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Sloppy / Floppy shifters - DIY Guide inc'd


Swindog
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So. Ive got a floopy shifter.

Getting a couple Cobb Tuning front and rear shifter bushes from Mac at 41.

Cobb front delivered

http://www.cobbtuning.com/Subaru-5-Speed-Front-Shifter-Bushing-p/211320.htm

Cobb Rear delivered

http://www.cobbtuning.com/Subaru-Rear-Shifter-Bushing-p/211325.htm

Roughly $53 each delivered (at the current exchange rate)

Theres also the adaptor knuckle (Subaru part number 35047AC030) which the problem of the side to side stems from.

shifterjoint1.jpg

Part of the problem is you can only buy two of the four little blue bushes you need. The ones you can buy are Subaru part number 35035KA030.

I am unsure at this stage is the two you cannot replace are the exact same.

shifter-bushings-35035AA030.jpg

I have heard that you can cut the pin head (as shown on the side of the adaptor knuckle) off and replace with a bolt and resecure this way and this enables you to replace the bushes.

Problem I have is I dont know what bushes they are.

Are they the same part number as the AA030 or are they smaller as per the bottom picture (the pictures shows two large and two small)

Anyone had experience with it?

As a cost comparison the knuckle is $147+gst from subaru and the bushes are only $16 each but I have two bushes already and the Cobb Tuning bushes on their way.

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Have found this but notice out of stock.

http://www.entra.com.au/tic-5mt-linkage-update/

Theres also two different adaptors. One with a spring and one without.

Also, if you have an 05+ model, they have a bolt where the previous models have the none removable pin.

My plan is to cut off the pin head, remove it, replace the bushes and replace the pin with a bolt, in essence making the entra.com linkage.

Will update as I go through and do a step by step.

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phase 1 boxes need the spring, phase 2 don't

for phase 1 - The spring holds the gear in the middle of neutral, no spring and the gear stick flops (in neutral) between what would be 1st & 3rd

Phase 2 have a internal spring or something

if that makes sense?

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 pl0x said:

as for part numbers, as you know I got the wrong one from wingers.

Need to talk to someone onto it like boostin to get correct numbers

The two you gave me will work for the replaceable bushes by the looks. My confusion comes from the pin you cannot remove ( which ill grind off as we spoke about ) and the bushes in there.

Are they smaller as per the legacy picture or larger as per the two you gave me.

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 Swindog']

[quote name='pl0x said:

as for part numbers, as you know I got the wrong one from wingers.

Need to talk to someone onto it like boostin to get correct numbers

/quote]

The two you gave me will work for the replaceable bushes by the looks. My confusion comes from the pin you cannot remove ( which ill grind off as we spoke about ) and the bushes in there.

Are they smaller as per the legacy picture or larger as per the two you gave me.

From memory all four are the same, and you need to use another of the same bolts used to attach the shifter lever to it to replace the pin. Make sure you use a locking (aka friction) nut or it'll come undone by itself... not a mistake I'll ever make twice.

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 pl0x said:

Sorry dude can't remember, from looking at photos it appears the bigger ones are around the pin.

some good photos in here also: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=40266&start=25

Ok.

Might take this off over the weekend and sort it out.

Worst comes to worst could always pack it out with washers.

I was thinking maybe the bolts are the same which would be handy but anyway. Ill take the adaptor off and go from there and post up the findings.

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You try something similar to what a guy in the link did?

 
I epoxied the metal sleeve into where those plastic bushings were. i think i put wax or some crap on the sleeve. then once it was dry i hit the sleeve out with a hammer. then i lightly sanded the inside of the epoxy and greased it. instant solid bushing for hella cheap.
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 pl0x said:

You try something similar to what a guy in the link did?

 
I epoxied the metal sleeve into where those plastic bushings were. i think i put wax or some crap on the sleeve. then once it was dry i hit the sleeve out with a hammer. then i lightly sanded the inside of the epoxy and greased it. instant solid bushing for hella cheap.

I once wrapped a steel tube that I think was from the top of the shifter, in some thin and solid tape and used that, extremely solid shifter feel, almost painful at times, it certainly hurt if you missed during a fast shift.

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 Swindog said:

So. Ive got a floopy shifter.

Getting a couple Cobb Tuning front and rear shifter bushes from Mac at 41.

