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help!


bubblz

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so i took my car to get my subs wired in today at myaudio in newtown and while my car was there i got him to change my hdi boost controller unit to another unit of the same kind [ sbc type d i think it was ..subaru specific one]

one of the toggles wouldnt click back in place so got them to send me another unit..

well i went back to the shop paid the fella ,found out my amp is shit house and seriously underpowered for my 2 subs so ok il sort it out later..jumped in the car ,start her up and engine check light came up...i was like wtf?

he said when he connected the plugs it threw a spark..so now gota to see his friend tommorow [auto electrician friend] to reset?

its boosting up to 5 pounds and cuts out [surge/cutout] so im guessing its in limp mode right now?

gaaaah just wot i dont need right now..

any info /help would be awesome as im unsure if its limp mode or something more sinister...

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Sounds nasty if you've had a spark you could try the reset hopefully he hasn't fried anything, have you checked the fault codes 1st before you reset it to actually see whats faulting?.

he wants you to go to his mate as then his mate can look after his mate by the sounds, be careful i would be going somewhere else.

sorry i can't help more

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there will be two green plugs next to two black plugs, connect the black to check and the green to reset i think thats how it goes.

you won't be able to break it more than it i,s just make sure you find the instructions 1st.

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so afta much squeezing and squirming to get to the cel code connectors [which is frikkin hard by the ways my arm wouldnt fit under there to get them connected..lol] i got the code 44..wastegate control solinoid...now wot do i do?..lol...im guessing if im lucky a reset might work...at least i learnt how to check for cel code for the first time...

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 bubblz said:

so afta much squeezing and squirming to get to the cel code connectors [which is frikkin hard by the ways my arm wouldnt fit under there to get them connected..lol] i got the code 44..wastegate control solinoid...now wot do i do?..lol...im guessing if im lucky a reset might work...at least i learnt how to check for cel code for the first time...

Steve King had this issue, ask him how he fixed his issues

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yup will be taking it back to the fella and making him fix and pay for any other damages..

seems potentially ecu may suffered damage..i hope not but will see tommorow..

i tried resetting ecu ..connected green connector and black connectors and drove it from the main mirimar roundabout to airport roundabout and still spat out cel 44

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wasn't by chance a cheap Chinese amp?

once apon a time long ago

I made the mistake of buying a brand new Chinese amp with XXX rated output, it was 100$ seemed legit, got the amp plugged it in, it went for about 2 seconds, smoked up burning plastic smell an fried itself. (later confirmed it was STUFFED, basically the capacitor wasn't high enough rated for the output or something I was told, disassembled took detailed pics an thats what i was told)

Took it back he wouldn't refund it because it was "badly installed' I was lol prove it, he reckons a loose wire touched the other negative wire an fried it.. I was like F off you cheap XXXX give me my money back, he refused.(that reminds me I have illegal window breaking todo)

brought a decent 2nd hand unit for 50$ installed without changing any wiring an it went first time an never stopped to this day almost 2 years later

fukn dick head trademe sellers. yea yea i installed it wrong its real hard to assemble a few wires you slimey bastard.

cough rant over

p.s dont buy from cheap asain imports places they are dodgey as hell have like a 20% failure rate.theyre not cheap for no reason.DRAGON AUDIO = FAIL

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I fitted Steve's one. HDI being of cheap chinese quality had the grounding/power wires labelled incorrectly in the wiring diagram, not to mention the thin flimsy wires which were hard to strip without actually cutting/breaking them. The dials on his one also didn't retract and click.

Not sure what the colour codes are from the top of my head, but I ended up using my own power and ground feed - as the ecu wiring diagrams (supplied) were also incorrect for that model. It helps to have a V3/4 myself.

MyAudio, yeah I've heard of them. A mate bought a JVC headunit from them - they deal mainly in Parallel Imported stuff (aimed at the Asian markets). The manuals were not in english and the NZ equivalent model had features such as RDS on the FM - which this one lacked. Unsure if the build quality was the same or not, as my mate sold his car shortly after. They offered free install but my mate said no. I fitted it.

But generally I don't trust asian dealers, that Sony place on the top of Tory St (opp the Noel Leeming/Warehouse building) also springs to mind. I went in to enquire about stuff, but would never get them to supply and fit.

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i think its a case of the guy making a really bad simple mistake...jase originally installed my hdi boost controller for me and never had a problem..it was just the build quality that was the problem so i had a new unit sent to me...i finally thought of getting it redone and was gona get jase to do my wiring up of sub and amp aswell[which i should off by the way jase...i just got impatient..sorry]..so being the impatient one i went to myaudio as i had my alarm installed there.

got him to do my sub and amp install and i mentioned for him to change over the hdi controller while doing so thinking he would have everything disconnected as he was pulling out head unit and attaching power line? to amp..but obviously not in this case..

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update: so all seems well now..it seems a loose wire from new unit to connector was the cause..i told him i wanted the old one chuck in to see if it goes back to normal and it did..then he spotted the loose wire so he fixed that...now no check engine light and not in limp mode! yuss..possibly a happy ending unless something else creeps up ;D

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