boostin

And from the other side of the coin as a Winger tech.... A lot of the time we get told to check and clear the code, check for anything obvious and kick it out. They'll get the cust to monitor. What the front counter people tell you, we don't know.

Yep it got raped at Taupo 5+ years ago, had the front pads smoking, and I'm still running the same set of front discs with no warping or machining. I only just replaced the pads a year or two ago too! Yes it needs a cert, but try your luck first. I doubt you'll get pinged on it.

When you get donated a couple of terabyte drives.

Wastegate sensor?

I prefer the import look. Looks classier than NZ new. Front fogs are first click up, symbol on the cluster is usually green, shows a dipped beam through fog. Rear fog is second click up that auto returns to first position, and symbol on the cluster is orange, showing a level or direct beam through fog.

Possibly a dodgy crank angle sensor. If the ecu doesn't get a signal from it, it assumes the engine isn't running or cranking so doesn't fire injectors or coils. It also doesn't throw a code unless it fails while running. The ecu looks for crank angle first to determine where the pistons are on the stroke, then cam angle to determine which stroke, then water temp to adjust injection quantity. If there's no crank signal, it doesn't look for the rest.

Worst comes to worst, trim the pipe. Yes that flared end is there to stop the hose coming off, but with the pump in place, where's it going to go? Double up the clamps if you're that concerned.

I've struck this a lot. Not sure if they're supposed to be factory fitted or not, but when doing the PDI from new, I've found heaps not fitted and the plate in the glovebox. I would just rivet them on, but I don't know what other techs did. There's nothing to say it has to have it, there's a stamped VIN on the firewall.

A second-hand one will have the wrong chassis number. Do you really need it? The only way to get the correct one would be to get Subaru Japan to stamp up a new one, but I'd imagine there would be more than a few hoops to jump through....

Best you get it looked at asap. Any decent workshop should have that nailed down pretty quickly.

I bought his 3.0R because.... um..... I was looking for a 3L auto Outback and bought a lowered manual sedan. Go figure. But the 3.0 is great for towing with heaps of low down torque. I drive it everywhere in 6th, and downshift to 5th for intersections. It pulls away smoothly and easily from idle. The turbo engines are a bit too stressed for my liking. The 6 is as happy at idle as it is at 7000rpm.

Got pics?

Check it cold. Make sure the radiator is full and the bottle is on the full mark. Check it next time the same way, always at dead cold.

Your first issue is too many turbos. If it's just steam, as in water vapour, don't worry. Sign of a healthy engine. Burning coolant stinks, and really stings the eyes, so you'd know if it was that. Oil smoke is blueish, so again, you'd know. Maybe time for a pressure test to pinpoint that coolant leak? If the pressure drops, clamp the lines on both sides of the turbo. If the pressure drop stops, you've found your leak.

And blocking up the filter. If your engine is that badly gunked up, your options are either service it as normal and hope for the best, or replacement now, or full strip down, clean and reassemble with new seals and gaskets and whatever bearings and rings looked dicey.

5psi is below wastegate spring pressure? Did you replace the manifold gaskets?

Foresters have softer subframe mounting bushes than other models. I've heard that they're quite strange to drive when towing a decent weight! The subframes get all squirmy!

Check all wiring connections back to the ecu. Make sure they're all clean and dry. Check for water in the fuel tank and rails. Check the injectors while you're there too. Try a reset on the ecu in case it's learned some bad data.

Mine is a normal triangle key, but that's not what I'm talking about.

I didn't say reprogram, I said clone. What does what look like?

I finally got to ask a locksmith about cloning the push button start remotes. Currently he can do BL/BP remotes, but either he doesn't have the equipment or it's not available or possible to clone BM/BR remotes.

F*** I could have sworn mine has R160 rear. Will have to check next time I service it.

Custom axles? Sounds like $$$$ to me....

No, will defo be a failed centre diff. Poor design imo. They're all much of a muchness.

Legacy 6 speeds have R160 rear anyway.