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Or......... Do it right with some fender flares and meaty rubber to match the rims

What @Andy_Mac said is right, but to expand on it. To achieve 300KW+ you need a very high flowing high pressure Fuel pump, this goes up the feed line pressurised and through the rails to the regulator. Regulator then sends fuel back down the return line to tank. The part of the stock hanger which is returning fuel simply cannot flow enough fuel out of it to keep pace with the bypassed amount from regulator. What happens next is rather than the Return line being unpressurised, it starts building pressure, which affects the performance of the regulator which in turn causes flow/pressure issues down the feed line, which then causes the fuel pump to cavitate. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation link for reference if you don't know what it is. So in short, you modify/replace/change the stock hanger so there is no restriction and thus no pressure issues which could solve your entire problem. The reason why going to a surge tank solves this issue is because you also change from a high pressure fuel pump, to a low pressure high flow pump which just dumps into the Surge tank. EDITS: Because I'm dyslexic, I'm fixing my grammar and spelling as I spot it. Have to re-read things like this 10,000 times to make sure I've got it all

At an even higher level, like most things in life, mismanaged expectations and poor communication are the fundamentals to satisfaction in general. In my own experiences, I always clarify the price, or expected price range for a piece of work whether its planned or unplanned, for anything and everything. For a more relatable example, when my car was with Tony for the fuel system fitting and tune, my P/S pump started to leak. As expected, Tony called me, quoted me a price range to pull and diagnose the pump. Didn't promise me anything about the resolution or price of it but in the end diagnosis was a bad o-ring, so to replace it was a couple bucks more as the pump was already apart. Whilst the additional cost was unplanned, the management of the problem through to resolution met my expectations for a professional and experienced outfit. Furthermore, this was all detailed to a high degree on my invoice and reflected the phone and email conversations we'd had. In other examples, when outfits don't meet my expectations, I simply don't use them again. I vote with my wallet and that way I find outfits that do align with and agree to my expectations.

LOL NOPE not staying like that, but gotta have a little fun eh Also, made a purchase this morning as I needed a new BOV. Couldn't help myself but get something a little coloruful haha

Making this topic so people wont run into the exact same issues @Niran and I experienced. Hopefully this will save people a lot of mucking around. The Problem The GV/GR fuel hanger seems to be a significantly restrictive part of the fuel system on late model STI's (MY08 - MY14). Because of this restriction it causes fuel pumps to get hot, cavitate, and eventually fail, causing big issues down the line. The part of the stock hanger which is returning fuel simply cannot flow enough fuel out of it to keep pace with the bypassed amount from regulator. What happens next is rather than the Return line being un-pressurized, it starts building pressure, which affects the performance of the regulator which in turn causes flow/pressure issues down the feed line, which then causes the fuel pump to cavitate. Cavitation link for reference if you don't know what it is. The Solution This issue can be resolved by using a surge tank setup, or by replacing the fuel hanger with an aftermarket alternative. Radium Engineering hangers have been proven to resolve the issue, as well as the Process West surge tank option. The reason why going to a surge tank solves this issue is because you also change from a high pressure fuel pump, to a low pressure high flow pump which just dumps into the Surge tank. Additional Info This may also apply to a select legacy GT's between MY05 and MY07. Someone to confirm, perhaps @Andy_Mac may know, but I believe they use the same hanger. Please note that this discussion is aimed more towards people chasing big power (300kw +) If you are doing simple bolt-on's this may not apply to you so don't worry! Solution A: Aftermarket Fuel Hanger The below is for a Radium Fuel Pump Hanger. (20-0380-00, 20-0382-00, 20-0383-00) It is recommended to purchase the plumbing kit for this too. Solution B: Surge Tank Process West Anti-Surge Fuel System - https://processwest.com.au/surgetank-08-14 Solution C: Hack Job Nobody we're aware of has tried this yet, if someone does can you take pictures and post up step by step instructions and ill add it in here. Contributors: @Dairusire @Andy_Mac

If you read the radium stuff you need to modify the Venturi pump nozzle size or the back pressure creates problems. The venturi pump is used to pull the fuel from the side of the tank where the electric pump isn’t. The Venturi pump is just the return line being forced through a small hole to make a jet in parallel to the fuel pickup from the far side of the tank which creates the suction. While I suspected heat initially the Venturi pump system would make most of the fuel returned to the cradle to be from the far side of the tank and therefore likely cooler than expected. It maybe just just drill the nossle in the factory system bigger. And maybe add a one way flap or valve to allow more flow to the pump.

It sounds like a problem that can be cured in 5 minutes with a hacksaw and a small length of rubber fuel hose.

