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DIY - Twisted Turbo Setup


Swindog
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So over the next few days, hopefully, im going to try to post up a step by step on how to complete a twisted turbo setup.

Excust the quality of some photos as you shouldnt photo and drink.

Some shots may be missing or misunderstood.

It is fairly simple providing you have access to someone who can cut and weld steel and the proper tools.

A hoist is also probably a good idea but not necessary.

For the moment until it is complete i shell lock it.

This is in aid of building up the good tech threads we used to have.

Chur.

I removed the front bumper and front mount intercooler to make life easy and the fact it just had a new paint job.

It also makes life easy to get under the car to remove the downpipe for modification and to access the up pipes two bolt flanges. Disconnect your battery. Get a container to put nuts bolts and parts in. Rescrew bolts into factory positions where you can, this eleminates loosing them or forgetting where they go.

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So. Loosen all the bolts and lines connected to the turbo. Some of these will be tough! Use CRC Penetrator when you can and a strong arm and some muscle. There will be a couple that you need to get from underneath the car.

Once you have them loosened i recommend removing the rear bolts for the down pipe that sit half way back under the car.

Undo all the lines. Some water and oil may spill so have rags and a tray ready. Remove the turbo. Remove the up pipe (See below) Remove the down pipe after disconnecting the sensor from the plug. Manipulate the pipe and take it out from under the car. Be careful of the CV boot that sits below the pipe when it drops.

Undo the uppipe bracket via the 14mm bolt. This one is tough! Take the bracket off to access the oil feed banjo bolt. Leave it as is for now. (If ungrading the turbo a larger diameter oil feed line may be necessary)

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This pic is the 2 bolt flange in behind the drivers front wheel. This is the start point of the uppipe. Depending on whose been at it the bolts could be anywhere from 14 - 17 mm. Unbolt after turbo has been removed. There is a gasket here that needs to be replaced when replacing modifed uppipe. Subaru again stock these gaskets. Be aware there are two sizes of this gaskets. Dytech Mufflers ( http://www.dminternational.co.nz/performance_manifolds.phtml ) Sell a modified uppipe ready to go with the twist all ready to go. This may save time. This depends on your wastegate setup. Further info to follow.

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Next we need to clean up the engine bay. Replace all the tools youve just used.

Then, we need to remove the factory turbo inlet pipe. The front of this pipe is connected to the pod filter or factory airbox.

The other is directly onto the turbos compressor housing via a hose clamp. This should by now be disconnected and only connected via the vaccum lines onto the manifold. Label and disconnect these vacuum lines. Some, especially the big pipe at the rear of the manifold will behard to remove. Take your time not to damage any other lines.

Now you have to hack up the stock pipe to remove. By means of some knipers or gib saw cut off the titties that stick up. Unbolt the 14mm bolt at the front, just behind the power steering cylinder. Cut pipe just behind the power steering, being careful not to cut other pipes or lines and pull the pipe out the back of the manifold. This is difficult to remove, so becareful and patient!

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So we spent some time on the up pipe. We looked at how big the turbo was and where it would fit in relation to where the uppipe sits when attached properly back onto the headers. As you can see below we have cut and extended the pipe and made sure the turbo sits level once the uppipe is bolted up. We cut the weld from the flange and then slid the uppipe inside the flange and tacked it as when fully welded this will be the strongest. This took awhile so be patient. We tack welded as we went and marked everything if we couldnt tack in place. The straight piece is 120mm long. The bend is a random piece from the workshop which just happened to work.

It would pay to buy some bends from Autobend to work with it. I would suggest Stainless 2 inch in a 90 and 2 45's. They should be $20 each. We left this tacked for the moment with the turbo mounted in place.

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When your done with the uppipe it should sit as below. As every setup will differ with different versions you will have to be patient with how it is done. You can slight lean back or lean forward the turbo without damaging it later on whilst running.

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With the following pic of the downpipe it pays to know how it hooks up properly as youll be doing it alot! I spent a night getting up and down under the car to bolt it up and match the pipes up both with the down pipe and exhaust pipe off the turbo.

