boon

Get a VF30 or a VF34 if you can find one and call it done. The TD05's and stuff that the American's have a massive boner for are dinosaur turbos and a waste of time, even if you pay stupid money for one with billet wheels and sundry other magic beans sprinkled over it. EDIT: There are virtually nil stock-location upgrades that don't start with VF that are worth doing.

Holy balls, $313 for a MAC valve with a sticker on it, I think I paid like $60 for mine?

Honestly the third gen interior feels more solid. The 4th Gen (can we start calling them by their chassis designation? I assume we're talking BP/BL and BH/BE?) is way more plasticy, and has issues like the dashes cracking like a crazy thing, especially if imported from somewhere that got properly cold like the northern end of Japan. Setting that aside, the BP/BL is a way, way better car. Especially if you get a somewhat "specced" one with the leather or part leather interior... I'm assuming they all come with Bilsteins and the simply enormous front brakes? The 5EAT kinda sucks in stock form, but if you get the firmware update from Subaru and drive it in "Sport" then it's a bit better.

I've been to some fairly high end workshops and noticed they have tags on the steering wheels saying stuff like DO NOT CRANK NO OIL. Never hurts to have a little reminder. In fact I'm pretty sure I've seen photos from Prodrive of something similar.

Please please put like a hanger tag on the steering wheel that says "put a proper crown nut on the control arm" With long running projects it's so easy to forget all the awesome little things like this that we do, and then you completely forget about it until 3 years later the ball joint pops out when you're going hunnits.

Something bizarre going on here. The pump is at the bottom of the tank, not like it needs bleeding or anything. Maybe just run it for a while.

Because I am chronic for raining on parades, I think that you would end up spending more on the transmission than the entire rest of the car cost. For the same money you could just swap in a boring old manual box and make the car way way faster instead. So unless you're going for maximum novelty value, or you don't really care about money, it's probably dead in the water before you even start.

That's 100% down to whoever did the paperwork when they registered it. You get all that crap basically from people copy/pasting from the import paperwork - no requirement for it whatsoever.

This feels like spam. There is quite a lot of astroturfing on the internet relating to 4wheelonline. Are you a spammer?

There is a N/A "WRX", kinda vomit but yeah....

I probably wouldn't go cane it like that but honestly I can't see it hurting the car significantly until you get yourself a new thermostat. Just be glad your problem is your car being too cool, not too hot EDIT: You can probably get a little more heat into it by running the aircon hard, if you don't mind freezing...

No wonder it didn't work, they're very picky about the O2 sensor. If they had to do a hacky bodge then it's because it wasn't the right sensor for the car. Honestly I'd be buying a correct sensor for it, then get a plug with 20cm of wiring still attached from a wrecker and reinstating the factory setup. Won't be hard to match up that way either.

I believe so. I don't know how this is a terribly big issue... the length thing is solved in about 6 minutes with a welder, and maybe a short length of stainless steel pipe.

Go gettem'. CSI:ClubSub strikes again?

Just go back to court and say I have this ruling and they haven't paid me. Make it the bailiff's problem. Any additional costs just get added to the amount due; the courts take a very dim view of people just dodging their rulings. If they're on the benefit you can even get an "attachment" where you get paid directly before they even receive the money; when they're a deadbeat that really stings, especially if you can get an aggressive payment schedule going on. Leads to fun stuff where they rip someone off so they can pay their court-ordered dues (happened on here once) and nek minnit they're going to jail, it's a fun process dealing to s***bags.

Ahh, I should have clarified... it looks very much to be a Defi gauge branded Subaru and it says "Boost" instead of "Turbo" at the end of the range. It's really, really expensive for what it is, if I'm correct.

I'm 99% sure they're just a Defi 2-bar gauge.

I think the original video is, but then that deeply stupid DIY & Crafts page has posted it as if it's serious?

Damn... that channel posts some complete s*** but that takes the cake.

How the f*ck is it legal with no wing mirrors? Thought you had to have at least 2 out of 3 mirrors? Also man that's a lot of effort gone into building something, erm, pretty unique. The lines around the rear fender flares look like at least 3L of bog was used on each side

I don't know enough about Legacy ECUs to really make an informed comment there; @Andy_Mac will know. As far as I know, with _some_ models you can reflash with what's called a "Speed Density" tune, where the fueling is calculated based on Manifold Air Pressure plus an intake air temperature sensor for compensation. You probably have a stock MAP sensor somewhere near the throttle body, but it would make sense to get an aftermarket one and wire it in on the same wiring the stock one uses. Seriously, AFM with twisted is a bastard of a thing, I think quite a lot of people that insist on the misery of trying to do it go to "blow through" and put it in the intercooler plumbing (assuming you're also going to a front-mount intercooler?)

If you're putting the AFM into a 3" pipe you'll have to tune it anyway to scale the AFM, in which case you need a tunable ECU, which means either a Link if you're in an older car or a reflash which can change you to speed density in a newer vehicle, so regardless you may as well throw the AFM in the bin (or on Trademe, whatever). Trying to do twisted setups with an AFM leads to misery and s*** running and eventually deleting the AFM anyway.

Well I have a full carpet to replace the frankly pretty flogged out one in the car, so maybe this is a good excuse to pull the seats out anyway. Job for the weekend perhaps. Nice to see that the mechanism is pretty well exposed, rather than buried in the depths of the seat.

Mine seems secure enough but the vertical adjustment just makes a horrible noise and does nothing, likely broken welds or something else going on in there? I never use the vertical adjust so it hadn't bothered to dig into it much yet.

Bulletproof? Heaps of the Bosch ABS pumps (which have the ABS computer built in) are flaky as f***. They use that "angel hair" wire between the connector and the PCB and they fail at random. I'll wager a shiny internet penny that the ABS computer is f*cked.