Cobb front delivered

http://www.cobbtuning.com/Subaru-5-Speed-Front-Shifter-Bushing-p/211320.htm

Cobb Rear delivered

http://www.cobbtuning.com/Subaru-Rear-Shifter-Bushing-p/211325.htm

Roughly $53 each delivered (at the current exchange rate)

Theres also the adaptor knuckle (Subaru part number 35047AC030) which the problem of the side to side stems from.

shifterjoint1.jpg

Part of the problem is you can only buy two of the four little blue bushes you need. The ones you can buy are Subaru part number 35035KA030.

I am unsure at this stage is the two you cannot replace are the exact same.

shifter-bushings-35035AA030.jpg

I have heard that you can cut the pin head (as shown on the side of the adaptor knuckle) off and replace with a bolt and resecure this way and this enables you to replace the bushes.

Problem I have is I dont know what bushes they are.

Are they the same part number as the AA030 or are they smaller as per the bottom picture (the pictures shows two large and two small)

Anyone had experience with it?

As a cost comparison the knuckle is $147+gst from subaru and the bushes are only $16 each but I have two bushes already and the Cobb Tuning bushes on their way.

my car was the king of floppy shifters once upon a time. the knuckle you have pictured is what i have sitting at home that needs to be replaced in mine to make it PERFECTLY tight. at the moment its not bad. the main idea is to get that pin thats on the knuckle that connects to the gearbox. mine has a pin similar to the ones you find in the half shafts. they are a down right pain in the ass to get to. maybe the dude that put mine in put it the wrong way ??? ( previous owner). whatever you do, DO NOT cut the pin with the seal in it. i thought about doing mine that way and soon realised that 1) its hard hacksaw work 2) you wont be able to fit another bolt in its place because the tunnel is too small. the only way unfortunately is dropping the box and i cant justify doing that for one bushing lol

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 Wiretap']

[quote name='pl0x said:

as for part numbers, as you know I got the wrong one from wingers.

Need to talk to someone onto it like boostin to get correct numbers

/quote]

The two you gave me will work for the replaceable bushes by the looks. My confusion comes from the pin you cannot remove ( which ill grind off as we spoke about ) and the bushes in there.

Are they smaller as per the legacy picture or larger as per the two you gave me.

From memory all four are the same, and you need to use another of the same bolts used to attach the shifter lever to it to replace the pin. Make sure you use a locking (aka friction) nut or it'll come undone by itself... not a mistake I'll ever make twice.

been there done that... :( here a TING driving along, NEK MINNIT shifter has detatched itself lol

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The trick I use with the roll-pins (and my god they're a pain in the arse, can take between upto 2 hours to remove depending how long they've been stuck in there.) is that I replace them by welding a suspension top nut (12mm head) to the upper side of where the pin slots in, that way I can just put a bolt in and tighten it down with no threat of it coming out.

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 VADZTER']

[quote name='pl0x said:

as for part numbers, as you know I got the wrong one from wingers.

Need to talk to someone onto it like boostin to get correct numbers

/quote]

The two you gave me will work for the replaceable bushes by the looks. My confusion comes from the pin you cannot remove ( which ill grind off as we spoke about ) and the bushes in there.

Are they smaller as per the legacy picture or larger as per the two you gave me.

From memory all four are the same, and you need to use another of the same bolts used to attach the shifter lever to it to replace the pin. Make sure you use a locking (aka friction) nut or it'll come undone by itself... not a mistake I'll ever make twice.

been there done that... :( here a TING driving along, NEK MINNIT shifter has detatched itself lol

I had to drive 20km in 1st gear after that happened... at least it was 1st...

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 Wiretap']

[quote name='pl0x said:

as for part numbers, as you know I got the wrong one from wingers.

Need to talk to someone onto it like boostin to get correct numbers

/quote]

The two you gave me will work for the replaceable bushes by the looks. My confusion comes from the pin you cannot remove ( which ill grind off as we spoke about ) and the bushes in there.

Are they smaller as per the legacy picture or larger as per the two you gave me.

From memory all four are the same, and you need to use another of the same bolts used to attach the shifter lever to it to replace the pin. Make sure you use a locking (aka friction) nut or it'll come undone by itself... not a mistake I'll ever make twice.

been there done that... :( here a TING driving along, NEK MINNIT shifter has detatched itself lol

I had to drive 20km in 1st gear after that happened... at least it was 1st...

mine was in 5th so i had to stall it lol and then i had 12mm bolt in the car but no nut and it was a raining at 1 in the morning :-\ long story short i just put it in place and prayed it didnt pop out on the way home lol

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, I had a go today at changing the bushes.

