New AVCS Issue (V7-on) oil feed

[Guest]

As a few of you are now finding there can be issues with poor performance, rough idle etc that are caused by an issue with the AVCS system

In the below picture you will see the oil feed to the L/H AVCS actuator valve - note my grubby finger pointing to the banjo bolt

Inside this banjo bolt is a screen filter for the oil supply to the AVCS valve See pic below

This filter can fall out of the bolt and goes straight into the AVCS valve underneath it, jamming its moduation control for the AVCS system

Causing either full advance, full retard, or no avcs application applied

FIX

Those of you already having issues, remove the banjo bolt (note 2x copper washers) and ease the pipe to the side about 15mm (dont bend the pipe)

remove the basket, by gently easing the AVCS valve (the valve is spring loaded, which is why it holds onto the filter basket)

Once the basket is out, reassemble - refit the banjo bolt with the copper washers x2 correctly under and on top of pipe fitting

Strat engine and check for leaks

Those of you not having a prob yet - remove the bolt and remove the filter basket, reasemble as above

[DRFVDR]

Oh look that looks like the same as the filter that clogs up on the intake side of the lift pumps on some diesel engines was a bad idea then and i see it still is now...

[Guest]

yep ive done that to my ones also awhile ago. Thanks Rick

[Guest]

Some one want to "sticky' this thread also ?

[mattapo]

cheers for that, i stickied that one for ya.

[jpar196]

in the interest of preventing leaks, anyone know the part number for the copper washers? or the correct size to use ? would be just handy to have then before the removal rather than rushing off to find one that fits

[Muff Slayer]

Does this issue throw a CEL light?

I have vowed not to fix something unless its broken :-\

[Guest]

 jpar196 said:

in the interest of preventing leaks, anyone know the part number for the copper washers? or the correct size to use ? would be just handy to have then before the removal rather than rushing off to find one that fits

12mm copper washers. I'll send you some with the sensors next week if your worried

But they are good to re-use no problem at all

[Guest]

 Muff Slayer said:

Does this issue throw a CEL light?

I have vowed not to fix something unless its broken :-\

This wont throw a code until it blocks the valve modulation and the cam goes to max advance/retard

This is an easy check on most cars ( some you need to loosen the injector cover plate (noise plate)

[DRFVDR]

 Ichi Ban']

[quote name='jpar196 said:

in the interest of preventing leaks, anyone know the part number for the copper washers? or the correct size to use ? would be just handy to have then before the removal rather than rushing off to find one that fits

/quote]

12mm copper washers. I'll send you some with the sensors next week if your worried

But they are good to re-use no problem at all

I personally replace them,but then I am pedantic at times

a quick trick,if you can do it is to heat them up as hot as u can get them(if they glow cherry red then awesome) as this anneals them and then they can seal better

[WRXONP]

never herd of heating copper washers ? what you can do is if the washer isn't flat any more (worn a groove) You can normally sand them smooth again and they seal perfect. . but normally if you remove them and they look flat and smooth they won't leak . just make sure sealing surfaces are clean

[DRFVDR]

yup but then I am OLD SCHOOL not a young whipper snapper I been doing this for over 20 years so u pick up a few tricks

[WRXONP]

it works . mostly what makes them leak Is when the sealing surface is un even . sand it flat again and it stops the leak every time . or get a new one cheap as chips

[madmike]

 DRFVDR said:

yup but then I am OLD SCHOOL not a young whipper snapper I been doing this for over 20 years so u pick up a few tricks

+1!

anneal every time. Never needed a new washer (unless it's destroyed of course)

[kinggts25]

Would this be a cause for bad cold running and hesitation? every other sensor has been changed (almost!)..

[Slidesector]

Is it easy to get to while engines in??

[Guest]

 Slidesector said:

Is it easy to get to while engines in??

if you have TGV (tumble generator valve or even TGV blanks) they are a mission

but a std manifold = about 30min for me

[Guest]

 kinggts25 said:

Would this be a cause for bad cold running and hesitation? every other sensor has been changed (almost!)..

cold running issues can be many many things, you'd need to see what the cams are doing when cold with a scan tool

replacing sensors for no reason is a waste of time and money - Well spent diagnostic time = heaps less stress and cheaper repairs

[kinggts25]

 Ichi Ban']

[quote name='kinggts25 said:

Would this be a cause for bad cold running and hesitation? every other sensor has been changed (almost!)..

/quote]

cold running issues can be many many things, you'd need to see what the cams are doing when cold with a scan tool

replacing sensors for no reason is a waste of time and money - Well spent diagnostic time = heaps less stress and cheaper repairs

Yeah pity i am up in auckland! I'd love to get it looked at by someone that knows what they are doing! it was the car dealership last time - replaced every sensor, claimed the diagnostics looked fine...dont believe it..

[Guest]

transport it to me, then fly down and pick it up after its fixed

[Dangeruss]

Hey I think I may be having the same problem, my v7 sti just started shaking rough at idle and kinda sounded like it was misfiring. Thought maybe it needed some new spark plugs but after changing them still have the same problem so maybe its a avsc issue.

Just wondering is the filter supposed to be shoved inside the grub screw quite tightly, I guess so it doesnt fall out? Or is it supposed to be sitting loosely at the base of where the screw screws into?

Any help is appreciated

[Guest]

 Dangeruss said:

Hey I think I may be having the same problem, my v7 sti just started shaking rough at idle and kinda sounded like it was misfiring. Thought maybe it needed some new spark plugs but after changing them still have the same problem so maybe its a avsc issue.

Just wondering is the filter supposed to be shoved inside the grub screw quite tightly, I guess so it doesnt fall out? Or is it supposed to be sitting loosely at the base of where the screw screws into?

Any help is appreciated

They are a tight fit from factory, and are fitted well into the banjo bolt

Looks like you saved yours in time

[Dangeruss]

cheers for that. Unfortunately still got the shakes/misfiring, bugger ??? Also checked plugs for oil and they're all dry as

[Guest]

start with the basics if the engines running rough and nothing obvious is wrong

#1 ECU code check

#2 Compression test

[DRFVDR]

So it is only the filter on the actuator side that needs to come out,as I found there is a filter on the head connection 2 ( might as well do these while the heads are off)