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Making a digital day/logger work raspberry pi. Can either run Android with ecu software, or rasbian with full version of tuner studio so I can actually make adjustments and setup triggered logging as my ECU has no onboard logging. Sent from my M6 Note using Tapatalk

anyone make it ? didn't see any svx. i was parked under a tree. ps... why is this in the wellington section ? shannon is closer to palmy

I need wiring diagrams for Jdm v7 sti , and 1990 rs legacy bc5 I'm trying to fit a v7 engine into a old rs and need advice and diagrams please Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

Making this topic so people wont run into the exact same issues @Niran and I experienced. Hopefully this will save people a lot of mucking around. The Problem The GV/GR fuel hanger seems to be a significantly restrictive part of the fuel system on late model STI's (MY08 - MY14). Because of this restriction it causes fuel pumps to get hot, cavitate, and eventually fail, causing big issues down the line. The part of the stock hanger which is returning fuel simply cannot flow enough fuel out of it to keep pace with the bypassed amount from regulator. What happens next is rather than the Return line being un-pressurized, it starts building pressure, which affects the performance of the regulator which in turn causes flow/pressure issues down the feed line, which then causes the fuel pump to cavitate. Cavitation link for reference if you don't know what it is. The Solution This issue can be resolved by using a surge tank setup, or by replacing the fuel hanger with an aftermarket alternative. Radium Engineering hangers have been proven to resolve the issue, as well as the Process West surge tank option. The reason why going to a surge tank solves this issue is because you also change from a high pressure fuel pump, to a low pressure high flow pump which just dumps into the Surge tank. Additional Info This may also apply to a select legacy GT's between MY05 and MY07. Someone to confirm, perhaps @Andy_Mac may know, but I believe they use the same hanger. Please note that this discussion is aimed more towards people chasing big power (300kw +) If you are doing simple bolt-on's this may not apply to you so don't worry! Solution A: Aftermarket Fuel Hanger The below is for a Radium Fuel Pump Hanger. (20-0380-00, 20-0382-00, 20-0383-00) It is recommended to purchase the plumbing kit for this too. Solution B: Surge Tank Process West Anti-Surge Fuel System - https://processwest.com.au/surgetank-08-14 Solution C: Hack Job Nobody we're aware of has tried this yet, if someone does can you take pictures and post up step by step instructions and ill add it in here. Contributors: @Dairusire @Andy_Mac

Yeah this was nice as I already had one to test. Megasquirt 2 doesn't have onboard memory or SD card for logging so this seems like a fairly easy and cheap easy of doing it. And means I can make tuning changes if I don't have a laptop on me. Plus I can run autotune on long road trips without worrying about battery life. I have a relay for my wideband that only powers up when the car actually starts so I'll use the same source to power this, have tuner studio auto start and connect and trigger logging over 75% tps. I was going to just use a tablet, but when I have a tablet connected it drains the device battery super fast and it seems a pain to fine to make or buy a cable that both charges and does usb otg at the same time so this solves that. Sent from my M6 Note using Tapatalk

V7 ECU Pinout is at the bottom of this document: https://linkecu.com/documentation/WRX9+.pdf Not sure about the rest, sorry.

Basically identical.

That CAI for an n/a 6 in place of an intercooler is genius. Obvious HP/torque gains with the ECU but how does the weight of the ez30r stack up against the ej20/eg205?

Some pics of the BL/BP cradle for comparison.

Hey guys, from a technical perspective. you aren't describing cavitation as such. Cavtitation occurs when the pressure on the suction side of the pump drops too low (usually a negative value determined by the pump design) for the pumps given amount of lift. This boils the fluid on the suction side of the pump and the bubbles then collapse on the impeller. What you guys are describing is more like what I would refer to as dead-heading a pump. This is where the fluid essentially stalls (relative to the impeller) and you get fluid slip on the impeller (like compressor surge). It sounds like you are driving the pump off the end of its operational curve, and this is driving the current draw up and frying the pump motor. Can someone measure a dead pumps electrical resistance versus a good pump? Cavitation would destroy the impeller and maybe the shaft bearings/surfaces. Dead-heading will burn out the motor. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

What @Andy_Mac said is right, but to expand on it. To achieve 300KW+ you need a very high flowing high pressure Fuel pump, this goes up the feed line pressurised and through the rails to the regulator. Regulator then sends fuel back down the return line to tank. The part of the stock hanger which is returning fuel simply cannot flow enough fuel out of it to keep pace with the bypassed amount from regulator. What happens next is rather than the Return line being unpressurised, it starts building pressure, which affects the performance of the regulator which in turn causes flow/pressure issues down the feed line, which then causes the fuel pump to cavitate. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation link for reference if you don't know what it is. So in short, you modify/replace/change the stock hanger so there is no restriction and thus no pressure issues which could solve your entire problem. The reason why going to a surge tank solves this issue is because you also change from a high pressure fuel pump, to a low pressure high flow pump which just dumps into the Surge tank. EDITS: Because I'm dyslexic, I'm fixing my grammar and spelling as I spot it. Have to re-read things like this 10,000 times to make sure I've got it all