Firstly, youll need

4 x adaptor bushes from Subaru (part number 35035KA030 they will cost $87 inc gst retail. These work for the version 6 Sti so i cant guarantee they will for others as I believe the earlier Legacys maybe different)

1 x 75mm x 10mm cap screw and cone lock nut

Some lithium grease

2 x 12mm spanners

Ratchet socket with 12mm and 14 mm sockets

Pin punches 5mm and 7mm roughly

Phillips screw driver

Grinder or bench grinder.

Optional - Cobb Tuning front and rear shifter bush upgrade (as laid out in the DIY guide)

So, I removed the gear knob and surround first. You may as well unscrew the 6 screws holding the plate which in turn holds the rubber weather seal in place.

IMAG0014.jpg

IMAG0021.jpg

I then jacked up the car. I figured jacking it from the passenger side was best instead of crawling under the engine all the time for the photos. Works out good as you only half your body under the car (safety first) use your jack stands!

IMAG0015.jpg

Continued below

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This is the area in question you need to look for.

Theres the gearbox sub frame and one of the front sub frames and a couple of breather hoses.

IMAG0016.jpg

We can unbolt the breathers with the 12mm socket and move them out of the way

IMAG0017.jpg

Then we can undo the 2 14mm bolts from the gearbox sub frame. The gearbox may or may not drop slightly. Also remove the 4 14mm bolts from the cross member and move it out of the way.

IMAG0018.jpg

IMAG0019.jpg

Now we can see the front bushes and the gearbox adaptor. At this stage it may or may not be easier for you to unbolt the front gearbox mount (made easier if you remove the rubber first) and remove it out of the way. If you do this, the gearbox WILL drop slightly but its nothing to be alarmed about. Just be careful.

So the below shows the 2 x roll pins youll need to remove with the pin punches. The smaller one is obviously inside the larger one.

Take your time and be careful removing them as it affects how they go back in.

You can also undo the 12mm cone nut off the front bushing and remove the plate. IF you have a spring, remove the spring first. The plate has a half moon cut out so only goes on one way.

IMAG0020.jpg

Continued below

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Unbolt the rear bush while your under here.

IMAG0023.jpg

Now, stand up. Get in the cabin.

Give the gear lever a couple of hard pulls backwards to remove the gear adaptor off the gearbox selector rod.

IMAG0022.jpg

If it doesnt move youll need to soak with Crc Penetrator or try to tap off (the adaptor i mean) with something.

Now, inside the cabin, lift off the rubber plate and pull the whole assembly into the cabin.

IMAG0025.jpg

Congratulations, youve removed the shifter assembly.

IMAG0026.jpg

In the above photo ive pulled off the old rear bush and placed on the new Cobb Tuning bush using grease. Youll need to put some weight behind it to push it into the hole as the shift rod is swaged.

Continue to adaptor modification...

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To remove the front bush, use a solid screw driver and some muscle. Its a complete unit so takes abit to remove.

IMAG0027.jpg

Next, use two 12mm spanners and undo the vertical shoulder bolt.

IMAG0028.jpg

Once removed, we to cut off the head of the rivet of the factory adaptor. I used a bench grinder and ground away the SMALL head until it was flush with the body and used a pin punch and punched it through.

Note the lug off to the left. Thats the spring retainer for those models with spring held adaptors.

IMAG0029.jpg

Heres the two different types of bushes you can get for this unit. You local Subaru dealer will stock the larger ones more than the smaller by the sounds.

IMAG0030.jpg

This is the 75mm x 10mm cap screw with the cone nut attached and the new bushes fitted. Pretty self explanitory. You will have to drill out the side of the pin where you ground it off to match the opposite end. In other words, youll have to make it 10mm to allow the bolt to pass through.

Make sure you cut off the remainder of the thread of the bolt. The cap screw head will be rather close to the driveline shield but should be ok. Just double check before you install it just to be sure.

Pack has the part number for the correct bushes. Retain the vertical bolt for reuse. When you reinstall make sure the bolt HEAD is facing down for simple removal in the future.

IMAG0031.jpg

And thats about it.

To re assemble, just do it the other way. Be careful with the roll pins, use grease where you think it needs it.

I bought 4 bushes although I only 2. 2 I will replace at a later stage (made easier by the vertical bolt head facing down)

It took me about 30mins to put back together.

I got the cap bolt from EDL Fastners , although Bay Engineers or TWL or Blacks may also have them. E Hayes and Sons in Invers definately will.

The shifter is now very tight and very short, like the factory shifter should be. AND NO MOVEMENT.

The Cobb Tuning bushes I ordered through Mac at Fortyone.co.nz and fit like a dream. They came with instructions and a couple of Cobb stickers.

$106NZ delivered.

IMAG0013.jpg

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