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logan25

Engine Knock reported BTSSM

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Yea. Always good to have some brake clean to spray round to keep things oil free.

Learnt that from refrig. Nothing worse than chasing your tail on a potential leak that doesn't actually exist anymore.

 

If I was you i’d go on partsouq and grab all the gaskets/seals/o-rings for the intake and replace the lot. Shouldn't be too expensive. New injector O-rings aren't a bad idea either.

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First time using the site, lots of stuff there! 

 

So far I think I will need: 

Intake Gasket 14035AA492

Fuel injector seals 16608AA040

 

Other seals for the BPV, airduct from turbo aren’t in stock. However mine look good, and didnt show anything in boost leak test.

Any other seals you can recommend to get? I havent ventured to much further apart from the ones above. Thanks 

 

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If anyone feels like enlightening me on this issue.

 

Boost under WOT: Factory tune,


Boost target, consistently 14 PSI according to ECU. 
 

Actual boost, jumps up to 16 PSI for a few seconds then slowly returns to a stable 14 PSI, is this usual? 

 

 

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57 minutes ago, logan25 said:

If anyone feels like enlightening me on this issue.

 

Boost under WOT: Factory tune,


Boost target, consistently 14 PSI according to ECU. 
 

Actual boost, jumps up to 16 PSI for a few seconds then slowly returns to a stable 14 PSI, is this usual? 

 

The map isn't 14 across the board. It should be lower down low so that the ECU doesn't try correct too far.

 

If it is asking for 14 and you're making 10 it'll be making corrections with the wastegate to try get there. So as soon as there is enough exhaust gas to make 14 it'll overshoot for a second until it can open the wastegate enough to drop the boost back down. 

 

This is super common for cars with free flowing intakes/exhausts on the stock tune, sometimes even without those mods.

 

How is you IAM and LV looking now?

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Posted (edited)

Okay yes that makes sense, sort of what I'd imagined would be happening. Have made a fixed install of the nexus and noticed it was pulling upto 16 PSI then drops to 14 after a few seconds. 

 

- Regarding IAM, since running 100 octane, never dropped below 1. Good sign.

 

- Learning view, still have the high negative values at idle but haven't done anything to fix as was away on holiday. I have received the intake manifold seals, just waiting for the fuel injector seals (Part suoq screwing me around with the order) and will replace. Will probably put another pair of used injectors in as well. Hopefully this weekend if not next all will be here. 

 

-Funnily enough the stutter decide to re-appear at 2,800 RPM. My first runs it was fixed after changing vacuum source for FPR (so I thought). Maybe too longer line now? All connections are tight. Didn't reset the ECU, could have learned it? Will re-inspect again when doing the work, could be the FPR requiring a change? 

 

Learning lots as I go 😁


Edit: Just thinking aloud here. Low rpm, negative boost is running. So essentially a vacuum is running throughout the entire intake system including post turbo? Is that correct?

Edited by logan25
Thinking

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So replaced the fuel injectors with a set from a lower KM engine. Seals I ordered were for the fuel rail, not the actual injector so didnt change them, looked like another big process.

 

Also changed the intake manifold seal with the newer thicker O ring.

 

But still have the high negative fuel trim at idle. Have reset computer and test driven.

 

Not to sure what next step would be, might start having to look around the downpipe/O2 area.

 

 

 

 

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Could try o2 sensor too. How high is the idle trim? Could be reg but isn't common. What colour are the injectors?

 

I'd almost be tempted to say stuff it and just tweak the tune to get rid of it. 

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Yeah im thinking trying to get rid of it via tune may be way to go.

 

I did inspect and replace the O2 sensor a while ago, when it came out had a bit of white deposits on it, thought that indicated lean henced made no sense why ECU would pull fuel, however my AFR always seems to in the correct range for power settings.


Next time im looking at the car might have to inspect everything near turbo and downstream.

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So I had the nexus unplugged for a few days while I sorted out a suitable charging system, plugged in again, I see the LV has dropped to -10.6 at idle. This is an improvement since it always sat at around the -15 earlier, will keep monitoring it, hopefully it swings around to within the -5 range, 

 

On another note, anyone had much luck with good OTG charger for the Nexus setup? Got one from recommended from amazon and it only outputs 1,200 mA, seems to only just keep the nexus alive and barely charges on shortish trips. 

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1200 is pretty good if you're reading that in powereventmanager. I never see more than high 900’s. If you're doing sub 10/15min drives you'll never really stay on top of it. 