Ahh I'm an idiot, had my hanger out last night looking for torn hoses. All the covers are still off so I'll pull it again to get some detailed photo’s for comparison. Fairly certain they are the same since pumps and aftermarket hangers are the same for both. The Legacy’s in question will be BL/BP 03-08, not sure if there are any super late ones registered as 09. In semi related news the pump in mine seems ok but the FPCM seems to be intermittently failing to operate which is another issue these cars have due to higher current draws killing the module.

wheels are too wide guards should be approximately the same. looks like a spacer on one side ? bad past repair ?

Open it up, check for loose connections Check for dry soldering points - reflow board (heat gun, soldering iron etc - lots of ways to do it) Check for dodgy capacitors Check screen connection Check screen power source If you comfortable with a multimeter test each component

Lots of rumbling on @ToomTom and @Niran's garage threads, about people's expectations and experiences with performance workshops. I feel like it's a conversation worth having, because clearly we all have somewhat different levels of expectation about what we'll get when we take our car to a specialist workshop. And I have some grumpy rants to have about it as well. Keep it constructive, I guess. My 2c: On the one hand, virtually every modified car is different. There will be slight variations from build to build that introduce unique differences that have to be allowed for when you setup/tune the car. On the other hand, these are "experts" and they usually charge like a wounded bull, so the service should be premium. Because of these variations in cars, things sometimes go wrong, or don't work as well as expected. So my number one rule for a workshop: communicate. Tell the customer what's going on. And for the love of all things Subaru, have your ducks in a row when you talk to them. Don't give them some wishy washy bullshit with 9 different things that you think it might be. You're professionals, damn it, with a workshop full of fancy diagnostic gear (including, probably, a dyno), so come and tell me what the issue is. Rule number two: Unless the customer is like "I'm coming to get the car", don't push it out the workshop door if it's running like a bag of balls. Generally people spend like 6 months or more building the car, a couple more days for you to iron out some little issues is nothing; the customer might be a little bit disappointed but if you follow rule #1 and have a concrete conversation about why you need the car longer they will be understanding. If you hang on to the car but fail at #1 you look incompetent. And so help me, if you have more than one car with the same issue, and you fix it on one car and don't fix it on the other, and then tell the owner of the second car that it's the same issue as another car that you already knew about but you didn't fix it on their car, you look incompetent. I've taken a car to get tuned, it had issues, the tuner nailed it down to a single factor, laid out my options, we made a decision on it, got it sorted. Easy. Seriously, I feel like I have had some sort of blessed experience with tuning. Drive/trailer the car in, leave it for a couple of days, drive it out.

I'm wondering if we should open this up to praise and give constructive criticism over the businesses. Aka what their perceived strengths are and where you feel they didn't live up to the expectations. To be clear, it isn't to be a bashing thread and the businesses themselves are more than welcome to speak and give their own thoughts and feedback if @boon and others would like to go ahead? I will heavily moderate (so it doesn't turn into a flame war) the thread if we move forward and if anyone feels like they'd like an Anonymous post, I'll be happy to accommodate.

If you are doing anything custom... don't expect miracles. Things go wrong. The aftermarket parts you have bolted to your car have NOT undergone the level of testing and R&D that OEM parts have. Your modified car is not going to be as reliable as an OEM car... if you want much higher performance than the OEM car provides, it's going to cost money up front, then more money to work out the initial problems, then more money for maintenance than an OEM car. Unless you know the person actually doing the work, or the person closely supervising them, has done the exact work you are asking, and on the exact same model car... don't just think they know exactly what needs to be done or all the potential pitfalls. If you don't trust that the person or workshop doing the work is capable, then either go in every day and check on the progress, or just don't give them the car in the first place. A company is only as good as the people working in it... a name means nothing. A once great company might have none of the original staff or owners that made the company great... and might actually suck. That should only be a temporary situation, as people will catch on quickly. No matter where you go, no one cares about your car or your budget like you do... why should they? You are responsible for what happens to your car and how much it costs. Get time and cost quotes for everything... if the workshop is unwilling to give a quote, then it's up to you to decide if you trust them to do it in a reasonable amount of time and for a reasonable amount of money... which is often the same thing... labour is always the biggest expense.

