Technikhaus

That's awesome. Did you have muddies/atrs on the SF5?

Nice! Now go find some twisties to drive!

That's a fantastic result. I bet it's way more fun to drive now. Quite crazy what a basic remap will do.

Jeeze what a pain! Awesome feeling to have it running though I bet.

Ah that's fair! if it didn't go right into the hot and stay there, then I'd say you're fine. haven't had any issues since?

Straight from the radiator cap maybe? Never hurts to buy new ones, not too expensive, and rules them out.

I use Blacks Fasteners quite often, well priced and massive variety available. Not sure if there's one near you? https://www.blacksfasteners.co.nz/

I typically just scrapped the remnants of one of those engines sorry!

Best Feeling EVER!

Go on... they look great with roof racks. I've been tempted myself!

Yeah that'll work fine! Note that the roll pin can be a PITA to remove from under the car, and that it's a dual-roll pin, so have to knock out the center one first, then the outer one.

Yeah sadly with more modern cars it's just too much of a mess, often the transmission mounts themselves will be completely different. Also 100% will need a cert, technically changing the brake pedal in any car requires a cert As much as it sucks, the best/potentially only option is to sell it and upgrade...

I often use Partsouq to find the parts, and buy through Amayama.com they tend to stock, or at least say they stock it more often. Just put through an order yesterday of things that Partsouq said they didn't have, so will see when they get back to me...

Just thought I'd update this with some info I've found, as I'm putting a newer setup in mine since the newer joint is easy to get (PN: 35047AC030). Subaru changed the shift linkages around 1996/1997. Running a couple of Chassis Codes in Amayama I found the images of the two. You can swap between the two styles, but you need the entire shift assembly; the Joint, rod, and selector: < 1996: >= 1997:

Yup from memory it can be removed with ECUflash and a tactrix cable.

You make me want a 3D printer even more, quite a few things I've wanted to print in the past, and just can't ever get myself to pull the plug...

Hey! So that's actually me selling those I can double check the length tomorrow, but according to NZEFI, they're 64mm from the middle of each o-ring, can measure over-all length tomorrow. They're classed as full-length injectors, I'm unsure if a v11 needs full or mid-length.

Done quite often in the GC8s for rally, bolts right up, but you'll need to do a harness merge, or aftermarket ECU to run it.

Ooh nice! That's good to hear!

Ahh, wasn't sure if you were previously there, and now here, or the other way haha. Yeah NPD do 100 now at many stations in the south island, so would be quite interesting to see! Sadly we sold our 3.0 a few years back so can't test it sorry!

I'm curious if you could get your hands on some NPD 100 if that would have the same affect, I'm assuming you're north island though?

Aww man, I'd love to do that setup! Sadly it's just too much, as I'd still need to get new injectors, and that'd force me to go FMIC, so another cost there too, as I doubt that FMIC setup would fit. It'd tempting to stay with the VF22 until I can do something along those lines, but the risk of it disintegrating on me is always on my mind, as it would be with a Chinese turbo too.

To get the most out of them, yeah, but I'm not too worried about getting 400KW, everything else would need upgraded first. but maybe one day. Don't really have a goal, just whatever I can afford to get 😂. The more the merrier, it's only a toy. My main restriction being the Turbo. Eventually (in years to come) I'll go full twisted garret or holset etc, but for now just wanting something fun to get it on the road, and enjoy the lag that I'm sure it'll have with these cams.

So with the car now running I'm looking at options for turbos, I'm running @snwmbl's old heads with 282 cams (https://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/54135-fs-v4-sti-heads-w-kelford-cams/) Currently have VF22 which is far too small for these. I'd like to keep stock placement, and would rather stay under $1k for the turbo, second hand is fine. Although I did consider the chinese TD06's you can get for <1K, IE these. The short block is a 2L CDB, bored out 1mm O/S, with forged rods/pistons. Currently running Pink top feeds, but considering getting some EV1 1000cc. Fuel pump is a DW200, running 100RON. Any thoughts/opinions?

EJ25 block with EJ22 heads and EJ18 cams, one of the best N/A frankenstein combos you can get I was also told that the Ej20/22/25 ECUs can all cope with that combo too, as I was looking to do it to my old 2.2 Legacy for club sport stuff.