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Mods on BL5 Spec B


jimmy8900
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A fair bit of work is what, aka a bigger turbo.

Need to be up at what, 19+psi for that at which pressure our little turbo's will be turning into heaters more than blowers. Mine had to be tuned back down to ~16psi due knock from too high intake temps on the dyno. Should be able to turn it up a fair bit more with the front mount now though. Haven't seen any read over 180 on multiple true reading dyno's.

You got a boost gauge on yours? Whats the stock pressure? 13-14psi? Seems to be alot of conflicting info on this.

Edited by Andy_Mac
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Downpipe + tune = 160-180wheel kw

Dead stock hovers around 140ish wheel KW, same as the older RSK / GTB shape makes too

Remember 200wkw is in the ballpark of 350 crank hp, it's a fair hike over stock 260/275. And peak numbers don't remotely tell the whole story, they make awesome low down and oomph and for "normal" driving feel really healthy at that level

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 Marky said:
Downpipe + tune = 160-180wheel kw

Dead stock hovers around 140ish wheel KW, same as the older RSK / GTB shape makes too

Remember 200wkw is in the ballpark of 350 crank hp, it's a fair hike over stock 260/275. And peak numbers don't remotely tell the whole story, they make awesome low down and oomph and for "normal" driving feel really healthy at that level

Mine was putting down 180KW on PBMS dyno (downpipe + tune + panel filter). A full exhaust job, bigger top mount + an extra 2psi of boost would have cracked 200kw just....but then youre talking spending the same $$$ again to get 1/2 the power of the first 3 mods.

180kw was great for daily driving within the limits (and slightly above when overtaking).

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 heylinb4nz said:
Mine was putting down 180KW on PBMS dyno (downpipe + tune + panel filter). A full exhaust job, bigger top mount + an extra 2psi of boost would have cracked 200kw just....but then youre talking spending the same $$$ again to get 1/2 the power of the first 3 mods.

180kw was great for daily driving within the limits (and slightly above when overtaking).

Thanks (& Marky) thats pretty reassuring, happy enough with the 180kw (happy enuff with the 140kw now it seems). I think the downpipe+tune+(maybe pod) will be the extent of it. If I want more, might be better to get an STI, do love the wagon though.

Stupid question as I know the answer already, but this would likely void a Winger mechanical warranty?

Edited by killervq30de
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Downpipe probably would, could always query them and just say you want it just for noise and not mention power. High flow panel filter and tune should be unnoticeable.

Almost tempted to make a downpipe myself for mine and see if it actually makes any performance gain over the stock decatted one.

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 killervq30de said:
Thanks (& Marky) thats pretty reassuring, happy enough with the 180kw (happy enuff with the 140kw now it seems). I think the downpipe+tune+(maybe pod) will be the extent of it. If I want more, might be better to get an STI, do love the wagon though.

Stupid question as I know the answer already, but this would likely void a Winger mechanical warranty?

The latest WRX STI premium is only putting out 225kw, which by the time you factor in drivetrain losses on AWD and Tiptronic you'd be down to the 180 kw atw mark anyway.

RE: warranty

- Pod filter will void. K&N panel filter should not void as you are not changing the factory intake. K&N filters do not void factory warrenties.

- PBMS tune should not void, all you are doing is"tuining" the factory ECU, check with Subaru NZ as they got PBMS to tune some limited edition cars for them. As long as its stock boost all you are doing is "tuning" the car for NZ fuel.

- Front pipe, id check with Subaru

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Tune will categorically void the warranty if they pick it up. You're changing a very major part of how the engine runs

Boost pressure plays a small part, but I can still show you how to blow an engine up with half of stock boost

edit - basically anything you do non cosmetic will void a warranty. Weigh up if it's worth it, gambling it will be fine is a fools game

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 Marky said:
Tune will categorically void the warranty if they pick it up. You're changing a very major part of how the engine runs

Boost pressure plays a small part, but I can still show you how to blow an engine up with half of stock boost

edit - basically anything you do non cosmetic will void a warranty. Weigh up if it's worth it, gambling it will be fine is a fools game

Yeah I knew as much. I think with the tune, if it changes the 'name' or checksum then they'll detect it. with any engine damage i'm sure they'd check. I fully plan to wait until next July when it expires.

Next, Car insurance. 30+ year old driver. What do you need to tell car insurance about it? tell them, ok fine but what do you explain to them?

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How many mechanics would actually have access to the stock rom to know what the checksum should be. US guys do dodgy **** like that all the time, and with Subaru dealerships too. Have some super aggressive map, stuff something up, flash the stock one back and do a number of stop starts as it apparently records ignition starts and go in and they're none the wiser.

And thats were a decat is key. Stock exhaust externally and you could probably get away with saying you don't know anything about it if pinged for it. Do they do emmissions checks upon import?

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For your exhaust if you want it to sound nice with a bit of loud just take the mufflers off and get some pipe put in their place. That's what I did as one of my mufflers had a hole in it and it only cost me $150 iirc.

I'll make a video this arvo if the weather holds up and put up the link.

Edited by Sub Zero
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