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WRX STi 2003 V8 - replacing front shocks :(


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Hi,

I was hoping some of you guys might be able to help me out. I only know the basics about my car, so please go easy on me! So here it is...

I got my car serviced recently and was told the front shocks have some play in them and need to be replaced. Now, I always like to know what factory originals would cost and the benefit, compared with aftermarket. So far, this is all I have:

Factory originals direct from Subaru: NZ$1250 +gst per shock

Bilstein shocks (compatible with my model): Roughly NZ$400-500 per shock.

I've enquired with Subaru to get their opinion, and they say that quite simply: the Bilsteins will give a softer ride compared to factory originals specific to my car. This is where I am stuck!

Do I want softer shocks on the front, opposed to factory originals that give a harder ride? Does this matter? Or is it purely down to a driver's preference? i.e. will it adversely affect the car in other ways like wear & tear?

I REALLY don't want to spend $1250 per shock, but I don't want to replace original parts with aftermarket and find I have a seriously devalued car, let alone something that doesn't feel right.

Any informed opinions would be much appreciated, thanks!

Mike.

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That sounds steap, even for SUBARU.

When i enquired about new shocks for the spec c (same shocks as yours) they quoted me $675 per corner, so i think you getting ripped...

You can get std WRX shocks (they are softer and not as good) which will fit, for around $250 a pair. They will do the job, but the STI ones are about 30-40% firmer so you will notice a difference.

DO NOT! Buy new shocks from SUBARU in any case, as for that price, you can buy a nice set of Coilovers (which is what i did).

A set of Buddyclub (the ones i got) racing spec dampers will cost approx $3000 and despite what you've heard (maybe) won't be bugger all stiffer (on the softest setting) than the factory STI ones.

Or, get some D2's or similar cheaper coilovers, maybe BC's, will be cheaper than stock (even including the cert) and give you better options for tuning your handling and a better suspension set up overall.

By the way, chances are, your rears will go as soon as you buy new fronts, it's a design flaw with the factory shocks (the piston/shaft is very wide, leaving no room for a good seal; hence, the seal fails and they begin to leak, usually between 50-70,000km's).

Also: DO NOT! replace fronts with softer shocks and leave the rears std, do them all...or not at all.

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Hey there,

I was of the same opinion as you with the not wanting to replace with aftermarket parts, sooo I heard of a company in Auckland who rebuild Subaru shocks, including bilstiens, they are good as new when they're done with them and they can do them for about $300 per shock, that'd be your best bet I'd say, not too sure on the company's name as the local Subaru dealers got them sent for me, your local Subaru guys should be able to do the same.

Good luck!!!

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Take your car somewhere else for a second opinion, those style of inverted struts all have play in them and even knock when there is nothing really wrong with them.

If you look at your shock, the big chunky chrome shaft is not actually a shaft but the housing of the insert, the shaft is only about 20mm in diameter and sticks through the bottom of the strut housing and is held inplace by a nut. So the end of the shaft is held in place and the body of the inset actually moves. There are 2 slides inside the housing of the strut that are loaded up with grease, these slides get some wear and allow the strut to have some play

You can't get them rebuilt, well at least you couldn't when I was looking into it, because the shaft has a strange diameter size and they cant get new slides for the inside of the housing.

Yes that retail price is correct for factory STi ones, they're made by KYB and all tied up under contract so only subaru can sell them.

One of my good friends bought a second hand set out of a V8 Sti that had only done 50,000kms and they knocked too.

You can simply pull them off the car and undo the nut underneath the strut and slide the insert out them regrease the inside of the housing (with special grease), this helps the problem and sometimes the knocking goes away.

The knocking can be a little annoying but your struts are probably fine as long as the inserts are not leaking.

Talk to someone in the workshop at Autolign in Auckland (they do all the rebuilds on bilsteins and are them only authorised rebuilders in NZ)

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Factory Subaru Shocks are KYB and cant be rebuilt in NZ. Stocks NZ give me contact in aussie who rebuilds them, but even they said they would have to strip them, then wait for parts from Japan.

Have you tried the likes of Fortyone automotive? (fortyone.co.nz) they can get things direct from Japan, so could ask him for a price on OEM shocks if you must have them.

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How many miles on your car? Is there oil leaking from the shocks? The inverted struts are pretty noisy and creaky and a good shock can easily be mistaken for one thats bad.

When I picked up my Version 9 the rear shocks where making a knocking sound and the dealer told me that they need to be replaced. After doing some research on the net I found out it was an easy fix and only cost $10 for a tube of grease.