Thought I'd better post a pic of my latest family member, had it a wee while now to be honest but kept pretty quiet about it.. NZ new, second owner and only 77 thou k's now, rust proofed when new so very very tidy, everything works including air ride, digital dash and not a single squeak or rattle while driving. Got a few reliability plans for the EA82T to keep it alive forever (under bonnet air/water intercooler and stainless exhaust plus a few other tricks learnt over the years), but keeping it as standard as possible will be the mantra throughout. Bit of a dream car for me to be honest, i even had the Tamiya model of this exact car/colour/interior as a kid!. Joins my Brumby as a permanent member of the family along with the everyday drivers.

Got another one added to the collection. 1984 Leone GT. JDM EA82 Turbo, 3 spd Auto, Air con, Power Steer, Trip Computer, Digital Dash, Electric Windows, 4 wheel disks, had Air Suspension but removed. Just over 100 thou k's, drives like a dream, no rattles, fantastic condition and a real credit to previous owner/s. Plans: 5 Stud Conversion, LSD rear, Air/water Intercooler, 15's and Lowered. Happy days.

Very tidy! My first Subaru was a blue XT (reg MX9138); loved it! Had issues with the suspension but the local subbie dealer did a some magic to keep it going. Was an amazing car to sit in and drive... the electronic dash was fab and the 'joystick' transmission. Clocked up a fair few ks and fun in her. Had to sell her when circumstances changed :-( Just checked out the reg on CarJam…. deregistered in 2002 and off the road at 222,000km :-( Have a 95 SVX now 360,000km and love her too! Fingers crossed for many more years of enjoyment and pleasure out all of our cars!

Back when I was a wee chap (at primary school even, like 1988-89) my best friends dad had one of these. He was so fanatical about it and I could have sworn he loved it more than both his kids combined. I think he got it as the first nz owner with something silly like 25,000km on it. Drove it on his daily commute of 300 odd km 5 days a week without fail for years. Still had it when I left college some 7 or 8 years later and was looking just as good as the day he brought it. I think it was the first turbo car I ever rode and with that body styling it was like being Marty McFly with the doc on an acid trip. I still remember how gutted he was when the fancy factory suspension gave up at somewhere around 400,000km and he had to replace it with kyb's (i think), never have I seen a grown man so gutted. Later in life when his son begun driving it we lined up for the mandatory dad's car drag race. I had my old man's company povo spec legacy wagon (he use to be a Subaru mechanic once upon a time), all 1.8 liters of it and surprisingly murdered the poor vortex. Turns out it was painfully slow after 3 trips to the moon and back. Anyway, that's my story of how I viciously lived the life of a vortex owner. Cool car bro, giz!

Marky is right. i used to work with them alot. Call Thomas down there he just started but he has worked for george stock for 2 years so he knows his stuff, he likes mx5s and landrovers but meh a cars a car. Also Darren is right about spring rates and such it will ruin your handling and feel. I used to work in the suspension game for 5 years and ive seen it all to lower a car and how much stress it puts on other things that you dont think about. just to have a nicer looking car can make everything else worse. My say is invest in tyres and swaybars.... but then no one makes swaybars for a svx.... well bellum and east mite but you would have to give it to them and ask for a bigger one

When I say I want it to last AND that I want to lower it, I mean I want to lower it a little to where it doesn't look like a mix between a Lamborghini and a ford ranger. Just enough to where the wheel gap and ride height are enough to escape my driveway without grounding my sump to a stump.

The SVX comes equip with the diverse; Luxury Sports mode, Featuring Sports Cruise! Laugh as you Cruise past less Sporty cars that only feature the classic "Cruise" feature - which studies show is 100% less Sporty Lesser vehicle owners will cry as their sports mode button doesn't activate ANY form of Luxury, let alone Luxury, at the exact same time as Sports! Straight out of the imaginary SVX Catalogge

You need to sign into an image hosting site like "photobucket"and upload your pics there. Then copy the link that it'll give you and paste it here to post an image. The link will have "img" tags or start with "url=". Here's a comparison of the 4 plug ecu's that I've managed to chase all the pins over the years. The bd5a/bg5a pinout is completely different to the normal wrx or bc5 pinout. So you'd have to know whether your possumlink was originally intended for the normal layout or for the bd5a layout? I didn't think that they made a possumlink for the twin turbo, 4 plug legacy?