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Legacy GTB TT BBOD Solenoid Dead? (also Hi from Florida US of A)


LethargyGT

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Guys, don't laugh...  In pursuit of chasing down my error code 66 issues, I gave the BBOD hoses and solenoids a clean out with carb cleaner...after which I forgot to plug back in the big connector that provides power to all the little solenoids in the box before going for a drive...anyway, found that, sorted, cleared the codes and carried on.  Well, she's got no boost on the primary.  I am getting boost high up in the rev range.  No error codes.  

 

I checked and quadruple checked the BBOD hoses and electrical connections and haven't spotted anything missing.  Plugged the greens together to cycle the solenoids and I can see the one that hose number one plugs into doesn't appear to be working.  Line one goes to the intercooler control valve (IACV), which, if I'm not mistaken, should always be under vacuum (and in the closed position) until the secondary kicks in, at which point it moves to atmospheric and opens.  There is definitely vacuum (from the tank in the RH guard) sucking that solenoid, but at no point does the other side of the solenoid go into vacuum.  If I remove hose one from the solenoid and give it a suck, the IACV closes, so no blockages along that path. 

 

I've yet to check to see if power is getting to that solenoid.  Is that a removable plug on top of it, or is it permanently hard wired?  Doesn't look like it wants to unplug.  Do these solenoids die sometimes, or are they rock solid?  In the interim, would it be safe to bypass that solenoid to get vacuum to the IACV, provided I keep it under 4000RPM sort of thing?  I've got to do a big drive in the weekend and would rather have the pre VOD range available, if I can't get it properly fixed in time...

 

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions...apart from the "go single turbo" ones of course ;-)

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Yep, I've plugged that hose back in and if I pull the input hose from the "faulty" solenoid, I hear the sucking sound indicating the vacuum is there from the tank.  And yes, the one way valve is back in the way it came out.  Cheers.

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Update - the solenoid was faulty. I must have killed it with the carb cleaner and compressed air.

 

A fellow naki Subaru freak sorted me out with a BBOD from an auto BH5, which got me back boosting again on the primary, but exhibited some strange behaviour (general peakiness and George was much accentuated). I was still getting error 66 at about 6k too.

 

This evening I replaced the faulty solenoid in my original box and put it back in the car. It's feeling good again but still error 66. I think I'll start a new thread for that one.

 

Regarding the wiring of the solenoids, it does appear they are permanently wired. I had to pop the terminals out from the big master bbod plug.

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10 hours ago, les666 said:

Awesome that you got it sorted! Code 66 sucks! Just check for vac leaks, clean out the boost solenoid in the passengers guard and check that the secondary bypass valve isn't leaking. 

 

Yeah, jeez it sucked driving a TT in non turbo mode!  I've checked a fair bunch of stuff but not the boost solenoid in the guard yet, thanks for the tip.  I actually replaced the secondary bypass valve (one of about a 100 names these things seem to go by) recently as the old one had glue holding together one of the nipples.  I checked it with a vacuum pump to confirm that it was actually moving something inside...would that confirm the leak I need to look for?  The one with glue seemed fine too.

 

It sounds like George is lingering in the left hand part of the engine bay, when driving it, and it has gotten worse since yesterday's mucking around, probably the BH5 solenoid box fried it.  Given the location that noise seems to be coming from, could that be the primary valve playing up?  What would be the implications of that one leaking?  I might see if I can check that with the vacuum pump too. 

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4 hours ago, Joker said:

LOL George

 

something tells me this isnt your first time on ClubSUB

 

also BG4?

 

Haha, well I only just discovered that term this week on here!  I had a BH5 about 4 years ago which also had George, but never bothered to investigate what it was...thought it was a harmonic on a heat shield or something.  It's not exactly the easiest thing to do a Google search on...

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2 hours ago, LethargyGT said:

 

Yeah, jeez it sucked driving a TT in non turbo mode!  I've checked a fair bunch of stuff but not the boost solenoid in the guard yet, thanks for the tip.  I actually replaced the secondary bypass valve (one of about a 100 names these things seem to go by) recently as the old one had glue holding together one of the nipples.  I checked it with a vacuum pump to confirm that it was actually moving something inside...would that confirm the leak I need to look for?  The one with glue seemed fine too.

 

It sounds like George is lingering in the left hand part of the engine bay, when driving it, and it has gotten worse since yesterday's mucking around, probably the BH5 solenoid box fried it.  Given the location that noise seems to be coming from, could that be the primary valve playing up?  What would be the implications of that one leaking?  I might see if I can check that with the vacuum pump too. 

 

The easiest way to check if the bypass valve is leaking is to suck on the nipple. If it holds vac then it is sweet.

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1 hour ago, les666 said:

 

 

The easiest way to check if the bypass valve is leaking is to suck on the nipple. If it holds vac then it is sweet.

 

Cool, that's effectively what I'm doing with the vacuum pump, so it should be good then.