It took some effort to get this matching exactly and the top exhaust pipe of the exhaust housing needed to be shaped slightly as the Autobend 90deg i bought has a wider radius than most. We didnt have the capacity to bend such a big pipe as a mandrel so we bought a 90deg and a 45deg from Autobend at a cost of $40 each. Take your time. Line them up. Make sure your going to miss things like the clutch cylinder. Start from the bottom pipe work towards to top. Once you have a start and finish point the filling in part is easy.

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From here we looked at moving the wastegate up to beside the downpipe. This gets tight now and Gary did an awesome job of sorting it out! The pictures below show how we sorted this prob out and again a couple bends from Autobend sorted us out. Again its fiddly so take your time. Line things up properly and you wont have a prob. Gary had things lined so well that when it went together the downpipe was snug against the wastegate flange and it bolted straight on as per the last pic here.

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  • 5 weeks later...
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So below is the bolt up.

Once everything was bolted up tight we tacked the exhaust flange to the floating uppipe part. This shot shows without the turbo in place but you get the idea.

You have to check and recheck to save cutting welds and redoing.

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So once everything was ready i bolted the uppipe in. I sat the turbo on and i wrapped the down pipe.

I never thought id do the downpipe and this is by no means a performance thing. Its merely to reduce temperatures against the firewall and clutch cylinder as its that close. Before you wrap it dont forget to weld on the the O2 sensor nut and in the right place for your wiring! It should be a 22mm spanner.

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And this is the end result!

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Once done all the lines where hooked up. New hoses where put on which i bought from Enzed along with some banjo fittings and the like. Make sure all your hoses sit nice and your route the other lines so they avoid the hot spots of the turbo. All the intercooler piping was hooked up and made sure it was secure with no leaks.

Took it for a test run and all was good. Put all the body back on and run it in for 200km before adding boost. So far its still on 12psi as the flow has been increased so much the 38mm bov wont handle and it surges so im adding a Tial 50mm in the next week.

All in all it took a week doing it at nights. It wasnt painful to do you just have to remember to be careful and patient. If you have the welder welding on the car make sure your earth is good as you can fuse the bearings together if your not careful!

Having the right experience in the guys makes life a dam sight easy too as Gary is a master of his trade and is more than happy to do more twisted turbo setups in the future.

Give him a call at South Coast Customs Invercargill - 0210728338.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Havent wound it out yet as i have a surge prob related to the BOV but once i can wind the boost up i dare say as the setups good for 450-500hp. Still will need a decent tune to see or feel any result. BUt it certainly drives better, way more responsive and boost comes on way faster and stronger.

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Guest corrieoo

a more simple way of doing thie is just making up a rise adapter witha twist in it. takes buger all time and does same thing. will post pics in next few days

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  • 4 weeks later...
 Swindog said:

not realy anything to do with the intercooler.

you will need to fabricate the downpipe off the rear of the turbo if thats what your talking about?

the intercooler pipes it has to do with, they will need re-routing. basically everything that connects to the turbo will need to be modified in some way.

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  • 1 month later...
 Swindog said:

Steve Murch special - td05 exhaust housing td06 compressor housing 22g wheel.

Tis large.

I used to have the identical setup with the 20g, and my mate has the 22g like yours. Awesome turbos, what did the build cost these days, I want to get another 20g built...

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 WRX8YA']

[quote name='Swindog said:

Steve Murch special - td05 exhaust housing td06 compressor housing 22g wheel.

Tis large.

/quote]

I used to have the identical setup with the 20g, and my mate has the 22g like yours. Awesome turbos, what did the build cost these days, I want to get another 20g built...

Bout $200 for the bends as i plumbed the external back in.

$1500 for the new turb.

$80 for the oil line.

$20 ish for new water and oil return lines.

Enough to give the wallet a hiding, as i just had the front half repainted before the build lol. Not a happy wifey wifey.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest SPANKU

this is a really good info. thanks for that.

im just about to start on my one. brought a huge Apexi RX6 turbo ( IHI RHX6 known the be the biggest IHI turbo ) with a P18 exhaust housing.

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  • 8 months later...

hey i have a to4e im tryna fit in there. anyone have any advice for me. i would really like it done the easiest way . as i have a race in 2 weekends haha..but again i want it done well. the turbo has to have my wastegate str8 off the back of the exhasut turbine housing.any help would be great

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