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Pm me your address and I'll send a set to you. As long as @chulozumo is fine with that. Otherwise I'll have to toss a coin

Well I actually do need new wheel nuts if you're offering =]

Dropped off at Subirex over the weekend to do the whole exhaust system. Picked up the exhaust parts today from Redline, can't wait for it all to come together.

Get it out of limp mode by resetting the ECU. I've got a Tactrix cable and a laptop personally and I use that with Romraider Logger to reset my ECU. FreeSSM with most cheap ODB2 cables should work too. Other than this you may be able to do it by disconnecting your battery, but not 100% sure on this. There should also be a manual reset you can google. I also recently spent $200 tracking down a boost leak I COULDN'T find after stripping the whole intake up the intake manifold out! In the end I gave up and took it to Pitstop for a smoke test and they found the leak under the dash. Still kicking myself for not trying to cut the Boost Gauge out of the loop!!! It never occurred to me that a tiny little hose split could leak so much boost! I was only boosting 4PSI and the car stalled in the middle of the f'n motorway! After this was all fixed up I'm back to 15psi.

I have an AVS too. Battery lasts 2 weeks at a stretch without driving it.

Power antenna... Subaru’s haven’t had those since the stone ages... Interior lights are always off so not those either. Not so much concerned about the LED flashing but whatever else it might be doing to justify the indicator flashing. Has an AVS alarm so just as likely to be that. Have a CTEK one but would mean having an extension lead run across the main entrance to the house hence kinda thinking the dinky solar panel to atleast keep up with the draw for those times when it’s not used for a few weeks

led flashing draining a car battery seems unlikely but then again, you do mention period of several weeks. does vehicle have an alarm? some discharge is quite normal. some form of trickle charger sounds like best idea? i ended up getting a ctek charger for mine, though if you park yours outside it may not be so practical.

The grille does not determine whether the vehicle is a face lift model, merely a result of the different specifications. To the best of my knowledge some of the grilles are interchangeable between the pre-face lift and face lift models - dependent on the spec of the vehicle of course. The face lift included (but not limited to) a re-design of the front bumper, headlight housing, bonnet, wing mirrors, tail/brake light housing and garnish on the tail gate door. Pre-face lift GT: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1477284994.htm Face lift GT: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1478426071.htm Pre-face lift GT Spec B: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1478927816.htm Face lift GT Spec B: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1434575354.htm

Your one is just an OEM option mesh grille you can get fitted when you buy it. The default is the one with the bar (I think), except for the spec B which get the honeycomb one, like this.

Going on what Boostin suggested, Anything Electronic in Nelson also does cluster repairs .

Give Robinson Instruments in Auckland a call, see if it's something they can possibly repair. You'd need to remove the cluster and send it to them.

This was in July

update for Furzes Model: 1996 Subaru WRX STi Displacement: 2L Mods: Custom exhaust, 4 Bar map sensor, Turbosmart 44mm wastegate, Flipped V8 STi Spec C manifold, FMIC, 1000cc Bosch injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeroflow Fuel rails, complete teflon braided fuel lines, stock Version 7 STi Longblock w/ Supertech Dual Springs Turbo/Boost: Steve Murch Motorsport Holset HRC35/2 22lb (ish, and for both 98 and e85) Fuel: Flex Fuel BP 98 (275kw), e85 w/ 3.5bar base pressure (302.08kw) ECU: Link G4+ Plug in Tuner/dyno: @gotasuby aka @SAS

HI Admin, could we perhaps add another category to the mods list and break it down further - seeing as there are so many ECU's out there these days like Link and Autronic and so many others. Also unsure if we can add a category for turbo and boost level so others get some guidelines/inspiration on what all is going on.... Model: Displacement: Mods: Turbo/Boost: Fuel: ECU: Tuner/dyno:

haha, I thought it might be Waiheke, that's much more reasonable!

Or jimmy up a crank position sensor switch or something like that. Doesn't stop them getting in and trashing it but unless they have a trailer they won't be going anywhere