s***, help in chch with brake pads?

[aim]

Ok, well some of you may(or may not) know I'm a poor student with limited tool access, I'm also selling my BD5a. So I took someone for a test drive and the brakes started squealing. Talk about bad luck... hehe. So if anyone can pass some advice to what pads to buy (keeping in mind I'm selling the car)? And maybe lend a hand (and tools) with changing them? I've changed pads before, but only on a '74 MG, I suspect they're a tad simpler?

Cheers,

aim

[jacsmiley]

assuming you dont have four pots?? and if not you probly have single/double piston calipers which are simple if you're mechanically minded. they're just a bit fidly

buy cheap/expensive pads if you want or buy OE (genuine) up to you. your wallet is your limit.

your selling the car

i wouldnt have a clue what MG brakes are like but the majority of brake calipers are bolted to the wheel hub buy two bolts 14mm i think??? but you should be able to get away with any old socket set, a big pair of polly grips or a g-clamp (ive had F-4pots/R-2pots for years and they're simple and easy. no need for tools really)

what condition are your rotors (discs) in? thinkness of the rotor? they need to be over the minimum thickness (youll need to find out what that is 22/24mm i think) and evenly worn (thickness between braking face and central air vent. each side should be even thinkness there or about) are the braking surfaces flat, or wavey with small grooves like stones have been previously stuck? if theyre not flat you'll need to get them machined flat. or you can do it by halves and just leave them. but they should be machined at least

loosen both 14mm bolts and remove the bottom one allowing the caliper and pads to hinge up (you may need to undo the clip holding the brake line to the strut)

if it fouls (hits) anything you'll need to undo the 2nd 14mm bolt and remove caliper completely

CAUTION dont let the caliper hang by the brake line as you could damage it causing brake failure!

you should have floating rotors, and at this stage you should be able to remove them now to get them machined if they need to be

leave the piston side pad in and use the polly grips/Gclamp to depress the piston/s back using the pad as a guard for the piston (may take a bit to move them back in at first)

now the used pads have clips and plates holding them "snug" into the caliper. you need to re-use these so be carefull not to damage/loose them. basically use everything that comes off the old pads on the replacement ones.

with both pads in, slide the caliper back onto the rotor and re-position the caliper back to original position and reassemble everything that you removed

providing your braking system is in good health. what ive said above should get you through.

good luck! if at any stage you think "that doesnt seem right" ask someone!

[jacsmiley]

the squeeling noise was probably the wear indicators. two bent peices of steel that "scratch/squeel" against the rotor when the pad wears down. ive only just bent mine out of the way to stop the noise and have ordered replacements today actually!!

[Mikesti]

yip i would say wear in dicators are touching the discs.

chuck a set of front pads.

45-50 bucks at bnt and for a six pack of 8% woodies and ill put them in.

[jacsmiley]

 Mikesti said:

yip i would say wear in dicators are touching the discs.

chuck a set of front pads.

45-50 bucks at bnt and for a six pack of 8% woodies and ill put them in.

good man!!

[aim]

Thans for the info guys! I have a flight out today, but when I'm back, I may just take up your offer mike.

[nickch]

i've always wondered what importance the metal shims/plates lining the back of the pads have?

[swiftbrad]

 nickch said:

i've always wondered what importance the metal shims/plates lining the back of the pads have?

Not much, use copper slip with or instead of shims

[Treecrusher]

There is always the dogy second hand cars sales approch of removing the wear tabs, there is still good meat on the pads when those kick in so is somewhat safe.

Also you can change the pads much easier without removing the calipers. Two 12mm bolts I think and a pair of vice grips and you can swap the pads out in about 2 minutes.

[WRXER]

Yeah I clipped mine off, they still had some decent meat on mine. And for the interim whilst my new pads were on their way it did the trick nicely.

Yup it's easy changing pads, didnt even need vice grips for mine. Just removed the wheel, take off the brass clip,push the pistons back with a flat head screw driver, chucked in new pads, pumped the pedal a few times and done. Easy as, even I can do it and Im a muppet with breaking shit at the best of times on my subbi.

[chickinsteelcaps]

I'll be dead keen for a cruise...DO IT!!

[Treecrusher]

 chickinsteelcaps said:

I'll be dead keen for a cruise...DO IT!!

????? Did you get the right thread?

[Hailz]

Mate if you've got the 294mm discs I've got a set of genuine front pads that have about 7mm of meat left on them you can have for nothing aye, they're just sitting in my garage after I changed to ultimates, let me know, might save you a couple of dollars

[aim]

lol keen, but can someone tell me if I have 294mm?

[Koom]

One way to really be sure.....

My BG5b has 294mm rotors. I think the BG5a had 277mm ones.

[aim]

I'm in a dressing gown haha - bloody shit weather, will check tomorrow when it's dry

[Treecrusher]

Is yours the '94/95 model right? if it is it will have the smaller rotors. The larger rotors were installed on the +'96 GTB legacy along with a lot of other "wrx sti" type parts.

I think I have some pads for the smaller type in the garage. I will check in the morning for you.