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how hard is it to swap a ej20


off2harrys
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as title says is it easy for even a unmechanically minded person like myself?anyone have a awesome detailed "how to" with heapsa pics ( ;D)?and while were at it anyone have a supercheap mint condition sti longblock v1-v4?my 3rd engine failure in less then 15000km and two were forged FARRRRKKKKKK

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 WRXONP said:

what are ya motors dying from ? think how much the dead motors have cost ya and think how much of a mean motor you could have had with all the wasted money . you need to get the issue sorted

+1. get the issue sorted before you cook another one... ur throwing cash away.

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No mechanics ever been able to gets this car to run right,ive spent SO much money trying to get this car driving to its standard reliability, when it could handle my thrashings.both rebuids were built for me professionally, i dont know how the warranty would go ive had quite a bit of work done to the engine

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although you're rebuilding the block, you're probably using the same: ecu, injectors, fuel lines, fuel pump, coils, leads, wiring loom. it's nothing to do with the car, it's just a shell, it doesn't have a jinx attached to it. something in the above list is fucked. you need to figure out what before you do anything else. if you want a gauranteed fix, replace everything!

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I dont think the wiring loom has been changed,everything else has some multiple times with no luck,although my walbro pumps been there for prob 15000km now and has been there for both forged blocks but surely you should get more out of it than that.injectors,rails,lines and g4 were all put in less than 1000kms ago,maybe that ugly froth in the oil filler pipe wasnt just condensation

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and what do you mean by that joker ? i don't get it ?

there's obviously a fault and that fault has been there with all your motors . . . and if it wasn't running right then why are you thrashing it ? your asking it to pretty please blow up for me . . .

i would say at a guess the milky throth was blown head gasket . . . we need more details as we can't see the car we can only go off what your saying

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 rex-leggy said:

even so if professionally rebuilt most engines will have 20,000 km warranty.

what ecu do you run ? standard?

All 3 different failures have had a diff ecu, the latest has a g4 in it tuned a few weeks back.yea im gonna go see my old mechanic today see if i can still scam something on warranty the only prob is i dont use the car much,this last engine did 5000km but its been 11months and in that time its had alot of work done (fmic,800 sards,rails,split lines,link,intake mani and TB and 10psi more boost (was only running wastegate pressure prior 7psi??)so i doubt any warranty would still be honoured
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First 2 were pistons,i think this might be a beb sounded farkin ugly and when my other 2 died they ceased,this time i could still drive for bit and could still turn it over for the mechanics,i want to get back to thrashing like when i first got it but havent on the last 1 its been to sick,1st forged 1 was prob my fault giving it boost after about 5mins of nana driving,the last engine though got hardly any boost, id warm it for abit then nana it for about 10mins,then id norm be where ever i was going so i still wouldnt get my boost fix for the day.my old mechanic didnt know why the first forgey died it obliterated a eagle and wiseco and a few valves,my next 1 hasnt been looked at yet only died yesterday.what are symptoms a HG failing? it was still driving "alright" with the froth was overheating or anything

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lol valves getting hit by the piston would make me think timing belt slipped . . . pistons dying would be detonation . . or lean burning . big end bearing is either oil failure or detonation . . . .also with seizing it you can heat seize it. which means when you over heat it the piston swell and get stuck in the bore . or you can seize it from oil failure which is running the bearings dry and basically welding the bearings to the crank

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No boost for 1000km then took it back for a service,tryed to keep load on th engine,i think the 2nd engine was rubbish from the start was definately rattlier than the previous engine,i heard/read wiseco are 1 of the noisier pistons but i think the clearances were way too big even the first 1, they never got quieter when warm the whole car would rock,the second he just replaced the 1 damaged rod n piston which my other mechanic somewhat frowned upon

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