[OPINIONS] forged closed deck block project

[Guest]

hi there guys ive got a closed deck block at home which ive decided to build finally.

Im planning on forging the bottom end with some wiseco oversized pistons with the help of b42000 hooking it up with some eagle rods. i plan on getting the crank polished with some acl race bearings.

the head sides of things im planning on putting on some version 3 sti heads with a port and polish. and maybe some kelford cams. 264 intake and 272 exhaust.

fuellling im thinking of now going top feed id1000s in the split rail obviously

turbo wise i think im going to have a chat to steve murch and see if he can work his magic on a holset hx30 and probably go g4 ecu on this one.

im contemplating getting the head and pistons ceramic coated :-\ not too sure atm

im getting the block bored and honed by .5 to suit the oversized pistons.

water pump idlers and tensioners all will be replaced and oil pump and all.

questions:

1) does anyone know anyone in auckland that does a good job at boring and honing without charging moonbeans.

2) is there anyone else who has run a similar setup on their car?

3) should i upgrade the valves and springs etc in the head while im at it or should the sti ones be up to the task?

4) adjustable cam gears? worth it?

5) is there anything else bar a baffled sump that will strengthen my bottem end? pretty much wanna make it bulletproof

6) worth upgrading the oil pump to something off a later model sti?

[gotasuby]

 VADZTER said:

hi there guys ive got a closed deck block at home which ive decided to build finally.

Im planning on forging the bottom end with some wiseco oversized pistons with the help of b42000 hooking it up with some eagle rods. i plan on getting the crank polished with some acl race bearings.

the head sides of things im planning on putting on some version 3 sti heads with a port and polish. and maybe some kelford cams. 264 intake and 272 exhaust.

fuellling im thinking of now going top feed id1000s in the split rail obviously

turbo wise i think im going to have a chat to steve murch and see if he can work his magic on a holset hx30 and probably go g4 ecu on this one.

im contemplating getting the head and pistons ceramic coated :-\ not too sure atm

im getting the block bored and honed by .5 to suit the oversized pistons.

water pump idlers and tensioners all will be replaced and oil pump and all.

questions:

1) does anyone know anyone in auckland that does a good job at boring and honing without charging moonbeans.

2) is there anyone else who has run a similar setup on their car?

3) should i upgrade the valves and springs etc in the head while im at it or should the sti ones be up to the task?

4) adjustable cam gears? worth it?

5) is there anything else bar a baffled sump that will strengthen my bottem end? pretty much wanna make it bulletproof

6) worth upgrading the oil pump to something off a later model sti?

1, not in auckland so cant help you sorry

2, i would personally run a hx35 with twin scroll headers and a hx30 isnt very good on a petrol, but single scroll hx35 will have a high boost threshhold.

3. Do valve springs at least, i have had multiple engine faliures recently due to spring issues. they are cheap insurance.

4, yes for the last few free kw. moddify the steel ones. i have an engineer that can do it if you want?

5, run a twin scroll sump as you will need to with headers and they have better oil pickup properties.

6, only really need to upgrade oil pump if you have something using lots more oil

[thorpy]

ARP Studs!!

I changed to aftermarket valves and cost me just over $400 for 16 brand new valves.

[Guest]

Whats the power goal here dude? That driveline will need some love... What power will that TD06 you have make? Just get it molested by steve? Be a tad more cost effective imo. People say 300kw is limit for eagles but then stock V7 sti rods can make that for prolonged periods of time. :-\

If doing cams that big make sure you run the whole setup through your tuner so everything makes sense when it comes power time. Dont want a set of cams that dont perform together.

Damn this sounds like a lot of money lol.

[jost]

Also another important step is to get the entire rotating assembly including crank pulley and flywheel balanced, increases the reliability long term.

[Guest]

 gotasuby']

[quote name='VADZTER said:

hi there guys ive got a closed deck block at home which ive decided to build finally.

Im planning on forging the bottom end with some wiseco oversized pistons with the help of b42000 hooking it up with some eagle rods. i plan on getting the crank polished with some acl race bearings.

the head sides of things im planning on putting on some version 3 sti heads with a port and polish. and maybe some kelford cams. 264 intake and 272 exhaust.

fuellling im thinking of now going top feed id1000s in the split rail obviously

turbo wise i think im going to have a chat to steve murch and see if he can work his magic on a holset hx30 and probably go g4 ecu on this one.

im contemplating getting the head and pistons ceramic coated :-\ not too sure atm

im getting the block bored and honed by .5 to suit the oversized pistons.

water pump idlers and tensioners all will be replaced and oil pump and all.

questions:

1) does anyone know anyone in auckland that does a good job at boring and honing without charging moonbeans.

2) is there anyone else who has run a similar setup on their car?

3) should i upgrade the valves and springs etc in the head while im at it or should the sti ones be up to the task?

