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Up pipe heat wrap


That Guy
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Being that I'm not expert on thermal efficiency I figured some of you guys may have some ideas. Would I be better off leaving the stock heat shields in place or wrap the F***ed with heat wrap? I kinda want to remove the heat sheildsto inspect for leaks, however, it does appear that they are not a simple bolt on, bolt off item. Im not one to be worried about being a butcher to remove things so that's not an issue, just wondering if it's worthwhile. 

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2 hours ago, evowrx said:

You should replace the restrictive flexi with a solid section while youre at it. Best to wrap it but make sure you use heat wrap thats rated to 1100deg c or so.

 

Worst advice ever. Without the flexi the pipe will be more prone to warping and cracking.

 

Fabric heat wrap only lasts a short time.

 

Leave the stock pipe and heat shields alone.

Edited by loner
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7 minutes ago, loner said:

 

Worst advice ever. Without the flexi the pipe will be more prone to warping and cracking.

 

Fabric heat wrap only lasts a short time.

 

Leave the stock pipe and heat shields alone.

 

Ahhhhhhh I just don't know what to doooooooo? 

But really, F*** it. I'll just leave it alone for the time being. Headers will be sought when an appropriate set pop up at an affordable price. For the mean time I'll just clean up the stock market and throw some gaskets at it, being as that was the only reason I removed it in the first place.

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Not sure what car this is - but the up pipe should have bellows not a flexi - just leave the heat shields on.

 

If you ever go to an aftermarket up-pipe then you would need to wrap it, or do what loner did and source some flexible heatshielding.

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1 hour ago, loner said:

 

Worst advice ever. Without the flexi the pipe will be more prone to warping and cracking.

 

Fabric heat wrap only lasts a short time.

 

Leave the stock pipe and heat shields alone.

 

Oh bullshit stock the t/s dont run a flexi. Never had an issue with any of the s/s twisted setups Ive had. Dwight recommends it on rally cars and hes a damn sight smarter and experienced than you and me. 

 

Again bullshit. Wraps only as good as what its rated too. Buy decent lava rock stuff thats rated to pre turbo temps and its fine. 

 

Nothing wrong with the stock shields but the flexi is restrictive and common to break. No way to fix it without stripping the up pipe. Could put a slip joint in if youre worried like the syms (spelling?) headers?

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Whooooo this heated up pretty quick (excuse the pun). I had a little on line search last night and found a few options for replacement up pipes. At this stage I'll just leave it as is and concentrate on wof requirements I think. Thanks for the advice tho guys, it's bloody good being able to find usefull and relevant information while also showing of your progress. Good fourm!

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Gut the flexi

Heavy coat in thermal ceramic paint

Wrap in the best highest temp wrap you can get

 

No problems for me around 10,000kms now on this setup, it's a road car though so doesn't see too much abuse.

 

Don't feed the troll guys. 

 

(I know a few rally guys who don't run flexi in the headers or uppipe, works fine, dunno what loner is on, probably bath salts)

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36 minutes ago, slystiguy said:

Gut the flexi

Heavy coat in thermal ceramic paint

Wrap in the best highest temp wrap you can get

 

No problems for me around 10,000kms now on this setup, it's a road car though so doesn't see too much abuse.

 

Don't feed the troll guys. 

 

(I know a few rally guys who don't run flexi in the headers or uppipe, works fine, dunno what loner is on, probably bath salts)

Don't worry about what I'm on...  Worry about the guy that said the exhaust runs hotter when the car is driven gently. 

5 hours ago, evowrx said:

 

Pretty sure the exhaust is hotter on cruise/light load...but youre probably right.

Really can't believe someone that gives advice to everyone that will listen... said this utter crap. 

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15 minutes ago, loner said:

Don't worry about what I'm on...  Worry about the guy that said the exhaust runs hotter when the car is driven gently. 

 

Egt is very subject to timing and afr but you would know that. I might be getting confused with diesels where when you run richer they run cooler, do they work like that? Or I might have just completely misread the stuff I was reading on it which is why I said "pretty sure" but  I wasnt too bothered with saying the wrong thing when youre always there to correct everyone with your sometimes superior knowledge. Im not hot on the science I just know if you run too little timing at cruise it heats everything up. You can add timing to reduce afr without needing to change the fuel table. 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, evowrx said:

 

Egt is very subject to timing and afr but you would know that. I might be getting confused with diesels where when you run richer they run cooler, do they work like that? Or I might have just completely misread the stuff I was reading on it which is why I said "pretty sure" but  I wasnt too bothered with saying the wrong thing when youre always there to correct everyone with your sometimes superior knowledge. Im not hot on the science I just know if you run too little timing at cruise it heats everything up. You can add timing to reduce afr without needing to change the fuel table. 

