Aftermarket ECU Discussion ( sensor setup ect. )

[Guest]

 Munkvy']

[quote name='gotasuby said:

I\'ve used the g4 knock block. Original knock link and the Motec knock device I can\'t remember why it\'s called.

And the knock light. The g4 knock light and g4 knock link are both awesome.

Original knock link is crap in comparison.

/quote]would you recommend installing one of those knock lights when I install my g4?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/708536483

It is in my list. Just unsure. Was going to have this and a wideband

Sorry to butt in, but crap that\'s dear...Could you wire an LED to Knock Sensor?

Or cheap shift light to knock sensor?

Edit: Or CEL to Knock Sensor?

That is not a bad price for what it is. it works amazing and nothing you can make easily or buy cheaper comes close and is easy to set up.

Plug in and auto calibrates. when it lights up red you have knock. very reliable

I ran an early one of these a few years back before they started marketing it and found a tendancy for it to pickup some form of vibration at a particular point of the rev range, did it on 2 different motors. No idea if they refined the setup since then, but given there was no actual knock it was a little frustrating as it flashed at a certain point in the revs in most gears, so I tended to ignore it!

Of course this can also be impacted by the location of the knock sensor.

Stock location best?

[gotasuby]

Maybe they have improved the knock light as I have not had any false Knock yet confirmed with knock link.

[broku420gtb]

So I have a rev a BH. Im doing a single conversion with a vf30 and full v5 sti intake manifold, have bought a G4+ atom and I am just wondering if you have any knowledge around whether or not it can be wired in or needs a full new loom made to suit the converison. Also the map/maf sensor can I just use an normal airflow meter. my power goal is 200kw atw

[gotasuby]

 broku420gtb said:

So I have a rev a BH. Im doing a single conversion with a vf30 and full v5 sti intake manifold, have bought a G4+ atom and I am just wondering if you have any knowledge around whether or not it can be wired in or needs a full new loom made to suit the converison. Also the map/maf sensor can I just use an normal airflow meter. my power goal is 200kw atw

All wires you will need to do conversion are in your loom already so no loom needed. Engine loom will need a few wires changed. You will not run afm any more and your map will be sufficient. You will need a intake air temp after intercooler

[Rosssub]

I think the V6 STI runs an Intake Air Temp Sensor? Maybe use the PCV Valve hole for a new IAT?

BH TT Map Sensor is inside the BBOD, there\'s also a 3 Port Boost Solenoid in there too.

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,41358.0.html

[broku420gtb]

 Rosssub said:

I think the V6 STI runs an Intake Air Temp Sensor? Maybe use the PCV Valve hole for a new IAT?

BH TT Map Sensor is inside the BBOD, there\'s also a 3 Port Boost Solenoid in there too.

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,41358.0.html

So if I understand correctly I need an intake air temp

And there\'s a map sensor I can use in my bbod?.. as far as boost solenoids can I. Use that to control boost?

[gotasuby]

V6 sti do run air temp but pre turbo. You need post turbo. Boost control solenoid in bbod will be good to use

[Rosssub]

 gotasuby said:

V6 sti do run air temp but pre turbo. You need post turbo. Boost control solenoid in bbod will be good to use

Sweet so V6 STI IAT Sensor will be no good. Map Sensor in BBOD.

A Coolant Temp Sensor fits into my PCV Valve\'s 1/2" thread. In the Manifold (post turbo) right under TB.

Does the IAT Sensor needed for Link, have a 1/2" Thread? For an IAT Sensor, in PCV Valve Hole.

[rex-leggy]

there normally 1/8th npt

[Rosssub]

 rex-leggy said:

there normally 1/8th npt

Sweet, same as a Pyrometer I have here. Surely a 1/8th" - 1/2" Adaptor is available?

[Rosssub]

 Rosssub']

V6 sti do run air temp but pre turbo. You need post turbo. Boost control solenoid in bbod will be good to use

Sweet so V6 STI IAT Sensor will be no good. Map Sensor in BBOD.

A Coolant Temp Sensor fits into my PCV Valve\'s 1/2" thread. In the Manifold (post turbo) right under TB.

Does the IAT Sensor needed for Link, have a 1/2" Thread? For an IAT Sensor, in PCV Valve Hole.

there normally 1/8th npt

[quote name='rex-leggy said:

there normally 1/8th npt

/quote]

Sweet, same as a Pyrometer I have here. Surely a 1/8th" - 1/2" Adaptor is available?

This is a 3/8th npt Pyrometer (exhaust temp sensor), I have. Installed into the PCV Valve hole:

This is the BBOD contents:

Map Sensor & ECV Boost Solenoid removed:

Source, "Inside the BBOD":

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,41358.0.html

[Koom]

It\'s better to mount the inlet temp sensor in the intercooler (if front mounted, then it\'s best in the pipe before the throttle body) as you get lazy readings when mounting them in the manifold. As the heat of the manifold effects the sensors readings as it heat soaks.

[Rosssub]

 Koom said:

It\'s better to mount the inlet temp sensor in the intercooler (if front mounted, then it\'s best in the pipe before the throttle body) as you get lazy readings when mounting them in the manifold. As the heat of the manifold effects the sensors readings as it heat soaks.

Cool.

I have super low TB/Mani Temps, because of Phenolic Spacers and Bypassing the TB Coolant Flow.

Planning to keep the TMIC, for now. So this PCV Valve Hole will be good for my TMIC Link IAT Sensor?

[Koom]

Probably. The heat soak issue we had was on a rally car with thick phenolic spacers etc too, but also had a factory waic and anti-lag so heat was a constant issue. On a road car it most likely won\'t cause an issue unless you take it for a long session at a trackday.

