums and excess wise.

The type of cover affects the price too. We have two types, "third party fire and theft" and "comprehensive".

"third party fire and theft" is cheaper and means you are covered if the car is stolen or goes up in flames and it covers any other cars involved in an accident (but not your own).

Comprehensive covers all of the above + replacement/repair of your car if in an accident.

Finally, the type of valuation (market value or agreed value) affects the premiums.

Oh, and make sure you exclude under 25's from driving the vehicle, that'll save you a few bucks on insurance as will fitting a 4 or 5 star alarm (it is often a requirement of cover these days).

[Guest]

Yikes. Why are you guys so expensive, lol! Dayem! I definitely won't allow anyone under 25 to drive my car. Good thing that all my relatives can't drive stick anyway. And I'll be getting an alarm (I'm assuming 5 star is the best?), and immobiliser. Hopefully that'll drive the cost down a bit too.

I gotta talk to the insurance companies and see if having a super duper clean record for 15 years over here in the US (with records to prove it) will net me any discounts.

Just to clarify, the excess isn't a one time thing, is it? So if I had to pay $1k one time, and a few days later something else happens, I still have to pay another $1k excess?

How is running an insurance company even legal? That's some filthy robbery right there.

[funkytown]

lol it wont drive your cost of insurance down . with a subbies its either have a 5 star alarm or they wont even insure you.. haha

and correct - the excess is applied to each and every claim haha!!

[Guest keltik]

Yeah you got it - if you smash your car up and a day after getting it fixed you break it again - thats another k.

Its not too bad here - the UK has it a million times worse.

5star is the best but insurance companies generally dont care - as long as youve got a good immobiliser. State dont offer any discounts for alarms but they do give you a chunk off for an immobiliser. Some companies require an alarm to insure you tho

[funkytown]

 SpotMe said:

Subaru's are considered high risk vehicles by insurance companies.

There are three things that affect your excess in this order:

- vehicle

- drivers age

- insurance history (especially lack of it).

So, if you were trying to insure your old Honda Accord, it'd probably be cheaper premiums and excess wise.

The type of cover affects the price too. We have two types, "third party fire and theft" and "comprehensive".

"third party fire and theft" is cheaper and means you are covered if the car is stolen or goes up in flames and it covers any other cars involved in an accident (but not your own).

Comprehensive covers all of the above + replacement/repair of your car if in an accident.

Finally, the type of valuation (market value or agreed value) affects the premiums.

Oh, and make sure you exclude under 25's from driving the vehicle, that'll save you a few bucks on insurance as will fitting a 4 or 5 star alarm (it is often a requirement of cover these days).

also a variation on the 3rd party.. mine states that is some Sh!thead smashes into my car, my 3rd party will cover my own car (not theirs) if they do not have insurance..

Have had this argument with lots of folks and i am 100% and checked with insurance company that those are my terms

[Guest]

 keltik said:

Its not too bad here - the UK has it a million times worse.

That's just beyond my comprehension. I can't imagine how it can be much worse than this.

Why is an immobiliser important compared to an alarm? I believe B4 RSK comes standard with an immobiliser...? I can't remember. I guess it's time to start looking up alarm + immobilisers....

[Guest]

id go with the avs seeing that we're sponsered by them.

however i didnt know this an went mongoose, apparently dynatrons a good one too

[Guest keltik]

 Grifter730']

[quote name='keltik said:

Its not too bad here - the UK has it a million times worse./quote]

That's just beyond my comprehension. I can't imagine how it can be much worse than this.

Why is an immobiliser important compared to an alarm? I believe B4 RSK comes standard with an immobiliser...? I can't remember. I guess it's time to start looking up alarm + immobilisers....

Some do, some dont. Mine doesnt have it and ive seen a couple B4's that dont. The factory one is good enough on a B4 for insurance purposes.

I might pay $1200 per year for my $20,000 220bhp 3liter.....while my mate in the UK pays 1,300 pounds ($2800 NZD i think) for his $6000 110bhp 1.3liter.

[Guest]

 Grifter730 said:

alarm + immobilisers....

alarm- bells that go off when someone unlocks doors from inside, breaks windows, moves car, etc. while the alarm is armed.

immobiliser- stops the engine from starting until disarmed.

they will be marketed/sold/installed as an alarm with immobiliser, or dual immobiliser, etc. it just means that turning the key in the ignition will not work. it can be defeated, however. nothing is foolproof.

[Guest]

Definitely go with the AVS S5, great alarm, 5 star rating and it can be had for a pretty good price installed

[Guest]

 mrdvus said:

id go with the avs seeing that we're sponsered by them.

If going with AVS, is there a referral code that I can put in that would benefit clubsub or anything?

[Guest]

ok, first up, i gotta say to you guys shop around for insurance!!! i did and a lot of the "big companies" wouldnt even insure my 89 RS legacy, even though i am 30 yrs old, and i was insuring it for $4000. but clubauto insured it without an alarm or immobiliser for $500 a year...full insurance!!!

also, you DONT have to pay the excess if someone rams into you, you only pay it when you are at fault

if you have 3rd party, you have to be careful, some insurance companies dont care if someone hit you, they wont lift a finger, i had to go through the disputes tribunal, and i got F%$#ED.

[Guest]

 hellmitt said:

ok, first up, i gotta say to you guys shop around for insurance!!! i did and a lot of the "big companies" wouldnt even insure my 89 RS legacy, even though i am 30 yrs old, and i was insuring it for $4000. but clubauto insured it without an alarm or immobiliser for $500 a year...full insurance!!!

They're actually the only one I've contacted so far, since I remember your earlier post about them

[Guest]

sweet, that comment was more for all the guys who have high premiums coz they go with the big companies...i try to avoid them like the plague!!! what did they say about you having a perfect history in the states? im sure if you can provide documentation that they will give you a big discount

[Guest]

So I'm trying to get a quote from them, and I'm filling out the form online. It's asking me what type of license I have. How many types are there? @_@; Do I just put down "Driver's License"....?

[funkytown]

either

• full
  
• restricted
  
• learners
  

you'd have full equivalent im sure.