Leaderboard

Should grt back to doing this as have been busy. This may interest @Niran 2.1l stroker, id1000 98 fuel, EFR7670 20psi as ran out of map sensor. 272 cams. Hks single scroll headers and 0.84 housing. Makes more power and torque than last setup everywhere and that was a TD05-20g and 2l

Managed to get a really tidy v7 sti hatch. Only mods are equal headers and full exhaust with a fmic. Has Factory Ecu. I'm trying to find a balance between having a fun car but also keeping in mind I have a family now and She will be driving it too. I've read that the factory ecu's are tuned to Japanese fuel blah blah blah. I want to know the car is running the modification healthily as well. I don't see a point in investing 2.2k on a link and then another 1k on a tune if the factory ecu with a remap will suffice. I searched this forums and saw there are a few people who can do it with 1 or 2 people appraising them. I then googled for an official service and found tune technic offering the service from $1200. Before I go ahead I wanted to get opinions. Thanks clubsub.

The factory headers well outflow the limits of a stock turbo. I know of people running above 350wkw e85 builds and the factory headers are fine (twin scroll though!) I'm not sure on the single scroll headers limits, It's something I haven't seen much ..yet. I know they can hit 250wkw +, just not sure how high they go. Personally amazed people with stock cars waste money on headers when they could spend that on a good set of tyres/rims/ shocks and literally go faster lol

good stuff, welcome to clubsub and great choice with the v7 (also , welcome to #teambugeye :D) @Pappu1 is the recommended guy around Auckland for stock ecu remap on a fair price

You can come with me, I would enjoy the company to make the trip feel quicker I might leave AKL Friday afternoon at the same time as @1randomkiwi and will probably go back to AKL Monday morning

1000cc fuel injectors will usually get 300wkw on 45psi base and good fuel pump capacity but that's usually there limit

Highly recommend not using ign cut on factory heads. Try raising the limit. More ign retard and slightly more fuel trim first. Should get you 10-15psi

To get more boost with a link on launch control. Make it retard your timing more and add a little more fuel when active. If you had better valve springs you could have run ign retard /cut mode and I could get you any boost up to 35psi on launch. Its extremely hard on gear though.

Right! So, who's going down that is willing to take my ugly arse to palmy and back? I have Friday and Monday off so good for whenever! Willing to chip in on the petroleum costs. Will be rather awkward if no one can [emoji23] Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

if you are in auckland or can travel to here i can help asd have done lots of this model. the v7 sti is a solid car and the ecu is very well setup without needing to spend much good choice on the car btw

I wouldn't use antilag at all with stock valve springs. Flat foot shifting is fine on gearbox and engine if it's fuel cut and setup correctly.

Honestly I would replace it rather than recondition a motor that has almost certainly run the bottom end. Buy locally so it has a 60 day warranty or something. Dunno why you would be replacing the turbos (you almost certainly have 2 of them?) with the motor. Seems like a lot of additional expense for not much reason. There is very, very little point in modifying the twin-turbos. The gains are extremely minimal for the cost/complication. The hose mods are worth doing and that's about it. The only worthwhile mod is a single-turbo conversion.

If I put a Garrett on a Subaru I would be pretty disappointed if I didn't end up with around 250kw as well. You see lots of Silvias with that kind of power because it's simple to swap the turbos out on them for proper ones. In the Subaru world 99% of people are fart-arsing about with stock location barbie-doll hairdriers which will maybe get you to 240wkw downhill with a tail wind. Long story short they don't mysteriously make more power than Subarus, for the most part a 2 litre 4-cylinder engine with the same compression ratio doesn't care about the arrangement of the cylinders, it's some pretty basic chemistry that results in power and the Datsuns aren't breaking the laws of thermodynamics any time soon.

This car uses stock equal length headers at 800hp... the only headers that they could find that wouldn't crack. http://www.driven.co.nz/news/lifestyle/alister-mcrae-wins-second-straight-leadfoot-title/

As per the thread that was linked, there is just a hard limit on the size of the wheels + housings that will fit in the stock location spot. And none of the combinations that will fit are good for 320wkw. Even just the limit on the size of intake pipe you can fit under the manifold will tell you that. EDIT: A Garrett GT3071 standard front housing hits the side of the gearbox, and that's hardly a 320wkw turbo.

wow, if you upped the fuel pressure would you reckon theres room for e85 and bit more boost pressure to push that thing further? or around there is the limit of id1000s?

Just a valve grind and cams I'm told as we didn't build this one. V3-4 heads so no avcs. Injectors are id1000 and at 75% with a base pressure of 45psi. Yours should spool far earlier as your running avcs and another 0.4l capacity.

@Pappu1 did the tune on my V7 STI running factory computer i recommend him as well, also @PBMS also do a tune for you as well in puke they are just as good and you also get a nice pretty dyno sheet after the tune to show how much power you are making...you could always go to Dtech in tauranga they are good too...

