Not much more to say for recently really.
Have gone to a few events, but no gravel recently, been too busy.
Took it to a paddock day at a friend's place after doing a some work to it, was running the best it ever has after fixing an up pipe leak.
Then to top the day off I had an engine bay fire.....
Turns out the power steering line had burst, after I rotated the turbo, and the up pipe was not too close to the P/S line.
Thankfully it only burnt a few wires, and I was able to drive it back onto the trailer after taking the P/S belt off.
Went to fix that problem and decided to do an engine loom cleanup at the same time.
Since then I've also swapped to top feed injectors and done a bit of other random work, but haven't driven it since the fire.
Some mates and I have now rented out a work shop and bought a hoist, so it's even easier to work on now.
workshop14 by Because Racecar, on Flickr
Any of the old school subie mechanics know the difference between the 4EAT transfer solenoids? My BG9A lists a part number not in stock on partsouq. But I have a part number which looks identical in the google image search listed for facelift BG's/late 90's, which is in stock...
When it comes to hoiking used solenoids in, if the shoe fits, in she goes... But why did subaru have different part numbers? They don't supercede to eachother.
Numbers that I'm aware of:
Early - Bolt in the rear housing style
BC - 31942AA070 - Listed agains a 91 facelift GT
BG-A - 31942AA051 - As googled, "94 BG"
BG-A - 31942AA061 - Listed against a 95 250T
BG-B/C - 31942AA090 - As googled "97 BG"
Later - bolt onto trans style (from what I can see in the diagrams - found this listed for an SF5A im working on)
SF-A - 31942AA103
The main question obviously is, if i order the facelift BG solenoid, will it work in my prefacelift BG? My assumption is yes, but I'm asking to double check if anyone knows if there will be issues with this.
And lastly for those who have no idea WTF I'm yabbering about, if you've ever driven a 90's auto Subaru, and when you turn hard lock on a corner, the transmission binds up, and the car sorta stops moving. If you power though it you often get a chunk-chunk-chunk coming from the gear box (often miss diagnose as binding rear diff), or your inside wheel braking traction and slipping forward, as iff you had a locked diff. This is whats wrong with it, these little slolenoids I've been talking about fail, and the centre diff locks up. If the car binds completely as described, chances are the centre diff clutch packs have eaten grooves into the clutch housing, and replacing the solenoid will no longer fix the issue completely once this has happened (though can still help a lot to replace it). If the trans power light blinks at you every time you start the car up, and there's a slight resistance to turning on full lock (i.e. the car will stop driving itself forward as auto's do), the solenoid is still failed. but the centre diff hasn't wrecked itself yet, and replacing the solenoid should completely fix you're issue. (Of course check your trans error code to confirm it is the transfer solenoid, aka duty solenoid C, before buying parts...
Currently pretty happy where my build it at. Obviously its never 'finished' and I could easily chuck 10k at it but currently have other priorities and right now I cant justify spending (for example) 4k on a rebuild on a 'fine' engine. Im thinking about buying a daily as its modified and for some reason I have to fill up every 300kms
Who knows I might sell this to get a daily then buy a GC8 for a fun weekend warrior. I always wanted a GC8 but for now my build is gonna basically slow down for a while unless something blows up... At least that's the plan.
Ill still be here asking dumb questions and doing the occasional small mod ofc.