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This got a few comments on the FB Page so we'll carry on here eh?   Theories & conspiracies lets GO!   https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/politics/how-the-government-is-preparing-to-ditch-petrol-tax-move-all-cars-to-road-user-charges/ILWBW5WS75A4ZN6V4GLFM2QLRA/     "Electronic" monitoring what?!

yes that is one option, still I will run the standalone any day of the week. But for everyone else, a reflash with everything stock is more than enough, go with speed density is always going to be more expensive, normally you will want a “bigger” map (to have more room), and you have to install a IAT sensor, for most is a deal breaker.

Why not just flash the stock ecu to use map and not maf with something MerpMod. Then you can tune without those limitations.

Idle is always crap after a reset as it needs to relearn so don’t look too closely into that.  Those learning view corrections are a bit high but not in the idle region    Have you got an aftermarket intake or anything on the car? The two mid figures would indicate something not 100% right  But since they’re still in a region where you’re not really making positive pressure in the manifold it doesn’t specifically point to a leak.    This is based on how it looks in the old windows program but still helpful.    

I really want to do some testing with a sti, with all the sensors, test some turbo inlets, intercoolers, etc. Thats why I am after a STI, hopefully we can do something this year. For your power levels, yeah I will first try the stock intercooler, and if you want more performance, waterspray like the old V7-10 sti is a good option. When you go with an aftermarket ECU you can push the tune more, and still be reliable, this is because you can actually measure the air temperature that is going into the engine, and work your corrections of that (ignition been the big one), vs the stock ecu that is reading the IAT from the maf, which is located before everything, is pretty much reading ambient temperature (not quite but is going to be close when you are driving). So for example, when you are doing a run on the street, lets say second-third-fourth,  your intake temperature (real measure after the intercooler) could be 10 degrees, at the time you are into third you are at 30 and in fourth you are already on the 55 area, with the aftermarket ECU you can start with all the power, and then just as the temperature goes up reduce the power (to keep the engine from knocking), reducing the timing accordingly. But with the stock ecu, because is not actually reading the IAT where it should, you have to tune the car like it was the worst-case scenario, most likely like if it was 55 degrees. And then also with a good aftermarket ecu and the knock sensor, you can know what cylinder is knocking, and just adjust that cylinder, I have done the test, of having the car tune without tuning per cylinder, and then tuning each cylinder to make the most out of the engine (with the same safe margin), and on a stock sti (just bolts on, so around the 220-230kw mark) you can see between 5-10kw difference in power everywhere.