sti ver6 boost

[G-unit]

just checkd and the 1 on bottom goes into the intake pipe and blue hose going 2 turbo etc

[funkytown]

 G-unit']

just checkd and the 1 on bottom goes into the intake pipe and blue hose going 2 turbo etc

[quote name='gazzy2000 said:

the one on the bottom of teh noid goes to the Turbo 'T" joiner (with pill etc) the one on the side of the noid (on a right angle) goes to inlet hose (the bleed off)

then its backwards by the sounds of it.

[gazzy2000]

 funkytown']

just checkd and the 1 on bottom goes into the intake pipe and blue hose going 2 turbo etc

[quote name='gazzy2000 said:

the one on the bottom of teh noid goes to the Turbo 'T" joiner (with pill etc) the one on the side of the noid (on a right angle) goes to inlet hose (the bleed off)

/quote]

then its backwards by the sounds of it.

yur, swap those fukers ;D be good if that fixes it, let us know!

[G-unit]

well i abit more boost, 0.6bar now was 0.5bar, code 32 is 02 sensor, would that put it in limp mode?

[gazzy2000]

 G-unit said:

well i abit more boost, 0.6bar now was 0.5bar, code 32 is 02 sensor, would that put it in limp mode?

na, dont think 02 wud put you in limp mode, you can just unplug it for now, it will run slighty rich.

WUd rather have it unplugged and slightly rich that having it plugged in and giving a real false reading..

[G-unit]

also when i tryed the reset, i hooked up plugs,drove got code 32 drove home stoped car and unpluged, that a reset or just fault finding?

i get about 550ks per tank of gas

[G-unit]

bugger knows then, maybe sum1 at the laws road drags could have a look over the car and do a reset or summin, im stumped on what it is now

[gazzy2000]

 G-unit said:

also when i tryed the reset, i hooked up plugs,drove got code 32 drove home stoped car and unpluged, that a reset or just fault finding?

i get about 550ks per tank of gas

think you are meant to drive over 11kph for over a minute and not over 40kph

[gazzy2000]

 G-unit said:

bugger knows then, maybe sum1 at the laws road drags could have a look over the car and do a reset or summin, im stumped on what it is now

have you got a LED hooked up to the noid, going in side the car?

[G-unit]

oh waaat, i read sumwhere on here 2 drive in 100k area, but only over 11ks

[G-unit]

have tested a good working solanoid and even a different boost pill,when unpluged the solanoid the check engine light comes on

[funkytown]

 G-unit said:

bugger knows then, maybe sum1 at the laws road drags could have a look over the car and do a reset or summin, im stumped on what it is now

yer sure - there will be a few of us over there for Laws rd to take a gander.

[G-unit]

sweet, does taking the ecu out reset it? ill get a new 02 sensor at sum stage,bloody thing

[G-unit]

also when the check engine flashes, is the 1st time it comes on is that classed as 1 flash coz just thinking about it, mine went on flash flash slow 2 fast, so its either 22 or 32, 22 is knock sensor

[G-unit]

would a buggered knock sensor cuase low psi? found where they are placed under the timc so ill replace it when i fit the sti tmic im getting

[gazzy2000]

 G-unit said:

would a buggered knock sensor cuase low psi? found where they are placed under the timc so ill replace it when i fit the sti tmic im getting

IIRC teh code for knock sensors only shows up if the sensor is stuffed, not if the signal is screwy.

Regarless of that..... The knock sensor is a protective device/sensor of which the ECU relies heaily on to detect det, so the ECU cud put you in safe mode to protect itself if the it thinks/knows the sensor is faulty, which wud make sense

[G-unit]

took it out before, 1st time driving it since reset etc, hit 1.3bar in 4th then went back 2 0.6bar and is staying at that in every gear, possibly thats what my ecu is set at,1.3bar but then went back into safe mode

[gazzy2000]

 G-unit said:

took it out before, 1st time driving it since reset etc, hit 1.3bar in 4th then went back 2 0.6bar and is staying at that in every gear, possibly thats what my ecu is set at,1.3bar but then went back into safe mode

is that with a new knock sensor?

[G-unit]

no ill have 2 order 1, my town is small,wont be any here sadly, but im piking it learnt the knock sensor is buggered again after the reset

what do they cost also?

[gazzy2000]

 G-unit said:

no ill have 2 order 1, my town is small,wont be any here sadly, but im piking it learnt the knock sensor is buggered again after the reset

what do they cost also?

dunno, you cud borrow a known good one?

also they have to be torgued to about 24NM IIRC

[G-unit]

so i cant just replace it myself?

no only mate with sti will be down on saturday, his a ver4 sti, the same sensor?

[gazzy2000]

 G-unit said:

so i cant just replace it myself?

no only mate with sti will be down on saturday, his a ver4 sti, the same sensor?

i wud hazzard a guess and say yes they are the same.

yea man just replace yrself easy as, just remember the angle the knock sensor is facing before u remove it and fit the other one the same... and it is 24NM...i just checked

[G-unit]

wat ill do is go see my electricain and geta price for it and price for it fitted, would do it myself but have no torque rench, will ask around tho, thanks

[gazzy2000]

from one of my other posts regarding torque settings for it:

Although the knock sensor is tuned* to pick up the vibrations caused by knock, typically around 4KHz, it is possible for a knock sensor to 'hear' other signals which the ECU interprets as knock.

Things that are loose, rattling or impacting together can confuse a knock sensor.

As the ignition advance map is adaptive, it is possible for the ECU to learn an incorrect mapping if the knock sensor is hearing things.

*The sensor may be tuned by torquing the attachment bolt is the bolt is mechanically in parallel with the piezo crystal. If the bolt is too loose, or too tight, the centre frequency of the sensor can be incorrect, so the sensor might pickup the valve train noise rather than knocking, for example.

Also, as the knock sensor signals are very small, they are easily swamped by electrical interference and noise. The noise may be interpreted by the ECU as knock. I have ended up fitting metal braiding over the knock sensor wires, effectively extending the ECU metal casing all the way to the sensor, in order to shield out electrical noise in one particularly difficult case.

[gazzy2000]

also man... these are the instructions i followed for restting ECU, keeping above 11kph

ECU Reset

On early MYs (especially pre MY97) the ECU retards the ignition when knock is detected, however, it is very slow to advance the timing again. An ECU reset will restore the car to factory default settings. This will remove any stored fault codes and restore ignition advance. It is possible to reset the ECU by following these steps:

Turn ignition OFF

Connect Read Memory Connectors & Test Mode Connectors

(jumper 5) [black connectors] – (jumper 6) [green connectors]

Turn ignition ON (engine off)

Engine Check lamp turns on

Depress accelerator pedal completely

Then return it to the half-throttle position and hold it there for two seconds

Release pedal completely

Start engine

Code is indicated by Pulsing lamp

If a fault is detected - Check ECU Code

If no fault is detected - drive the car sensible for a couple of minutes

i.e. until warm (do not run tall & do not thrash it!)

When the ECU has been reset the Check Engine Light will flash

Code is indicated by Pulsing lamp

If a fault is detected Check ECU Code

Turn ignition OFF & Disconnect Connectors

If there is a fault Check Appropriate Sensor