The shafts on them tend to bind up and making a knocking sound which can be mistaken for excessive play. After greasing the noise goes away.

Start with the easy stuff first before you go down the expensive route. Remember to add in the price of certification if you're going with coilovers, around $400 I think.

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 sti_v9 said:

When I picked up my Version 9 the rear shocks where making a knocking sound and the dealer told me that they need to be replaced. After doing some research on the net I found out it was an easy fix and only cost $10 for a tube of grease.

The shafts on them tend to bind up and making a knocking sound which can be mistaken for excessive play. After greasing the noise goes away.

Can anyone give a more detailed description on how this is done, especially on the bilstiens?

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 Stoffa said:

You can simply pull them off the car and undo the nut underneath the strut and slide the insert out them regrease the inside of the housing (with special grease), this helps the problem and sometimes the knocking goes away.

I already told you how /\ /\

| |

At a guess I'd say it may be lithium grease you use

Just make sure you remove the springs from the struts before undoing the nut

It IS as easy as it sounds

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Guest boostin

The red KYB inverted struts aren't rebuildable. The yellow Bilsteins are.

Yes the Bilsteins will be softer than the KYBs, but SFA. I have fitted a few sets of the Bilsteins to Imprezas and noticed no difference.

$300 is for a rebuild, and only on Bilsteins.

So you have 2 options. New KYBs through Subaru, or aftermarket Bilsteins from Autolign. Don't get secondhand shocks. They will be the same or worse than your current shocks.

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I would ask myself a couple of questions 1st

We have awesome roads don’t we um yea right

What is my driving style?

Do I travel long distance often?

What do I like as a feel?

What is best for my car?

From there you should be able to get an idea on what you want with compromises on what you can get and min the hit to the wallet

Blitzin for me, it is softer and noticeable in my opinion and with the rite spring rate and all that should be good for city/ out of town also good for those bottomless holes we call pot holes in New Zealand And never ending road work’s

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Thanks very much for all the responses. It would take me too long to reply to each person, so I'll just keep it brief:

Subaru did the service on my car, so I expected some kind of selling by them to get me to spend money. However, I still haven't noticed any knocking, leaking or anything bad at all to suggest shocks needed replacing - only that Subaru said the front shocks had play in them.

Also, one of you guys mentioned that if I were to replace the front - then I should almost certainly replace all shocks at the same time anyway. Sure, the rear shocks might be buggered soon enough (gauging by the estimated mileage on them of 50-70k?) and so I would have to anyway. But *must* i replace all four at the same time? Or is it simply because the ride might not feel quite right if I don't?

WiLd02StI -

I'm a pretty relaxed, easy going driver most of the time - with a penchant to put my foot down late at night or very early morning when it's cold air and quiet roads ;)

I don't travel long distance - except to corromandel once every couple of months.

I like a very firm ride, but not to the point where I shrink 2 inches every time I take a drive.

What's best for my car? Well, I guess that's all I really want to know! I'll spend the money if it's good for the car.

Thanks again everyone, looks like I still have a fair bit of research to do before I made a decision.

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Just have a look to see if there is any fluid leaking, if not ( and having only done 50 -70k I wouldnt expect any ) keep driving the car as normal. No point spending money on something thats not broken. As they tend to last well over 100tho ks before you would have any problems.

My advice: Ignore replacing them till you have some hard evidence that they actually need replacing.

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ive also got some knocking sounds coming from the rear shocks in my ver8 but havent had them check out to see if there had it!

my car has done about 62,000km and from what ive been told the rear shocks are known to have a short life! so i am worried from the price of the front shocks that the rears are going to be just as bad!

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 nt_a_foz said:

sti-evo has the same problem jsut takes ti back to dealer every few months and they regrease it and theyre fine again

really that sounds annoying as hell
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Well, they reckon I can't get a WOF in the condition those front shocks are in - but I'm getting a second opinion this week. I have a feeling Subaru are just trying to make a bit of coin out of the inspection.

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Guest boostin

From the VIRM on the LTNZ website....

http://www.ltsa.govt.nz/certifiers/virm-in-service/general-09-v3a4.pdf

 
Any other suspension component:

a) is insecure, or

b) is damaged, significantly corroded, distorted or cracked, or

c) shows signs of welding or heating after original manufacture, or

d) has play beyond manufacturer’s specifications

Subaru give no specs for play. Therefore any play is beyond manufacturers specs.

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