 

A master of BS and misinformation at work right here. When you push a car hard it get's hot. Anyone who does not know that in every atom of their body should not be giving advice on cars period.

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So why can you add fuel to cool the cylinders/increase knock threshold? To a point of course. 

 

You know you could actually add some fact here if youre as smart as you like to sound rather than talking smack.

 

Once youre done here give these guys a call and tell them theyre full of S*** too.

 

https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/airfuel_ratio_tuning_rich_vs_lean

 

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10 hours ago, loner said:

That could just be that you two drive like pussies and your exhaust never gets that hot.

 

Yes, driving your car with a heavy foot will make the engine get hot

 

1 hour ago, evowrx said:

So why can you add fuel to cool the cylinders/increase knock threshold? To a point of course. 

 

You know you could actually add some fact here if youre as smart as you like to sound rather than talking smack.

 

Once youre done here give these guys a call and tell them theyre full of S*** too.

 

https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/airfuel_ratio_tuning_rich_vs_lean

 

 

Yes also

 

Who cares

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On 12/23/2016 at 5:44 PM, That Guy said:

Being that I'm not expert on thermal efficiency I figured some of you guys may have some ideas. Would I be better off leaving the stock heat shields in place or wrap the F***ed with heat wrap? I kinda want to remove the heat sheildsto inspect for leaks, however, it does appear that they are not a simple bolt on, bolt off item. Im not one to be worried about being a butcher to remove things so that's not an issue, just wondering if it's worthwhile. 

 

I would leave them on, as they are designed for the car by subaru they probably kick ass at their job

 

If you do remove them to inspect for cracks, You are almost definately going to snap at least 1 of the old 10mm bolt heads off, this can become extremely annoying when you go to put them back on, because with just 1 bolt not doing its job you will get a rattle noise (I speak from experience lol)

 

Havnt had a factory set of headers / up pipe crack out of all the RS' ive owned

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2 hours ago, evowrx said:

So why can you add fuel to cool the cylinders/increase knock threshold? To a point of course. 

 

You know you could actually add some fact here if youre as smart as you like to sound rather than talking smack.

 

Once youre done here give these guys a call and tell them theyre full of S*** too.

 

https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/airfuel_ratio_tuning_rich_vs_lean

 

 

This is all irrelevant. You said the exhaust manifold, in particular the up pipe, would be hotter when cruising. A patently false statement that you can't back out of no matter what BS you come up with.

19 minutes ago, THUNDA said:

 

Yes, driving your car with a heavy foot will make the engine get hot

 

 

Yes also

 

Who cares

 

Who knows who cares? If you don't care why are you here?

Edited by loner
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31 minutes ago, THUNDA said:

There was no caring mentioned at all in the clubsub terms and agreement registration page :P 

The saying "Who cares" isnt actually a question asking who is caring

 

hmm, pretty sure saying "who cares" can only be a question.... unless you mean to make the statement "nobody cares"... but then you obviously care enough to comment... Anyway I'm pretty sure I don't care, I just like bating evowrx because he can be an insufferable know-it-all. He's not as bad a funkytown was, but getting close.

 

Edited by loner
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43 minutes ago, loner said:

 

This is all irrelevant. You said the exhaust manifold, in particular the up pipe, would be hotter when cruising. A patently false statement that you can't back out of no matter what BS you come up with.

 

Its irrelevant because you havent added one piece of information regarding your theory. But then that is what trolls tend to do. 

 

The engine runs cooler at a richer afr than a lean one and with timing you can swing it either way at cruise or on boost. Thats where my heads at pretty simple really like me.

 

If Im wrong I would prefer to be corrected with some substance than plainly told Im wrong and youre right. Feel free to add something to back up your claim.

 

Im not here to swing my dick like you seem to be, I just like to regurgitate info Ive gleaned from people as Im not a self serving arsehole.

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21 minutes ago, loner said:

 

hmm, pretty sure saying "who cares" can only be a question.... unless you mean to make the statement "nobody cares"... but then you obviously care enough to comment... Anyway I'm pretty sure I don't care, I just like bating evowrx because he can be an insufferable know-it-all. He's not as bad a funkytown was, but getting close.

 

 

Dude... No. You can't talk to people that way. I don't know why you bother saying anything at all... Seems you just like to argue with anyone over anything. You're just so petty, every single frekn time. 

 

From someone who has gutted the flexis in both headers and uppipe I can assure you this cracking nonsense is only relevant to cheap thin walled A/M headers. Stock cast ones are the business for mods. And this isn't just me talking S*** this is what SAS run on their rally car. The factory system is fine, low maintenance in comparison. I'm sure if heat wrap lasted for 100,000 kms they would use it 

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