Its actually still a 207. It comes on and boogies around 4k mark ish. Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

@Furze @Dairusire He’s not really round much anymore. The family life took hold of him. He sold his car to Furze, so should be able to get any needed info from him or Dairusire. Edit: Actually it’s running a 257 now so they’ll only have info with that setup Hope you plan on putting up a build thread for it. It’s my long term goal too. Just with a 257 instead for a more juicy bottom end

Well answered

Uhhhhm, think you've got it backwards there bud. Launch Control is used to build boost on the line before you launch, so you don't bog down and out before you get out of the hole. Anti lag doesn't build boost (EDIT: Unless you're talking WRC type sh!t which is mental and certainly does build boost) by any means, it just tries to maintain it best it can. Usually does this by dumping fuel into the cylinder off throttle, which exits the cylinder then when hits the hot manifold, explodes. Creating exhaust pulse and forcing the turbo to spool. Hence why it does heinous things to the manifold and turbo lol. Also[mention=20441]batbaruman[/mention] you're also looking at it the wrong way. You absolutely should be looking at what the cars doing off throttle. That's where a ton of your response can be picked back up because of that lazy as hell potato of a turbo you have. Antilag is probably the biggest help to get it kicking. Keep the turbo on song, and you'll get better response. Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

Grap the dyno plot from @Niran build thread linked below. Look at the power at each 500 rpm and the power the car makes. Even a stock turbo sti can push 145 kW at 3500 rpm while that car is still at 100 kW so you're almost 50% more power down low. Niran's already at 190 kW by 3500 rpm so almost double the power i.e. He wins. Now if you draw an imaginary line from say 2000 or 2500 rpm to the peak power. A) the plot should stay above that to be torquey and good to drive. It should start close and go up as vertically as possible then curve across to peak. B) exactly on that line is like BMW and Audi nice linear smooth power. C) If it stays below that line then rapidly come up like a string hanging under the two points the car will be peaky and S*** to drive daily. that one you posted is all over the place so maybe ok to drive but a bit laggy under 4000 rpm as the turbo spools slowly. if you take 10-15% for the header length and another 7-10% for drive train 4wd loss it's no as bad as it seems. plus boxers are balanced motors and weight of the block is stuff all so there are advantages to be found. oh yeah that's 254 kW on a stock turbo so some thing to think about even though it's a 2.5 sti.

I have VF45 if interested

Yep, in this particular case they do blow them more than manuals. The pre facelift auto’s have VF38’s and the manuals have TD04HLA’s. Blocked banjo filters is one of the big culprits for them failing which need to be checked, but the 38’s are just renowned for crapping the bed even when reasonably well looked after. Look to find a VF44, VF45 (both on facelift GT/GT Spec B’s in auto and manual) or the TD04HLA. All three drop in but think the TD04 needs oil/coolant lines moved as it’s a MHI turbo rather than IHI

not an expert but couple obvious things going down here. this is very much an apples to oranges comparison rwd vs awd.. our awd subies have greater drivetrain loss, the dyno numbers being compared are at the wheels , hence we generally have to do a little more to squeeze more power not really fair to compare psi between different turbos (atleast from my limited understanding, not an engineer!) . different turbos will flow different rates of air (cfm) at same pressure level like boon said already, if you apply same turbo to both 2l engines then you're coming closer to a better comparison not familiar with the nissan community, but you mentioned they tend to get more power with less mods. we in subie community (atleast members of this forum) seem to care about longevity of our cars and do a lot of supporting mods for safety following turbo upgrades. for example one thing we pretty much have to do for street cars chasing higher power is switching to a front mount intercooler whereas many other cars get this from stock.

Keen! Flick me a message 0211650153 Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

I went on the beach rather nervous, tow rope in boot just incase. That quickly faded and i was soon trashing about looking around in the hope of finding a stuck car to tow haha

the man speaks the truth .. its awsume when you get the FFS working correctly especially revmatched version but even the static limiter one works fine as well.. did you mean pops on decel? its pretty easy on the links vs setting on the stock ecu but does sound cool to lots of ppl liking ur new interest in the car BTW

Thicker steel traps the initial heat so may indeed spool the turbo faster through less energy lost as heat, so true under limited conditions. Seen dyno runs that have a few hundred rpm quicker spool with the header heat soaked over a cold set. bigger pipe will allow higher power than the stock ones, so true agian over something well over stock hp. factory headers may be worn from heat cycling and good heavier after market ones could be a nice option. then they look pretty and all shiny which is the most important factor. Edit: Marketing is very loose with claim details as while there is likely evidence to support claims it's for pretty specific cases or tested on older or standard model factory parts. The cake is a lie!

Technically their isn’t, GT Spec B is the correct, but longer way of saying what is essentially the same thing. Same way half the 3rd gen GTB’s are really just GT’s Should get a bit more than 200wkw with the likes of a VF36/37, all comes down to how well it deals with the stupidly high compression ratio. The stock VF45’s can get 190-200wkw with the right supporting mods. Still wish I hadn’t sold the Frankenturbo and had given it a go to see what it could do on a manual.