[Rosssub]

 Koom said:

Probably. The heat soak issue we had was on a rally car with thick phenolic spacers etc too, but also had a factory waic and anti-lag so heat was a constant issue. On a road car it most likely won\'t cause an issue unless you take it for a long session at a trackday.

Sweet.

I wonder if a Thermal insulating, 1/2"npt - 3/8"npt adaptor is out there?

Or Lathe an Adaptor, from a Solid Block of Phenolic. Then Tap the NPT Thread? Or cut a 1/2" npt Thread onto the end of a 1/2" Rod of Phenolic. Then cut off a 15mm length and Drill/Tap a 3/8"npt Internal Thread. For fitting the Link 3/8" npt IAT Sensor?

Edit: Phenolic Spacer info in my Phenolic Spacer Thread:

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,40227.0.html

My planned Link IAT Sensor Location, OEM PCV Valve Port in Manifold:

This is the Link G4 IAT Sensor, 3/8" BSP Thread:

NZ Sales At, Speedtechnz, $99.00 nzd:

http://www.speedtechnz.com/shop/brands/link/Link+Air+Temp+Sensor+IAT.html

Phenolic Rod/Dowel Sales in NZ:

http://www.dotmar.co.nz/advanced-engineering-plastics.html

[Johnnynz]

Mine is just tapped into my IC on the drivers side. I haven\'t had any issues with it so far. That has included trackdays and in town driving and town to town trips.

[Rosssub]

 Johnnynz said:

Mine is just tapped into my IC on the drivers side. I haven\'t had any issues with it so far. That has included trackdays and in town driving and town to town trips.

Sweet.

Looks like the Tanks on My TMIC are about 3-4mm Thick Alloy. Perfect. ;D

Saves the PCV Valve Port, for another Sensor or Vac Fitting.

[Rosssub]

 Johnnynz said:

Mine is just tapped into my IC on the drivers side. I haven\'t had any issues with it so far. That has included trackdays and in town driving and town to town trips.

I just drilled an 8.0mm hole, into the Left End/Tank of a spare TMIC. Then Tapped a 3/8" NPT Thread. Opposite side from Turbo and Close to Engine Loom Points. Also right in Engine Bay Draft:

This is now my Link IAT Sensor Location:

[Rosssub]

What else is Specifically needed for Link, Sensor/Solenoid wise. That is not already fitted OEM?

;D

[rex-leggy]

nothing else is needed but you can hook lots of things up to help protect you engine by setting limits.

rather than having gauges run the sensors to the link which negates the fact you might not see the gauge when shit hits the fan

[Rosssub]

 rex-leggy said:

nothing else is needed but you can hook lots of things up to help protect you engine by setting limits.

rather than having gauges run the sensors to the link which negates the fact you might not see the gauge when s*** hits the fan

Cool. ;D

Other than the Knock Detection Gear, what else would you recommend, as a must have item?

[rex-leggy]

 Rosssub']

[quote name='rex-leggy said:

nothing else is needed but you can hook lots of things up to help protect you engine by setting limits.

rather than having gauges run the sensors to the link which negates the fact you might not see the gauge when s*** hits the fan

/quote]

Cool. ;D

Other than the Knock Detection Gear, what else would you recommend, as a must have item?

oil pressure, oil temp, 02 sensor imo would be good to have. theres bound to be a large list of possibilities just look in the bay of a wrc car theres sensors ontop of sensors

[Rosssub]

 rex-leggy']

[quote name='rex-leggy said:

nothing else is needed but you can hook lots of things up to help protect you engine by setting limits.

rather than having gauges run the sensors to the link which negates the fact you might not see the gauge when s*** hits the fan

/quote]

Cool. ;D

Other than the Knock Detection Gear, what else would you recommend, as a must have item?

oil pressure, oil temp, 02 sensor imo would be good to have. theres bound to be a large list of possibilities just look in the bay of a wrc car theres sensors ontop of sensors

So the Link Display would cover it all quite well. $1,060nzd - Speedtechnz:

http://www.speedtechnz.com/shop/brands/link/Display-Link.html

Knock Block. (Knock Control Interface) - $1526.48nzd - Speedtechnz:

http://www.speedtechnz.com/site/speedtech/images/items/link/link_display%203.jpg

Stand Alone Knock Detection Light. - $295.00nzd - Speedtechnz - Via Trademe:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/708536483

[Rosssub]

From what I can see the Link and most Aftermarket Oil Pressure Sensors, use a 3 wire 5v Sensor. My BH5B uses a 1 Wire Oil Pressure Switch, so no good.

Oil Temp Sensors are under $20 Each:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Meter-2252-Sending-Unit-Transmission-Temp-Each-/310218851745?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483a7c05a1

Oil Pressure Sensors are $130 Each:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Meter-2246-Replacement-Sender-for-100-PSI-Oil-Fuel-Pressure-1-8-NPT-/400614442953?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d467b47c9

Can the OEM O2 Sensor and this Oil Temp Sensor, connect straight to the Link G4?

Or does this have to go through the Link View?

Or is this just for an AFR Gauge/Oil Temp Gauge/Oil Pressure Gauge?

[Marky]

 Rosssub']

[quote name='Johnnynz said:

Mine is just tapped into my IC on the drivers side. I haven\'t had any issues with it so far. That has included trackdays and in town driving and town to town trips.

/quote]

I just drilled an 8.0mm hole, into the Left End/Tank of a spare TMIC. Then Tapped a 3/8" NPT Thread. Opposite side from Turbo and Close to Engine Loom Points. Also right in Engine Bay Draft:

This is now my Link IAT Sensor Location:

Just thinking re this - wouldn\'t it make more sense to be on the cold side of the intercooler? There you\'ll be seeing some nice 100 degree plus intake temps, might throw things out a touch ;D