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Question about GF8


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I am new to this form, and a relatively new owner to an Subaru, (but I have been a fan since I was born, I growing up watching rally footage, while other kids were watching Pokemon).       I have owned my MY99 blue GF8 WRX UK spec for about 6 month now, everything is stock. I feel the power is enough for now, but the handling is not in a way I expected(never driven a real one until i owned my car, but play lot's of simulation game). It under-steer aaaaaaaaaaaaa lot.   I have pumped rear wheel to higher PSI than front wheel, the car under-steer under acceleration, like at roundabout. I feel like the rear diff is a open diff, I can't get the rearend out without useing handbreak, even on gravel

I think to replace the rear diff to an LSD will reduce under-steer under acceleration, can anyone provide me some info about this kind of mod. Like what is the final drive of the stock diff, what kind of diff i can change to? Thanks

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Best bar for a gf8 is the 22mm adjustable whiteline one. Made a massive difference to my wagon. On the middle setting it was perfect on the tightest slightly too much almost felt like it had 4w steer. 


The diff should be lsd pretty much every subaru turbo rear diff is. Just jack up the rear and spin a wheel to check.

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Thanks for your reply, but from my understanding, the stronger rear sway-bar makes the rear suspension move more like one unit, basically reduce the Tyre contact to make the rear end more dynamic, would make the car more unstable at high speed, and reduce the cornering speed limit. I think the car rear-end will be allover the place under brake.  That why I have the idea about a better rear diff in the first place.  Those are just my thought, could be totally wrong, i have never done any mod to any car in the past. So correct me if i am wrong, thanks

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Thanks for all the advice, now I think the white line adjustable 22mm rear swaybar is the way to go. But since my tires are old, I think i will do a proper Wheel alignment when i change to new tires. Maybe add an front struct top bar as well to balance it out. Should i just buy the swaybar from website, and install it myself? Can I install it properly without lifting the car? I only have normal car jack come with the car.

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Ideally you'd use a trolley jack on the rear diff and insert axle stands to lower it onto. This way there will be no tension on the bar when you go to remove the arb links as the rear wheels should be level off the ground in droop. It will be much safer to get under too. Could you borrow those? Lifting the rear diff with a scissor jack sounds dodgy.

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Well, I am a international student, so I only have basic tool to work with. I have used two scissor jack to change oil. And sadly, I don't know any friend who is interested in car like i do.  How much would it cost to get it installed by a garage? It is seems to be a easy job with the right tool. 

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If in any doubt at all. Always quality work and discounts for CS members. PM Ajay with any questions or for a quote::



Whiteline bars through evowrx:



Whiteline 99GF8 22mm adjustable part number BSR20XZ:



Whiteline BSR20XZ installation guide:



If you have the tools and you're keen to give it a go:


Nothing wrong with using a scissor jack, just slower that's all. But as GC8E2DD said, scissor jacks aren't as stable or strong as trolley jacks so best to lift one corner at a time. Rear left, then rear right. As long as it's on flat hard ground and you never put your body under the vehicle until it is sitting securely on axle stands (spare rims/blocks of wood).


When jacking a car to work under it's always best to chock the wheels that are staying on the ground, even with the car in gear and the handbrake on. Chock the wheels with a big rock or lump of wood, something that will stop the ground wheels rolling if anything goes wrong. For example an all wheel drive car with open differentials in gear with the handbrake on and the rear wheels being lifted off the ground for a swaybar swap, if the jack fails or tips over the car can still roll forwards or backwards.


Nothing wrong with using spare wheels as axle stands. As GC8E2DD said, jack the car up and slide the spare rims under the cars back wheels, then lower the car so it's sitting up on the rims. With both rear wheels level there is no tension on the swaybar and ARB links. Plus technically all suspension bushes and suspension links should always be tightened or torqued up with the vehicle suspension sitting at normal ride height. Not only for new part alignment and clearance checking, but for the suspension bushes to function as intended. A lot of suspension bushes these days are solid or made as one piece and do not have rotating parts. When the suspension articulates the rubbery section of the bush twists causing tension, then when the suspension goes back to normal ride height the bush goes back to neutral twist/neutral tension.


Not so critical with ball joint type rotating sway bar links. But picture a rigid type ARB link (anti roll bar link) with fixed solid bushes top and bottom. If torqued up with the suspension at full droop and then the vehicle is lowered to normal ride height. The fixed ARB link bushes will either tear apart and no longer be fixed, or twist and be under constant tension. Effecting both suspension movement (twist tension causing lift) and swaybar tension/behaviour (now favouring downward suspension movement and more resistant to upward suspension movement), plus it also shortens the life of the bushes.





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  • 1 month later...
On 9/12/2016 at 11:42 PM, evowrx said:

Could always nip into subirex automotive he will sort you out cheaply. I can supply the whiteline bars ex auck overnight if you want new.


I would like to get a whiteline 22mm adjustable rear swaybar for my GF8, do u still have it in stock? thanks


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