It’s a BP5 not 3rd gen BTW. So while not always cheap, upgrading to something STI spec or better gives them the go they need

no worries mate, have been on quite a journey with mine and it's by no means over yet. just giving out what i've learnt so far, i did go overkill on somethings and cheaped out in other areas so yeah just sharing that to keep people making the same mistakes lol. lots of good info coming out here which i'm also taking note of for myself - great to see that other people are stating they make higher power on quite easily so for my situation it means i shouldn't have to upgrade my id1050 injectors when i eventually upgrade turbo and switch to flex fuel for e85 tune. tune wise you will get plenty of different answers and it's worth finding the one you think best suits your requirement. i'm also in Auckland. personally i went with clubsub sponsor @PBMS (Possum Bourne Motorsport) who are based in Pukekohe. i liked their approach and Julian handled my 100s of annoying queries (i am naturally an overthinker lol) with a lot of patience. it's a bit far away but they keep it real and try focus more on delivering what you want while keeping it safe for road use (and legal) rather than inflating the dyno numbers one way or the other or bulshitting you about power/economy expectations. i don't exactly nana my car, only gets driven on the weekend so though it hasn't driven far since the tune last year (5000kms), they're all very hard k's and it hasn't blown up yet which is a testament to both Ajay that worked on helping sort everything out/help me with maintenance at ( @Subirex Automotive) and the tuner at PBMS. I believe @THUNDA is dealing with a tuner out west auckland currently so keep an eye on his thread too, which I'm also personally keeping a close eye on.. nothing against my previous tuner but yeah that's 10 mins return drive vs 4hrs return drive+half a tank of petrol for me so naturally curious what someone more local can do

I only have 800cc injectors and running over 300kw rich as, no problem.. that's with bp98. Definitely will go to e85 at some point, but not power limited at the moment... courage limited.

with the e85 side of things you'll def want to get flex fuel sensor so that at any moment there can be different mixtures of e85 / unleaded 98 and it'll auto adjust to run fine. get this sorted before your tune so you only have to do it once. not sure what area you're in but make sure your local tuner is comfortable to perform this tune on carberry rom on your stock ecu otherwise you need to travel bit further to find someone who is comfortable with that, or get the tuners ecu of choice which means factoring in more $$ for that aimed power level you're definitely gonna need bigger injectors. id 1050x for 98 and potentially id1300s for e85 (check with your tuner what he recommends, i'm not sure the limit of id1050 but it seemed to run just fine for me at 240ish wkw on 98 with plenty duty cycle left) yes go top mount for sure. i got an hdi kit which fit in quite well, allowed me to keep the stock fog lights not that i really use them but i just like the way they look lol. more importantly it's of pretty high quality with super efficient core. you will have much less worries about heat soak when you start pushing high boost etc. with front mount also. td05 will acheive your power but you should really consider the more modern turbo ranges. i know theres a bit of a price difference but modern turbochargers with their advanced technology will deliver better power levels more efficiently and more importantly the boost curve will be more sexier (as in you won't have near as much lag during daily driving scenarios) you will need to change to an ethanol compatible fuel pump depending on how much boost you will run, you may need new map sensor but check with your tuner. shouldnt need new maf sensor since will probably run speed density but again best said by the person tuning it. recommend you to check some of the 'optional' mods also when you start pushing higher power levels, such as : oil cooler, oil catch can, split fuel rails shopping list : turbo injectors flex fuel sensor fuel pump ethanol compatible fuel lines to replace the factory rubber stuff. if you already have replaced with fuel lines make sure they are ethanol compatible front mount kit w/piping labour to install above maybe map & maf sensors

Cheers bro sweet read. so good turbo work is whats often neglected

Big fan of this vehicle. It's a tidy gc8 with v7 drive train. Mods being simple for power. Forged 2l motor with standard v7 sti heads. Sti twin scroll with vf36. Factory v7 sti top mount and g4 running the show with flex fuel to e85. Id1000 injectors which are maxed out with a dw200 pump. Custom built SAS intake and exhaust. This is what I call value for money power. 228wkw on 98 and 275wkw on ethanol. I think that's about the most you can get out of a factory top mount and turbo haha.

*Grabs popcorn* I'm still voting for rotational idle.....

To be honest, having been down this path, you have all the mods I'd bother doing at this stage. The difference between the power you'll make as-is and the power you'll make with another $4k spent is about 20kw. When it comes to modding these cars, and I have done the whole shooting match in a very staged manner, is spend the bare minimum you can (basically a decent turbo back exhaust and nothing else) and get a reflash, this will net you maybe 200-210wkw, then if that's not enough save a whole lot up and do a much bigger turbo, 1000cc injectors and a FMIC which will get you the better part of 300wkw. Faffing around in the 230wkw area (aka trying to make power with the factory-sized turbo) costs a whole lot of money and doesn't provide a much bigger grin on your face than 210-odd.