1. ALWAYS check that the company is registered, even if they have been around for a while, does not mean they are legitimate. (Been there, done that) You can do this here - https://companies-register.companiesoffice.govt.nz 2. THERE ARE NO FRIENDS IN BUSINESS, you pay them, there is no such thing as 'mates rates' they not only want your money, but NEED it. Been there, done that. 3. NEVER give them an inch of leverage, an inch turns into a mile. If S*** seems to good to be true, IT IS. Check on it regularly, everyday, physically, if possible. Been there, done that. 4. Supply as many parts as you can yourself, never assume they know what you need. Been there, done that. 5. PAPER TRAILS, always save your digital conversations, and if things are bad. Record phone calls. ALWAYS get receipts for work done. Seriously just never be afriad to be a total C unt. That's your money, if they don't want to do what you say, they'll either say no. Or yes, and take that money of yours. It's always about the money.

Here's your photo with numbered hoses and I've numbered them on two Google photos that you can reference

We're stoked to welcome Killer B Motorsport to our growing lineup of products. A whole lot of engineering goes into their products to ensure everything released is the absolute best quality and provides real world improvements. Their sumps, baffles and pickups are super popular in the USA and their headers are proven awesome. Be sure to visit their website www.killerbmotorsport.net and get in touch for any of their parts you might be interested in. We are adding the lineup to the website of course as well for easy browsing. Any questions just send me a DM or email [email protected]

Well, good news is good. The RA is running again after 2 years. Took a while to hunt down and fix the random niggly issues like the fuel leaks and small wiring issues that turned out to be nothing. Its running on full e85 which is awesome. Narrowband sensor doesn't cut the mustard though as expected haha. So wideband will go in tonight, as will the fuel pressure sensor and I'll try sort ethanol content sensor too Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

Just an update: the dash is still fine, no sign of stickiness at all - even after these scorcher sunny days without a windscreen sunshade.

Solved: So I went took the car for a drive to get it hot and when it started making the noise I had a look around. I pressed my finger on the two left side coil packs and one of them was vibrating as it made the noise. Took coil off and found spark plug was loose. When changed plugs I mustn't have tightened it enough as Im always scared of over tightening. Nice easy fix. Sure easier fix than over tightening it. On my ratchet I counted 36 clicks until it goes around 360 degrees so from now on I tighten plugs around 24 clicks therefore around a 2/3 turn.

No - you can't As @mitch8198 pointed out (and this the glaring elephant in the room) the manifold and heads and all of the sensors are completely different, not to mention the loom. To make this work, simply strip down both engines to a short block and bolt your existing heads to the new short block (I'd recommend new HG's and machining of the heads while you're at it) then refit your manifold and you're good to go.

I have been thinking (again lol) about an EZ30/36 swap in an Impreza/wrx body. Done some research and seem like its a case of finding an EZ30 with gearbox, modify wiring to suit the body to the engine, aftermarket ECU(?) and modify radiator location. I assume there would also be other stuff like fuel pumps I may need to upgrade too. Has anyone had experience with a swap like this and is it as easy as it sounds? I like the idea of being able to do a swap by myself with basic tools and not needing a shop to make custom mounts etc.

Been considering this also (with turbo) and doing a load of research for my GF8 before i commit to forging the 2L RA block that is in it. Parents have had an H6 legacy for years and its still going after 350,000kms of abuse. forcefed made 412kw with an EZ30r on 98 at only 20psi with what seemed like a very mild build for the power. (just pistons, rods, valve springs, retainers, injectors, Link G4). So they're definately a capable unit, the supertech parts are expensive, but so is a 400+kw capable EJ engine.... Took the idea a step further today and picked up a blown EZ30r for "research purposes". Would be doing the manifolds, wiring, engine build etc myself so want to know exactly what im getting into.

I was thinking a little GC Impreza with a plain old EZ30 w/factory ECU would be a fun daily driver. And pretty good on gas. It doesn't need to be a rocketship drag queen.

Yeah MCM's was in a legacy with a turbos and and stuff. That build was pretty cool.

Clint's car was super cool. You could probably just get away with an old GTB gearbox.

I was not thinking about my car. I was thinking about a gc gf chassie impreza and just having an NA H6 in there. Nothing too special. Im not sure if the factory gearboxes from the 1.6-1.8na gearboxes will handle the torque of an H6 unless I could find a wrx or sti with no engine. @Joker cheers ill take a look tonight.

B.I.N.G.O. No heaters/fans turned on required on Subarus

1) Jack up font of car 2) disconnect top rad hose from rad and fill block from here slowly 3) reconnect hose and fill through top tank slowly while squeezing top and bottom rad hoses 4) run engine with cap off filling when needed 5) hold car at around 2-2.5k rpm full top tank all the way up and put cap on 6) keep running engine and top up over flow as bubbles will come out of here now that cap is on Keep an eye on levels over next week or so. Has worked for me hundreds of times and no funnel is needed ;D