slystiguy

General Member
  • Content Count

    2,199
  • Joined

Community Reputation

258 ok this is getting a bit out of hand

About slystiguy

  • Rank
    Old Boy

Personal Information

  • Drives :
    As a volunteer Sheriff’s Deputy I’ve been doing surveillance for years. One time I suspected an ex-girlfriend of mine of cheating on me, so I tailed her for six nights straight. Turns out… she was. With a couple of guys actually, so… mystery solved.
  • Interests
    Cars
  • Location
    christchurch
  • Occupation
    aspiring freelance bodyguard

Recent Profile Visitors

1,067 profile views
  1. My bet is a rod bearing. Hard to say from that video... Doesn't sound good...
  2. Use a hose clip and get it on using a 1/4 ratchet and extensions, go in under the brake master cylinder near the chassis rail. It's a right PITA and not something that I enjoy having to do. I've never found the pliers method to be all that easy plus the clips are almost always old and crappy/don't seal that well. New rubber line is advisable if yours perished or brittle as they can leak .
  3. You can prime engine by unplugging crank/cam sensors and turning the engine over until the oil light turns off. That's how the older models work anyway, dunno that much about newer stuff. Replacing a core should be pretty straight forward. Make sure oil lines aren't blocked, put new copper banjo washes on to while you're there.
  4. waste of time and money. Just get a second hand engine in it, sell it when you want a turbo and buy a turbo. That is the only correct answer. And refurbish... what exactly are you asking here? I feel like (no offense) but if you're wording things like that you are probably out of your depth. Start with picking a good quality engineering shop, get them to check the condition of engine parts and advise on what parts are due for replacing and go from there as anything due for replacement will have to be measured before purchasing... Once you know what you need you can call some shops and get prices on bearings/pistons/rings/rods/crank ect ect. From there you are going to need to check the valve clearances and replace as required. At the end of the day it's not a simple job, it's going to need a bunch of specialist tools, a machine shop and a whole bunch of money which in the long run WON'T BE GOOD FOR ANY TURBO APPLICATION. Turbo parts are very different to non turbo in terms of strength and also in the way the engine is designed. Then you have a whole mess of ecu and wiring issues that are simply not worth the time. You could just buy a turbo car and not waste your time or money and have a much better result. If you want to just service the engine by replacing some gaskets, partsouq is the website you are looking for. Genuine parts for less than dealer prices to your door.
  5. I removed mine on my old bc5. Plugged it with a fitting I had laying around. You could cap it ect too. Won't harm anything, but it's there for removing the crank case gases I believe. So you would need to look into a catch can system. pro tip a catch can system is more than just a catch can, proper systems have oil separators in them so when you're holding high rpm for long periods the oil can go back into engine rather than overfilling your catch can. If you do any sort of racing or extended thrashing you will need the full system. If it's just a daily driver you will get away with a simple catch can system but will need to keep an eye on it.
  6. any reason you don't have ethanol? It's like the answer to every problem haha
  7. that sucks to hear! I'm buying selling constantly and have never come across this guy but a quick look at his facebook says he's been in hospital recently lol , maybe that is part of it. Call him out on facebook, it worked in the past for me. Just start off peaceful and say you want to return the faulty turbo he sold you for a refund ect ect. Do it on the NZ subaru pages On another note I have a vf24 for sale if you find yourself needing something let me know
  8. I'd keep the vf30. If you want more power I'd be spending your money on ethanol and just run a lower ethanol blend like e20. Keeps the DET down but won't rape your wallet as hard. Allows you to push the engine harder and retain safe limits. I'm pretty sure SAS have seen these go well past 210wkw, more like 230+ . But that would be on v7 sti engine and I'm not sure if 98 or ethanol for those figures. Maybe @gotasuby can chime in. Personally wouldn't waste my time on a td05 18/20g ect. I've driven one and the lag is quite bad, only really has like 3000rpm of actual drivability (4000-7000). Boon hit the nail on the head with his EFR post. Spend a bit more get a much better product. Not bolt on though I guess.
  9. rear diff bushes maybe Or maybe exhaust hitting somewhere
  10. partsouq - get them there for about $50 shipped to your door for both sides. Last I checked anyways.
  11. Milwaukee m18 impact wrench. Absolutely awesome. Couldn't live without it when it comes to suspension / drive line stuff. Not to mention swapping wheels ect. I also have the m12 impact wrench and it is equally handy. Saves a lot of time having these 2 tools.
  12. Flogging a dead horse lol Front mount is always better. But isn't needed until you're pushing 220+wkw . Ducting and shrouds are a must in any efficient top mount setup . The whole lag argument has been debunked sooooooo many times. You lose like 200rpm switching from front to top, but gain probably 20wkw anyway. Big turbos are laggy, front mounts have nothing to do with it.
  13. The factory headers well outflow the limits of a stock turbo. I know of people running above 350wkw e85 builds and the factory headers are fine (twin scroll though!) I'm not sure on the single scroll headers limits, It's something I haven't seen much ..yet. I know they can hit 250wkw +, just not sure how high they go. Personally amazed people with stock cars waste money on headers when they could spend that on a good set of tyres/rims/ shocks and literally go faster lol
  14. If you're only running a vf22 I wouldn't bother