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An idiot's guide to hotting up your TT legacy


Marky
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 B4 I was 250T said:
I like all of this EXCEPT the idea of fiddling with the ECV rod. Me being me I'll F it up

You literally can't get it wrong, its a single threaded rod you can make longer or shorter by turning it. Worst part of the job is getting the heat shields out the way

Easy as to get it right - just loosen the locking nuts, wind it out, start the car, it'll sound like arse, then as you wind it in the flapper will start to rattle and you'll hear the exhaust change to the dubdubdub noise.

Then once the rattle stops, go maybe one or two turns more, lock it in place, please see your doctor if pain persists

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 B4 I was 250T said:
I like all of this EXCEPT the idea of fiddling with the ECV rod. Me being me I'll F it up

I cans shows youses hows its doneses!!:confused:

As Marky said, the most PITA thing is getting the heatsheild off, as it so happens I have not put mine back on yet since putting the new motor in (slack I know), so that bits done already!

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After reading Marky's post, I tweaked the actuator rod on the ECV, and it was well toite, toiter than a Tiger even.

It took 3 1/2 full turns to get it to rattle, which would explain why it was being a big goofy on transition, so we'll see if its better tomorrow morning.

Also did the hose mod, to we'll see if that helps as well.:)

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 Percy said:
After reading Marky's post, I tweaked the actuator rod on the ECV, and it was well toite, toiter than a Tiger even.

It took 3 1/2 full turns to get it to rattle, which would explain why it was being a big goofy on transition, so we'll see if its better tomorrow morning.

Also did the hose mod, to we'll see if that helps as well.:)

Eagerly awaiting your findings buddy boy :)

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Interesting...:confused:

So this morning after playing with stuff last night, it had basically no primary boost, and an explosion of boost at about 4500-5000rpm.

Was exciting, but not terribly drivable, or practical.

Either I have f*#ked up which hoses go where, or I've got the ECV adjusted way wrong.

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Yeah I found the same this morning without the pressure switch. Theory is good, in practise it's sh!t. Not sure how the aussie guys found it any different or maybe they never actually did it?

We'll consign that plan to the bin, haha

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 Marky said:
Yeah I found the same this morning without the pressure switch. Theory is good, in practise it's sh!t. Not sure how the aussie guys found it any different or maybe they never actually did it?

We'll consign that plan to the bin, haha

I'm wondering if a restriction in the pressure line to the ECV would help to control how much the valve opens?

Something like the ghetto irrigation tap I have in Line 1.

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Righto chaps and chapettes, interesting developments!

I tried a tap thingy at various openings in the pressure line to the ECV, which I had plumbed up to line 12, as it was the closest line from the manifold to the ECV.

Fail, made no change to anything apparently, so ripped that out.

Then re-read the instructions on Subyclub, and he had it plumbed into line 22 from the secondary BOV/ SPV, derp!

So I've stuck it in that one instead and hey presto, it works as per normal, as far as I can tell from a drive round the block dodging the potholes down by the river.

Maybe a bit quicker to close the ECV after the usual weirdness from changing during VOD.

Will see if it does anything particularly noticeable next time I get to take it for a blat somewhere that isn't a pothole infested 50k zone...:rolleyes:

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 B4 I was 250T said:
Lol :D go for a fang to Northwood super centre! Do it! Do it! No pressure lol :D

Yeah... nah, beer, food, slack!

Plus tomorrow morning there is 80k zones, as long as there are not 3000 other cars trying to use it at the same time... fangtastic!:cool::P

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 Marky said:
Yeah I found the same this morning without the pressure switch. Theory is good, in practise it's sh!t. Not sure how the aussie guys found it any different or maybe they never actually did it?

We'll consign that plan to the bin, haha

i'm not aware of anyone doing what you've described. a few people bypass the positive pressure circuit entirely though.

from what i've read, the ecv will be almost fully open when it has 4psi positive pressure. the default configuration has a solenoid bleeding off quite a lot of the boost to this port when ecv positive pressure is activated.

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Well I found a section of 80k road without 3000 other cars on it, and things are pretty good yah!

It definitely closes the ECV faster if you do change in the VOD area, was down to about a second if you use full throttle in the next gear, maybe 3 seconds if you go to part throttle.

Much better than the time to make a coffee and peruse the tardme cool auctions amount of seconds it was before!

I notice it does make a weird sort of "whoop" noise the first time you boot it through the VOD (which is amost non-existant again, back to boost then moar boost, yay!), but that doesn't seem to make any difference to anything. Maybe the cars just cheering that its getting to be all lolzy boosting.:cool:

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Interestingly the car vomited up a Code 66 yesterday, when I was being a dick and changed in teh middle of VOD and floored it, wouldn't come out of derp no boost mode then did the fun fuel cut thing the whole way home.

Yay.

So now its back to stock, just with the ECV rod adjusted properly, seems to go fine and even VOD gear changing isn't too horrendously slow.

No idea what planet of weirdness them Aussies are on to think it does anything useful...:confused:

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The ECU on my RevD keeps ECV positive pressure engaged after changing into the VOD. The engine is still in vacuum at this point so this would help pull the ECV shut, as you've described above. I think unfortunately it's just extremely slow to close.

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  • 5 years later...
  • Admin
14 hours ago, Rslover said:

With changing the turbos to vf26/27 do you need a tune?

Theoretically, yes. Reality no.

The MAF should be able to take care of any variation in airflow from turbo differences. Wouldn't hurt getting the car tuned if it hasn't been before though. They really come alive after one. 

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  • General Member
1 hour ago, Dairusire said:

getting the car tuned

 

I know there's advances in TT' Ecu tech since I was playing but 'only' the later Gen 3's are tuneable right? (OBd2)

 

unless they've done something silly like I did & popped them into a Gen 2 :P then "computer says no . jpg" (OBD1)

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  • Admin
3 hours ago, Joker said:

 

I know there's advances in TT' Ecu tech since I was playing but 'only' the later Gen 3's are tuneable right? (OBd2)

 

unless they've done something silly like I did & popped them into a Gen 2 :P then "computer says no . jpg" (OBD1)

Rev D is tunable, Revs A/B/C arent. Pretty sure the RevD switch over was early 2001.

 

Your Fuji Heavy Industry tag in the engine way will say BH5* where * is A,B,C or D

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