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Why sell it? Because the cambelt info you were given wasn't accurate and it isn't due for 60,0000km. IMO I think you just drop it and enjoy the car, you liked it enough to buy it and your'e letting a little thing tarnish your whole opinion of the car.

it's a reasonable price and the cambelt will be fine another 60000 km, so move on.

Get it on a dyno with a wide band o2 hooked up and see what the tune is really like. Then make a plan when you know what’s happening. Could have been tuned when the exhaust was done.

SO I'm rather well known for "just making stuff happen" around here well ClubSUB have sponsored an Entry to Sunday's Superlap Event for this car That's about as official as it gets for a 'ClubSUB display' : the first one in about 10 years & my First entry to a 4&R event come say hi if you're there, first one to SAY CLUBSUB to me gets a tee-shirt from @mlracing.co.nz our Club Supporters! Or go and fill out the Indemnity form (link above) if you want to come for a ride (not at track speeds I reckon it'll be the Chrome Expression sessions) otherwise yeah It's not meant to be a serious car, not aiming for any awards or speed records & I am taking the Piss out of Boyracers, us and you, and I'm just there to HAVE FUN which I think people start to forget how to do around here sometimes <3 Joker also LOL Facebook is down : where will the internet mechanics and popup Subaru Groups go for "What oil do I use in my Subaru?" www.ClubSUB.org.nz would be a good resource to keep alive don't you think? I'm just doing what I can to support it and keep it alive & active http://www.4androtary.co.nz/jamboree/jamboree-event-info

Someone who has a CNC copy this and no more worries about corners https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/killer-b-oil-control-valve-suit-subaru-wrx-sti-my08-14-gh8-grb.html

I'm keen for something casual. Track day with beers/food whatever after would be my vote. Just tacking onto a playday is easy enough. Don't even really need a whole Subaru group on the track to have a good time.

I understand your position, you feel like the car is now tainted in some way and it's taken away your general likeness for the car and feel like you won't enjoy it as much as you would have had you known the actual truth. Been there done that. But if it's a good car then drive it and enjoy it. Spend some $$ if you want getting the cambelt done, but I bet it doesn't need doing. Sure belts can perish with age but most of the time they are good for 10+ years Unless you can prove they knowingly misadvertised the car then you will be wasting time at the tribunal. Things like pre purchase inspection etc comes into this here. It's all about buyer doing their due diligence.

Even if the cambelt has an expiry date... which sounds like BS... it wouldn't apply to the idlers or water pump, so changing the belt would be cheap.

Cheers man, that’s so much! I’ll def look into the tune. The cars fully stock and only has 50,000k’s on the clock. I just put the second Set of tyres from the factory that’s how untouched it is 😂 I really want to make it quicker but at the same time I want to keep it fully stock because it’s such a good exemplar of s sti

You can also try An Lal from custom culture and tuning he's done a few of my cars and he's very thorough, and results always good He has roadtune and dyno option. Roadtune much cheaper. Not sure if he is still active here but search it on facebook.

+1 for getting it tuned, My old version 8 when i bought it did exactly the same. Had an exhaust but no tune and it constantly overboosted. As @boon said, new panel filter, 3-port, fuel pump for good measure and proper dyno tune. Car will be a street animal. Sure @PBMS will be able to do something for you if you say you're from clubsub and do the lot with them

If you are wanting to play it extra safe (which is what I'd be doing) then go and speak to the tuner and see if they will book a dyno slot for you, but if the initial baseline test looks good and you are happy with it, agree beforehand that you have the option to stop there and only pay $x i.e 2-3-400. A decent chunk of the work of getting it tuned is setting it up on the dyno, checking everything is working fine etc. PBMS are a good bet I should think, personally I used E&H motors to tune my standalone ECU and I'm very happy with the results. Karl Ruiterman has a lot of experience with subarus and used to be the only option in Pukekohe until PBMS got back into tuning.

Back on topic, now im really not sure what to do. Have some people saying i should go to the tribunal and others not. what i want to know is i paid 6500 for this car with 144,000km on it, other than a cracked dash and some scratches the car is in good nick. Even if the cambelt isn't what they say think it was an ok deal? contemplating just selling it on

wait what???

