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Hi all, I've been collecting parts for a single turbo conversion I was going to do to my 98 bg5 GTB ej206 manual. (yeah weird, and wrong CR as it runs manual ecu, yet has reliably run for the two years I've owned it) but then I scored an 02 rev d bh5 yesterday with a blown primary. So now it seems sensible to put all single turbo stuff into the rev d as my bg5 has nothing wrong with it (yet). I understand it's a bit of a different process, but I think I have most of what I'll need. I have a td06 20g, full length tuned headers (slip joint type), 3" down pipe, fmic setup, greddy emange ultimate piggy back ecu (just gonna buy a harness, CBF with repin or splice), tial 44mm external wastegate, blitz bov. I also have half a WRX in parts and a spare motor to scavenge parts from. So what I want to know at this point is if anyone has used the factory ecu in the rev d to go single? I believe they are tunable? And other than the wiring and different intake, is there a hell of a lot of difference in the actual physical process of swapping everything over? I read the single turbo thread, am I able to largely follow that? Or is it a completely different game?
I have been having a mess around with our Legacy GTB trying to get a few pops and crackles on decel. I'll start with the car.
We have a 2003 Legacy GTB with an EJ20Y, so it has the bigger TD04 Turbo, car has a gutted cat in the downpipe but the secondary cat is till in tact but i think its on its way out, the whole bottom of the cat is covered in white stuff and you can get a bit of an eggy smell sometimes, so that could be an issue. I have been playing around with the "Base Timing B" maps as this is the map most people adjust to get pops and crackles. I have adjusted between 2000rpm and 5000rpm to -12 degrees but the car still won't pop and crackle, is this because of the secondary cat or another reason? I would have thought even with the secondary cat you would still be able to hear it try to pop. The WRX's and STI's seem to have an Overrun table which our legacy doesn't have, also tables called "base timing b (in gear)" A few questions come to mind.
1. When does the car actually use "Base timing b" and "Base timing a",
2. Do i need to add fuel at the points where the timing is retarded.
3. Does the Legacy cut fuel on decel?
4. Why wont you pop
If anyone has any info at all that would be great,
Inspired by Super Guitar Guy and Super Stereo Installer I thought I'd share some information in appreciation of the super time and work these guys and everyone else generously shares here, thank you.
I've decided to do the double DIN and install one of the new Kenwood DNX9180DABS HU with Navi and add the dashcam. Currently collecting my bits, plans, work in progress. I figure if I can get all that kit running my Outback will be more capable than a new one, (no dashcam!) and a hell of a lot cheaper! Plan is to use the existing amp. I think they feed 80W (RMS?) per channel but that's not confirmed. Still knowing how they perform I am happy enough with the McIntosh amp and speakers.
In the mean time I wanted to swap the Japanese banded PF-4062l head unit with an (ex NZ GT Legacy) PF-2551l for the standard NZ bands. Thought must be too easy!
Swapping the units, which have the same plugs (not necessarily the same wires though!) proved to make both the McIntosh display and the upper Nav screen (Still in Japanese) just flash and will not work.... Quickly turn off....
After much thought and studying most of the Internet and with a little help from Jeremy I figured that the 4062 will have, being a later unit, a lot of stuff that integrates with the Jap Nav gear, and that it all connects through the 20 pin J800 socket that has a heap of wires that I've not traced, but they connect to the Bus, what ever smarts are therein, no doubt the intermediate SWC smarts (not found how Subaru interface the control with the HU, but probably academic) and the Nav and who knows what else. The more common Subaru 20 pin plug J901 just has the power lights and antenna amp power - all essential to run the Head Unit.
So....Legacy PF-2551l will run fine in a JDM Outback as an interim radio for me. Woot. (without steering wheel controls connected) when one simply does not plug in the back J800 plug - for anyone wanting to try that. Will keep me going for now.
For the planned Double Din install I've bought a "junk" PF-4062l from Croooober for its sockets, especially the 20pin DIN wired female socket. My original thought was to use all the sockets as that would smooth the interconnection, now that expectation I've now pretty much shown to probably be wrong so arguably it was an expensive 20pin DIN, but then seems they're not otherwise available at any price.... Part of the cost! For anyone wanting to also do this conversion I figure a junked EF-1208l amp could also be used as a 20pin DIN socket part source for the HU end to run to the Mac amp being used in the car. That would have been cheaper for me, but committed now. There's currently a cheap one going to the first taker....
I bought some RCA leads which I'll splice into the newly imported DIN plug lead at HU end which I figure will be robust enough. Also will need to feed the amp on (I assume) with the +12V "Power on" to turn the amp on. Plan to find the Original Subaru GPS existing device and swap it with the new Kenwood one. Seems no point installing the digital antenna on the windscreen as I think (open to correction) there is no digital audio around to connect to in New Zealand, especially the Wellington region. Yet to resolve issues anticipated. The McIntosh kitted 'rus feature 4 speakers in each front door. The Kenwood has some rel sophisticated frequency smarts for feeding different speakers different frequencies, particularly to protect tweeters. But they don't go so far as 4 different speakers per front channel with intermediate single feeding amp channels(!). I don't know but expect there is a crossover network in each front door (anyone know?) which'll do the frequency distribution just fine. So that leaves me with the expected question of what cut off frequency to feed the sub woofer, and whether I trim any base of the four door channels. It might all just work without fiddling with any EQ. Not yet figured out what to do with the Nav unit, expect the Backing CAM works and is appreciated, all be it at a liney resolution. Be nice to have a 720p front and rear cameras with the front one thru a replacement 720p screen mounted between the vents, and the higher defn rear cam thru the Kenwood. Not figured that bit out. Comments welcomed.
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