4) adjustable cam gears? worth it?

5) is there anything else bar a baffled sump that will strengthen my bottem end? pretty much wanna make it bulletproof

6) worth upgrading the oil pump to something off a later model sti?

/quote]

1, not in auckland so cant help you sorry

2, i would personally run a hx35 with twin scroll headers and a hx30 isnt very good on a petrol, but single scroll hx35 will have a high boost threshhold.

3. Do valve springs at least, i have had multiple engine faliures recently due to spring issues. they are cheap insurance.

4, yes for the last few free kw. moddify the steel ones. i have an engineer that can do it if you want?

5, run a twin scroll sump as you will need to with headers and they have better oil pickup properties.

6, only really need to upgrade oil pump if you have something using lots more oil

So hx35 twin scroll won\'t run as much boost as a single scroll? But twin scroll will be less laggy? Fuel economy not an issue as will only be weekend car.

I will definitely let you know when I get to the cam gear stage.

With the twin scroll sump ill need the twin scroll oil pickup too aye?

I think you are right about the valves. Might as well do them while I\'m at it. As with the springs.

Will definitely be adding an oil cooler into the mix somewhere. So might upgrade oil pump too

[rex-leggy]

hx35 twin scroll will handle enough for what you\'ll want to do and come on boost alot earlier.

youll want the sump, pickup and the windage tray (pretty sure you can use the non ts windage tray)

if your doing cams def do at least springs

prob wouldn\'t bother with a bigger oil pump tho

my last setup was very similar and was a very fun car! which made 315kw @4600 with a blown headgasket

[Guest]

 thorpy']

ARP Studs!!

I changed to aftermarket valves and cost me just over $400 for 16 brand new valves.

Oh yea arp head studs were a no brainer lol definitely doing that. Were those titanium valves you upgraded to?

[quote name='evowrx said:

Whats the power goal here dude? That driveline will need some love... What power will that TD06 you have make? Just get it molested by steve? Be a tad more cost effective imo. People say 300kw is limit for eagles but then stock V7 sti rods can make that for prolonged periods of time. :-\

If doing cams that big make sure you run the whole setup through your tuner so everything makes sense when it comes power time. Dont want a set of cams that dont perform together.

Damn this sounds like a lot of money lol.

With this I\'m hoping to get at least 300kw out of it. Eagle rods better not snap at 300kw or else that\'s just disappointing for forged rods. I\'ve heard of evos running a lot more power with eagle rods.

I was thinking about getting him to tinker with the td06 but tbh I think I would be better off selling that setup as a whole with the injectors and ecu it was tuned with

I think the cams would work well with this setup but ill definitely have a chat to some tuners and see what others have done and what the best combo could be.

I agree the driveline will just as strong as thin ice on a setup like this so maybe look into a type r box or if I\'m lucky a 6 speed

[Guest]

 rex-leggy said:

hx35 twin scroll will handle enough for what you\'ll want to do and come on boost alot earlier.

youll want the sump, pickup and the windage tray (pretty sure you can use the non ts windage tray)

if your doing cams def do at least springs

prob wouldn\'t bother with a bigger oil pump tho

my last setup was very similar and was a very fun car!

What sort of power did you make on it and what was the torque figures like?

Nice wide power band?

[rex-leggy]

 VADZTER']

[quote name='rex-leggy said:

hx35 twin scroll will handle enough for what you\'ll want to do and come on boost alot earlier.

youll want the sump, pickup and the windage tray (pretty sure you can use the non ts windage tray)

if your doing cams def do at least springs

prob wouldn\'t bother with a bigger oil pump tho

my last setup was very similar and was a very fun car!

/quote]

What sort of power did you make on it and what was the torque figures like?

Nice wide power band?

as above 315kw @4600 rmp with a blown headgasket

thats were they stopped.

boost came on early and thats with the bigger hx40

was very fun to drive ! gotasuby knows he tuned it

im trying to find the dyno thread there\'s a pic of the plot there

[rex-leggy]

was with av gas and water meth injection

[Guest]

That\'s a very nice power curve and that\'s a decent amount of torque too! That must have been a delight to drive man. And you recently sold that setup aye?

[rex-leggy]

i still have everything really . on the new car ill be making new up-pipe and downpipe ect .

was really nice .... id go crasy with bucket loads of lag

[Guest]

If 300kw just throw in a forged shortie, stock sti heads and mess with the TD06. Fab is bloody expensive to get up/down pipes made without throwing T/S into the mix. Picking moneys not an issue tho lol. Will let you know how mine goes anyway.

[thorpy]

 VADZTER']

[quote name='thorpy said:

ARP Studs!!

I changed to aftermarket valves and cost me just over $400 for 16 brand new valves.

/quote]

Oh yea arp head studs were a no brainer lol definitely doing that. Were those titanium valves you upgraded to?