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So here's an interesting update:

 

Decided it was time to get tuned by Cyro in an attempt to fix the fuel learn issues, was planning to change cambelt, water pump and oil this weekend, before the tune. Previous cambelt was done 40,000KM ago. 

Driving today, noticed car was 'idling a bit weird', as in wouldnt hold idle very well wanting to stall the engine almost. Coolant temp starts to spike, quickly pull car off the road, shut down. Inspect and seems okay (I thought). After 20mins of cooling down, restarted, sounded terrible and within 5 seconds heard a dreaded snap and engine died. Tow back to house, and yep as I thought, cambelt had fully snapped. 

Now to decide:

To go ahead and install the cambelt I got for it (and hope for no internal damage such as valves, pistons etc). 

Or

Throw the spare EJ20X engine into it (is currently an EJ20Y as manual trans') and go down the path of getting tuned for the new engine. Are the same year, 2006, hopefully should be not to many issues with the swap. That could fix potential stutter issues, knock issues and the fuel learn issues. Engine has 130,000km. 

 

All is character building :) 

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I wonder if the cambelt prior to snapping had stretched, throwing out the cam timing etc. A reputable shop I use suggests a timeframe and not just a KM based cam belt swap for Subaru’s.

 

Highly likely you have damage, would need to be inspected 

Edited by Omsin
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10 hours ago, logan25 said:

So here's an interesting update:

 

Decided it was time to get tuned by Cyro in an attempt to fix the fuel learn issues, was planning to change cambelt, water pump and oil this weekend, before the tune. Previous cambelt was done 40,000KM ago. 

Driving today, noticed car was 'idling a bit weird', as in wouldnt hold idle very well wanting to stall the engine almost. Coolant temp starts to spike, quickly pull car off the road, shut down. Inspect and seems okay (I thought). After 20mins of cooling down, restarted, sounded terrible and within 5 seconds heard a dreaded snap and engine died. Tow back to house, and yep as I thought, cambelt had fully snapped. 

Now to decide:

To go ahead and install the cambelt I got for it (and hope for no internal damage such as valves, pistons etc). 

Or

Throw the spare EJ20X engine into it (is currently an EJ20Y as manual trans') and go down the path of getting tuned for the new engine. Are the same year, 2006, hopefully should be not to many issues with the swap. That could fix potential stutter issues, knock issues and the fuel learn issues. Engine has 130,000km. 

 

All is character building :) 

That is terrifying,  Surely there is a reason for a low mileage belt to snap like that. maybe a damaged pulley or something else in the timing related kit? 

 

If the 20X is known good id go with that. or if you use your original 20Y at least pull the heads and make sure the pistons didn't kiss any valves 

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Have you found any seized idlers/ bearings? Something else touching the belt? Seems crazy it would just snap unless something was wearing it down or jammed somewhere. 
 

Agree with A_J_T, they are the same engine so shouldn't have any real problems swapping them over.

Then pull the other one apart and see what went wrong.

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2 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

Have you found any seized idlers/ bearings? Something else touching the belt? Seems crazy it would just snap unless something was wearing it down or jammed somewhere. 
 

Agree with A_J_T, they are the same engine so shouldn't have any real problems swapping them over.

Then pull the other one apart and see what went wrong.

 

Yeah I will pull off the front case at the weekend and find the culprit, I expect something was rubbing on it over time. 

 

Just prior to pulling engine might throw an old belt on and see if it starts. Maybe on the off chance everything somehow survived.

Looking at just doing the EJ20X swap, hopefully shouldn't give too many headaches.

 

Although I do have a question if anyone can answer:

It is always known that the auto model with the EJ20X produce 260 BHP, whereas the manuals with the EJ20Y always produced 280BHP, is this a de-tune in the ECU causing this or actual engine difference?

 

 

Edited by logan25

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From what we know it's just a detune. Various head and block part numbers cross over between the two which indicates no difference

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12 hours ago, logan25 said:

Just prior to pulling engine might throw an old belt on and see if it starts. Maybe on the off chance everything somehow survived.

I'm a fan of easy fixes so this sounds like a decent idea. Although if it runs do a compression test before you celebrate 

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Well against the odds the engine still roars into life - THANKFULLY

 

Appears that in the previous cambelt replacement, the waterpump was not replaced and some of the idlers were not replaced either. From what it appears, the waterpump seized completely, and one of the idlers was somewhat destroyed, hence the belt didnt actually fully break, just lost tension and melted in places. Must have been serious heat as were lots of burn marks on the tensioner as well. Luckily I had the new cambelt kit on hand so all is back. 
 

 

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