Edited by LethargyGT
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One thing that's a bit odd with my bbod is that the bottom left solenoid has these 3 connections... A short piece of tube coming out the top with a filter on it, the usual number 3 line out of the bottom to the #3 nipple, and then this other line coming out near the bottom which goes to the #15 nipple but no corresponding line on the outside of the box...I don't know why that is. Typically the bg5 gtb only uses the first 3 blocks, right? So why that line on the inside plugging into 15?

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Pretty sure the bg5a's use all four blocks with lines 15 & 16 going to the secondary bypass valve nipple and the bypass valve bridge. What year/revision is your bg5? Will take some pics of my bg5 for you later this morning. 

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Yeah I think you are right but mine's a bg5b 96 gtb with the ej20r and no secondary wastegate, which I think is where at least one of those extra lines would go on yours. I've looked inside a bg5a, bh5 and mine and they are each different, but the bh5 was closest to mine with just the 3 blocks in use and actually worked in my car.

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  • 7 years later...

Hope this isn't too dead of a thread but I need help. I have the dreaded code 66 and I'm at a completely loss.. took my BBoD apart 1 line by line and blew out / replaced hoses. Still getting the same CEL. It feels like any time it's under load it just hits a road block and starves it's self of air. 

 

Boosting is a hit or a miss sometimes on a battery reset I'm good for 20 miles others it's as soon as I test drive.

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  • General Member

Cant say I ever dug in there, but with some dedication & determination I know it can be done (encouraging useless words)

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9 hours ago, Joker said:

Cant say I ever dug in there, but with some dedication & determination I know it can be done (encouraging useless words)

ACTUALLY YOUR JUST THE MAN I NEED! (or woman idk)

 

So, I've deduced its most likely a blown turbo (my vf18 the one with the small can thingy sorry I'm a NA guy) I've leaked tested my entire system as well as checked for clogs. the solenoids all click on like normal. I grabbed pillars and tried to move my actuator rod up and down on the bigger turbo (driver side JDM) it moved no issue my other side now i know the spring is stiffer here but it wouldn't move finally I got it to break free and kinda heard a pop every time I opened it. so I'm pretty sure its a blown turbo. now here's where YOU come in, i cant find a VF18 turbo for the life of me. But through searching for conversions I found this thread!

 

you have a BG5 GTB yeah?

 

(more details = better answers)

 

So did I

 

I went from a 18/19 to a 33/27 odd pair or something like that, ye it worked hardest part was the change in turbo inlet size that meant different intake runner from the air box & such

 

pretty much same turbo's otherwise just newer

 

 

I need to do this conversion any tips?

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I will put that myth to rest : I'm not as clever as I appear : just a bit Silly (can confirm Male too FYI)

 

yeeaaaah my Mechanic at the time rues the day I took that combo in & said never do that again

 

as they had to find a Intake pipe to match as they were different Diameters on the intake side, stretching the job out

 

as your can imagine "yeah sweet they should bolt up" went to "oh s*** we need to get more parts"

 

there are way more clever people than me Still playing with these and some that have swapped Housings & Exhaust sides to make things work

 

I have never got my hands that dirty (I have swapped motors "Like for like" & even then things never went straight forward)

 

there's always a dumb piece of intake plastic to split or sensor to break

 

"Some" will say go Single while you have the chance

 

"others" (me) will say try & stay stock / OEM for as long as possible as they become a money pit Quick!

 

& yeah both tracks are easier said than done, as you mention VF's are Dinosaurs now & yep that's kinda why I thought the 27 would be good

 

My car ended up in Wgtn SO the old owner might still have parts if he's not had a clean up in the past 7-5 years?

 

(sad to say it but try the Subaru Gen 2 and TT Groups hah)

 

I am doing my best to keep the forums active, for things like that ❤️ 

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Joker
This post was recognized by Joker!

khcombs90 was awarded the badge 'Great Content' and 5 points.

pretty sure its a stuck actuator rod on the primary turbo. I checked all my solenoids they all click.. ill admit I cant exactly tell if their working due to not knowing their inspec multimeter numbers.

but all seem to click and allow air to pass thru including the one in the passenger fender. replaced all my check valves (boost filters) and I was still getting code 66. So I tried articulating each arm on the turbo and took her out for a test drive. I was able to get about 8 psi. Was like sweet tried one more pull and she went limp. digging online people say thats popular in turbo cars so the over pressure doesn't blow the engine. (I.E. actuator rod isn't opening to allow release in pressure.) Tried one more time on primary and now I believe its stuck open as there is no top end turbo at all. its all engine but I can hear my bottom end turbo spool and feel the torque. So pulled the turbo and ordered a new one a VF25 its a primary from a 98 auto GTB so like 2 or 3 less psi but it works so theres that.

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  • Joker changed the title to Legacy GTB TT BBOD Solenoid Dead? (also Hi from Florida US of A)
  • General Member

updated thread Title KHC is doing the hard work figuring this old Girl out!

 

New Turbo on the way? & sticky Actuator getting sorted?

 

this makes it a little more impressive and thank you for helping document your struggles & solutions on the forums! ❤️ 

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