Inconel

[rex-leggy]

if you do end up going with a hx35 let me know as my up pipe/ downpipe will work.

getting somthing like that made does cost mega bucks as evo said unless you can fab it yourself

[Guest]

 rex-leggy']

if you do end up going with a hx35 let me know as my up pipe/ downpipe will work.

getting somthing like that made does cost mega bucks as evo said unless you can fab it yourself

i definitely will hit you up on that. is that a twin scroll up and downpipe?

If 300kw just throw in a forged shortie, stock sti heads and mess with the TD06. Fab is bloody expensive to get up/down pipes made without throwing T/S into the mix. Picking moneys not an issue tho lol. Will let you know how mine goes anyway.

there is a fabricator called steel surgeon up in auckland that does some good work for a decent price aye

[quote name='rex-leggy said:

hx35 twin scroll will handle enough for what you\'ll want to do and come on boost alot earlier.

youll want the sump, pickup and the windage tray (pretty sure you can use the non ts windage tray)

if your doing cams def do at least springs

prob wouldn\'t bother with a bigger oil pump tho

my last setup was very similar and was a very fun car!

/quote]

What sort of power did you make on it and what was the torque figures like?

Nice wide power band?

as above 315kw @4600 rmp with a blown headgasket

thats were they stopped.

boost came on early and thats with the bigger hx40

was very fun to drive ! gotasuby knows he tuned it

im trying to find the dyno thread there\'s a pic of the plot there

good lord!!! thats a LOT of power hahaha videos?

[funkytown]

 VADZTER said:

questions:

1) does anyone know anyone in auckland that does a good job at boring and honing without charging moonbeans.

2) is there anyone else who has run a similar setup on their car?

3) should i upgrade the valves and springs etc in the head while im at it or should the sti ones be up to the task?

4) adjustable cam gears? worth it?

5) is there anything else bar a baffled sump that will strengthen my bottem end? pretty much wanna make it bulletproof

6) worth upgrading the oil pump to something off a later model sti?

personally i think cams are not worth the dollars spent for a given outcome (in an EJ that is for what you\'ve described).

1) unsure in AKL sorry

2) yer i have access to 2 cars + run similar to your set up i beleive

3) good factory heads are more than reasonable for right up to 300+ kw dude. get them tested and re set correctly and they are mint (save the $$)

4) yup they are very good for engine balance and good VE, as gotasuby said machine out factory steel ones

5) any oil starvation will kill a motor, you can only try to starve that off with a good sump / baffles / gates etc. Talk to engine build and set it up according to how you want to use the car. A SS sump can be just as good as a TS one.

6) i\'ve seen very good results on 10, 11 and 12mm pumps, AS LONG AS THERE IS OIL IN THE SUMP. note that if you are going near AVCS / AVLS then minimum 11mm pump is recommended.

Personally for a 2.0 forged motor any Holset is going to be rather laggy. find something with a slightly smaller wheelset, around the 55/60mm turbine, 70mm compressor, i.e gt3071\'ish size and you get ~300wheel and very good response. You can use those wheel sizes to find go for any other brand im sure too, no big req to go garrett.

also steer clear of mismatched wheels, the likes of td05/06 and 3076/3082 type stuff. also stuff like vf anything with 18g wheels. they just suck.

3076 is to big, 3582 WAY to big on 2.0l

holsets are good and proven to do the good, but you need things like TS, AVCS and 2.35 stroker and above builds to make them run right. - imo

/2c

[Ninja8)]

If you are planning on going TS.. Marc has a complete setup incl turbo exhaust manifold sump etc

[Guest]

 Ninja 8) said:

If you are planning on going TS.. Marc has a complete setup incl turbo exhaust manifold sump etc

Actually seriously considering TS aye. Ill flick him a txt

[rex-leggy]

videos?

all i could really find haha

im on at 1.57

[Eight_dollar]

Eagle rods are pretty average - hence why they are so cheap $650

They will support 250 fine - after that they kill small end bushes, 280+ they bend - proven twice !

Argo rods have proven to be much stronger - although fatory machining can be suspect at times

FWIW - a dry sump system incorporating the factory oil pump isnt that expensive compared to build costs

Funky - pushing OEM cams is fine - Engine power is all about how well an engine can breathe at set rpms

a decent set of spec\'d cams will out perform OEM

[Zeus]

Well if you want go 6 speed here is all you need

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/other/auction-622508407.htm

[Guest]

Any difference between version 3/4 sti heads and v4 Sti type r heads?

[jazza]

Any fabrication work id get sinco customs, well proven power results with warranty on his products. I had racefab do a manifold and ic piping amd it looked like a one arm apprentice did it.....and racefab is good company which was dissapointing.

For engine, personally id talk to the likes of gary capper as he had a daily 350wkw wrx and he said that his setup made it drive like stock/smooth and reliable. Or discuss options with who ever you have innmind to tune it.