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clutch pedal only half retracting? read this


markw336
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So i purchasd a 1999 wrx wagon turbo manual and after a day i noticed that the clucth was on half retracting it had dirty clutch fluid so i asumed it had air in the system

So i sent it in to a mechanic to replace the clutch slave and install a master cyl kit got the car back and was good for 20 mins was going to take it back to the mechanic thinking he had missed something

But i was talking to a guy at work and he said i should check the tenision on the spring for the realease bearing and i did this thought it was ok but i replace it and sure enough its now fixe

So moral of the story i spent 150 on the clutch when all it need was a $3 spring haha

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  • 1 month later...

Hmm.. :D Even though it is called a clutch tension spring it only stops the friction between the clutch fork and release bearing, The only issue you would have not running one would be little bit more wear between the release bearing and clutch fork mating surfaces. It does not push or hold tension against the clutch slave cylinder, its is the very opposite.. the most likely explanation imo is there is air in the top of the slave cyl. If you look at the angle of the slave cylinder when bolted to a gbox the nipple is on the very bottom this means that you can bleed it till the cows come home but you will not get the air out from the top of the slave unless you unbolt the slave from the box release the bleed nipple and hold it up (so the nipple is at the top) and get someone to slowly press the clutch pedal in while holding the slave piston or rod, when the pedal hits the ground you push the piston right in and do up the nipple once the air is out. then refit and makesure the slave rod lines up with the clutch fork when repressing the pedal.

The spring might help or give the slave cylinder piston a few more mm some times thats enough to return the pedal but still doesn\'t fix the air trapped in your system.

Hope that helps :)

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Hmmm i didn\'t even know there was meant to be a spring there, I don\'t have that spring on either of my cars, done 100,000kms on my forester and never had an issue, and the race car hasnt had an issue (the box has been in and out a bit tho)

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ok so now have the pedal retracting fine just picked one from work (repco) and made it fit lol genuine spring is about 20$ from the dealer

but the car is kinda shuddering when going into gears most of the time not all of the time tho so im thinking i may have to do the clutch even tho its supposed to be done before i brought it but who really knows lol

just dont know what sort of clutch i should buy should i genuine or go aftermarket

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 markw336 said:

ok so now have the pedal retracting fine just picked one from work (repco) and made it fit lol genuine spring is about 20$ from the dealer

but the car is kinda shuddering when going into gears most of the time not all of the time tho so im thinking i may have to do the clutch even tho its supposed to be done before i brought it but who really knows lol

just dont know what sort of clutch i should buy should i genuine or go aftermarket

clutch shudder, Equals over extending pressure plate or it now has preload.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don\'t know if your issue was like mine recently...You could try adjusting the throw of the pedal into the master cylinder, I recently was having this issue where after countless times bleeding the clutch, it would only come half way back and I would have to pull the pedal manually back to normal position.. Checked pedal adjustment, turns out the nut was loose that keeps the adjusting bit in place and the rod going into the master cylinder wasn\'t going all the way in like it was factory.. Adjusted it and wallah... Working clutch..

I also do not have that spring. clutch is working fine..

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