RaKid

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27 minutes ago, loner said:

 

Just because I think a k-brace is useless, doesn't need I know of a better bolt on solution. I have used them in the past, and now don't bother,

and it's makes no difference to how fast I can drive or how my car handles. 

 

 

 

Swaybars are a waste of time... and I don't even use springs or shocks in my car... just chuck them out and replace them with big blocks

of wood. I'm even thinking about getting rid of my tyres... just don't see the point.

 

 

Have a look at a picture of a cusco cage and them ask yourself why they are no good.

 

 

Yes, I have the fastest Subaru in the world and I am the best driver in the world. THE WORLD.

 

 

I am already rich from my knowledge of cars. I designed the McLaren P1.

 

I already said that.

 

 

Wow, don't you just sound intelligent tonight.

hahahahahaahaxD

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12 hours ago, loner said:

k-brace is a joke... they are made out of tubular aluminium and weigh nothing... they bolt to a steel subframe and chassis which are 100 times more substantial. May as well brace your chassis with race tape.

 

 

 

1 hour ago, loner said:

 

Just because I think a k-brace is useless, doesn't need I know of a better bolt on solution. I have used them in the past, and now don't bother,

and it's makes no difference to how fast I can drive or how my car handles. 

 



See the difference? This bottom post on its on would've saved a page of sarcastic S***. Why bother?

Edited by Nachoooo
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18 minutes ago, Nachoooo said:

See the difference? This bottom post on its on would've saved a page of sarcastic S***. Why bother?

 

It's what I live for.

Edited by loner

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7 hours ago, Nachoooo said:

 

 



See the difference? This bottom post on its on would've saved a page of sarcastic S***. Why bother?

I would say it was a good debate of differing points of view that ended with both parties happy.

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Well that was a lot of content to read - wasn't expecting that but I appreciate all the input.

 

I drove around the Hunua ranges yesterday with my girlfriend. It was an epic road trip.

 

I feel like I can hit full boost half way through an apex will full confidence I'll drive out of any under/over steer. My main concern is really the body roll and as of yesterday, steering responsiveness. I'm interested in mods that can increase steering responsiveness, keep the car more level through a corner, and increase my tyre contact patch.

 

I measured the rear sway bar yesterday, 20mm. I don't know if it's factory but it seems like a healthy bar to me. Would I really notice much difference if I went up a millimeter or two?

 

 

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15 minutes ago, RaKid said:

I measured the rear sway bar yesterday, 20mm. I don't know if it's factory but it seems like a healthy bar to me. Would I really notice much difference if I went up a millimeter or two?

Depends if the sway bar is hollow or solid too.

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1 hour ago, RaKid said:

Well that was a lot of content to read - wasn't expecting that but I appreciate all the input.

 

I drove around the Hunua ranges yesterday with my girlfriend. It was an epic road trip.

 

I feel like I can hit full boost half way through an apex will full confidence I'll drive out of any under/over steer. My main concern is really the body roll and as of yesterday, steering responsiveness. I'm interested in mods that can increase steering responsiveness, keep the car more level through a corner, and increase my tyre contact patch.

 

I measured the rear sway bar yesterday, 20mm. I don't know if it's factory but it seems like a healthy bar to me. Would I really notice much difference if I went up a millimeter or two?

 

 

 

You will notice a difference with a 22m whiteline bar. How do you drive out of understeer BTW?

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I use under/over because I have no idea what is what. It's like an interchangeable term for me which I know is incorrect.

 

So an extra 2mm will make a difference? I suppose it's a 10% size increase?

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41 minutes ago, RaKid said:

I use under/over because I have no idea what is what. It's like an interchangeable term for me which I know is incorrect.

 

 

 

Under - nose plows forward in a straight line

Over - Ass kicks out

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2 hours ago, RaKid said:

So an extra 2mm will make a difference? I suppose it's a 10% size increase?

 

Its not so much the size more the torsional strength. Hard to explain but it takes more force to twist it. On the adjustables each tighter setting changes how much force it takes to twist it.

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On 11/3/2016 at 5:27 PM, Passtheacid said:

 

Under - nose plows forward in a straight line

Over - Ass kicks out

 

So in an all wheel drive it's possible to drive out of over steer but not under steer? Just making sure I'm thinking about this correctly.

 

On 11/3/2016 at 6:52 PM, evowrx said:

 

Its not so much the size more the torsional strength. Hard to explain but it takes more force to twist it. On the adjustables each tighter setting changes how much force it takes to twist it.