As long as you're running it on 98 it's not going to do anything bad. I have a V7 STI which only has arguably marginally stronger internals and I've run something like 26psi from a WAY bigger turbo through it and it didn't die. I ran it (untuned) for like 2 years with a downpipe and exhaust and it was hitting something around 21-22psi all the time and it didn't give a damn. Just run good fuel, don't thrash it when it's cold, and factor in getting a tune somewhere down the track - budget $1500 and get a high-flow panel filter, a 3-port boost solenoid and an aftermarket fuel pump just for good luck, car will probably make a safe-as-houses 215wkw and drive bloody nicely too.

Where is the the 22psi peak? You said in 3rd it just goes to 19psi and holds... which will be fine.

Which track would people be thinking of hitting? unsure if I will travel to far this year as I want to get some house reno done but could be keen on Manfield / Taupo ? we could always plan something later in the year? or does it normally happen around this time.

Most places will do a o2 monitored dyno run for less than $200. It obviously doesn't lessen the cost of a tune if you do need one but it'll let you know straight away how the current tune is and whether it needs a re-tune or not.

I believe the cage needs to extend to the front strut towers if you have removed the airbags and you want this included on the authority card. The LVVTA cert can cover the removal of the airbags if the car is pre-2001, however it's generally much easier dealing with the authority card scrutineer than the LVVTA cert guy. Plus as Gripless said, it also improves chassis stiffness which is worthwhile in a GC8.

Just my 2 cents on an RX8... If you're gonna get one, get a series 2 (2008-2012 IIRC), as the engine has heaps of minor small improvements over the series 1, that makes it heaps better (for example 3 oil squirters for the housing, vs 2 in the series 1). Although, if you can find a rebuilt series 1 RX8, with the series 2 motor improvements, it'll be worth it. They're not a bad car at all, if you maintain and drive them properly. Can't avoid bad fuel economy unfortunately, that's just the downside of a Rotary. They're a great little chassis! Tons of fun! CarThrottle recently did a series on one, and Alex (the main presenter) absolutely loved it! Despite the extra work needed to maintain and run a Rotary. My Dad has a series 2 RX8 (Spirit R mind you), and it's load of fun! I love the sound of revving it out to 9000rpm. Although, if you're looking for a car to make more powerful, the RX7 with the 13B-REW is a far better choice, because of the peripheral exhaust ports (vs side port exhaust on the RX8). RX8's are great with suspension mods etc, where as RX7's you can make more power on them with a turbo.

I did the same thing too, but for a motorbike. Settled on a new Royal Enfield Continental GT. Gonna use some of my incoming inheritance for it. Such a wicked bike! The GF is also interested in a Classic 350... so I think I scored a good one of the female side lol

i actually can't stand the brapping of a rotary i just like the sound as it climbs through the rpm. I'm kinda stupid i actually like the sound of an RX8 more, but i agree rx7's are much better.

Thanks I will give them benefit of the doubt and believe they didn't know. They bought the car as a fresh import from economy cars (have reciept) in 2016, when i talked to economy cars they said that they themselves really only go off the milage on the belt and not its age so they wouldnt have bothered replacing the belt since it only had 4000km on it at the time of sale. So i imagine they were told it was a new belt. However does seem a little too convenient that just as belt needs replacing they decide to sell it. A family friend is a mechanic and does work for us so might get him to have a look at it tomorrow night or something. thanks for the help! i appreciate the input as stressing over what to do hahaha yeah but oh my god i love the sound of them, the handling and the looks, could almost live with their fuel and unreliability. But subies are much better all around. I still dream of a rotary though haha I have heard some horror stories of belts being checked and seeming fine and then snapping. But i will get it checked anyway

Just be glad you didnt get an RX8.

I had the option of 6 or 8 and seems like that still since 2013 changes. Forward to strut towers optional but adds a lot of strength to chassis for handling http://manual.motorsport.org.nz/index.php/knowledgebase/36-2-01b-schedule-a-2/#a2-5 Motorsport nz standards. the thing is changing and extending a half cage to full gets hard to weld all the bars together 360 degrees around and may result in the roof coming off and coupes the rear glass as well you can offset the weight by removing the factory side intrusions etc.

Just remember if you go 9's and want to remain street legal you need a 8 point dont think you can be street legal with a 6 point although I may be incorrect.