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  • Posts

    • Hey Guys,

      I have been having a mess around with our Legacy GTB trying to get a few pops and crackles on decel. I'll start with the car.

      We have a 2003 Legacy GTB with an EJ20Y, so it has the bigger TD04 Turbo, car has a gutted cat in the downpipe but the secondary cat is till in tact but i think its on its way out, the whole bottom of the cat is covered in white stuff and you can get a bit of an eggy smell sometimes, so that could be an issue. I have been playing around with the "Base Timing B" maps as this is the map most people adjust to get pops and crackles. I have adjusted between 2000rpm and 5000rpm to -12 degrees but the car still won't pop and crackle, is this because of the secondary cat or another reason? I would have thought even with the secondary cat you would still be able to hear it try to pop. The WRX's and STI's seem to have an Overrun table which our legacy doesn't have, also tables called "base timing b (in gear)"  A few questions come to mind.

      1. When does the car actually use "Base timing b" and "Base timing a", 
      2. Do i need to add fuel at the points where the timing is retarded.
      3. Does the Legacy cut fuel on decel? 
      4. Why wont you pop  

      If anyone has any info at all that would be great, 
      Cheers
    • So after searching online I reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and pumping the brakes, after that the boost was back!!!   Any ideas why the boost went down in the first place? 
    •   Oooooh worth a follow that one!  
    •   I'm looking forward to this! @gotasuby can probably lend his intelligence from his build if needed.
    •   This. And since your car is a EJ208 (no AVCS), as said in another thread, going OEM is probably ok. Another member said that Subaru made improvements to the belts for engines with AVCS, due to the AVCS being harder on the cambelt.   Don't cheap out and get the cheapest thing, go for a middle ground. The Gates kits from Repco are used by tons of mechanics, or Optibelt ones from Partmaster. Just make sure the bearings in the idlers aren't Made in China, preferably Japan. For the belt(/kit) - stick to a brand you know. IIRC, the kit I got for my car was around $500, then another $100 for the water pump. I also got a genuine Subaru water pump gasket ($13 IIRC), cos they're metal (not paper like the one that comes with the water pump). Thermostat you NEED TO GO ORIGINAL SUBARU ($100 IIRC) - using an aftermarket Tridon one or something is a bad idea; they open up at a different temperature, and screw with the factory tune.   Doing a cambelt with most 90s Japanese cars is also preventative maintenance, due to the water pump being run, or fitted behind the cambelt.   PS - go Nissan for using timing chains on their GA and SR engines
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