 

Ah I see, so a smaller bar by diameter may have a higher torsion strength than say a thicker bar but then thinner bar in this scenario would alleviate the 'sway' better?

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No?

A thicker bar will always reduce roll/sway over a thinner one, unless the thicker bar is infact a hollow one, as a few of the OEM Subaru ones are.

Think he brought up torsional strength as opposed to just going on mm because there are an endless amount of other factors that come into the final strength seen/applied to the endlinks.

The amount of bends and length of the right angled section of the bar plays just as much into the final strength as the bars diameter.

 

As for adjustable bars, its the same concept as using a breaker bar to undo a bolt. The further the point where the force is applied is from the centre the less force(torque) is required. So for swaybars moving to the closer holes makes the bar act like a thicker(stiffer) bar and moving to the outer holes does the opposite.

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I think op is saying if the smaller bar has higher torsional strength it will be better. If so yes it will but generally bigger is better.

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2 minutes ago, RaKid said:

On another note - what would a d-tech tune cost me?

 

Believe it was 1100+gst for normal tune and 1250+gst for flex fuel e85 tune.

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On 10/19/2016 at 4:38 PM, evowrx said:

Fuel pump, g4+ plugin/iat/boost solenoid, dtech tune. Drive it and be a happy lad. For the ultimate enjoyment add tyres, brake pads and rear swaybar along with a birthday fluid service. Timing also if its due.

 

You mentioned boost solenoid and I've seen it come up a few times. Does a boost solenoid need to be wired to a EBC or aftermarket ECU to work or is it a stand alone device?

 

I also read your article 'How to get power out of your WRX/STI' and one of the items on stage 1 is to invest in a EBC. Am I right in thinking an EBC includes a boost solenoid and it bypasses the factory boost solenoid and the driver sets and controls the boost? 

 

Alternatively you've mentioned the g4/iat/boost solenoid - do these all go hand in hand?

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Boost solenoid requires either an ebc or link have an onboard controller. The latter is cheaper and works better imo. 

 

You need an iat/intake air temp and map sensor to run a link unless you keep the maf. 

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On 11/24/2016 at 6:40 AM, evowrx said:

Boost solenoid requires either an ebc or link have an onboard controller. The latter is cheaper and works better imo. 

 

You need an iat/intake air temp and map sensor to run a link unless you keep the maf. 

 

Would the link onboard controller require a link ecu too?

 

Once I've done stage 1 and 2 of your guide I'll look into an ECU. Am I right in thinking a link is about $2k and a tune $1k?

 

Stage 1 of guide:

Silicone intake pipe - done

Turbo back exhaust - done

Split fuel rail - Scheduled

Fuel pump - shopping around

Up pipe - found two extractor and up pipe kits on trademe (redline or xforce - the xforce ones look far superior)

EBC - looking at second hand ones on trademe (and brand recommendations? I found a Greddy one for $250)

 

Stage 2 of guide:

Tuneable ECU - looking into costs

Yellow injectors - done

Turbo (vf23) - done

FMIC - shopping around - redline to a kit for $395 but have no idea if this is any good

Twisted turbo - not considered yet

Aftermarket fuel reg - have been doing heaps of reading on this and want to run stock reg with split fuel rail

Tuned headers - could do this with the up pipe replacement

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The link ecu controls the boost control solenoid sorry to put you crook.

 

Yep 3k is about right more or less depending if you buy new or used.

 

With the up pipe you want one with the same internal size as the stock one.

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2 hours ago, evowrx said:

The link ecu controls the boost control solenoid sorry to put you crook.

 

Yep 3k is about right more or less depending if you buy new or used.

 

With the up pipe you want one with the same internal size as the stock one.

 

No worries! Just making sure I completely understand.

 

So going back to what you said on page 1; fuel pump, link ecu, tune, will be about 3k all up but I'm guessing I'll have the most reliable fun doing it this way as opposed to a zillion boltons and no tune?

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15 minutes ago, RaKid said:

 

No worries! Just making sure I completely understand.

 

So going back to what you said on page 1; fuel pump, link ecu, tune, will be about 3k all up but I'm guessing I'll have the most reliable fun doing it this way as opposed to a zillion boltons and no tune?

 

The pbms deal theyre doing is probably the cheapest deal you will get on a tune/link tbh but I have no idea whos tuning there now. But yes you have the right idea.

 

A secondhand g4 is circa 1.3k, fuel pump 200, iat 100, solenoid 100, tune 1200. 

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I suppose this thread is still applicable now but may potentially start another one that specifically relates to my v6 build.

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