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Cobb 4 bar map sensor on its way. 

Plus some other bits

1200cc injectors

colder plugs

Viton stem seals 

 

still waiting on studs

 

rods and crank prices still pending as well. 

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On 17/08/2019 at 6:56 PM, Gripless said:

Rods shipped less GST customs charges 

 

Argo

EJ25

NZD $1,635

I beam

131.7mm

ARP 2000 bolts

 

EJ20 green list 

NZD $1,160

I beam 

130.5mm ?

ARP 2000 bolts + $32 ?

 

Both upgrade to ARP 625+ bolts + $73

 

Wiseco

NZD $1,385

I beam hybrid

619 grams per rod

130.5mm

ARP 2000 bolts included 

 

 

 

On 16/08/2019 at 1:58 PM, Gripless said:

Wiseco also do a set of boostline rods which are overkill 2000+ hp rated

 

https://blog.wiseco.com/wisecos-new-2000hp-capable-boostline-connecting-rods

More

https://blog.boostlineproducts.com/the-engineering-and-science-behind-boostline-connecting-rods

 

USD$780 + shipping.

These are a stocked item for EJ series so easy to order. 

 

 

Video: 900hp EJ build

 

 

 

On 16/08/2019 at 1:44 PM, Gripless said:

below are NZD prices at today’s exchange rate and not putting which suppliers.

 

ARP

11mm           ~$390

625+ 11mm ~$1009

 

RCM

14-12 s99 Super ~$860

14/12 s99            ~$662

 

On 15/08/2019 at 9:25 PM, Gripless said:

Well James Marshall Motorsport is a distributor in NZ 

 

Billet bracket and old tensioner setup with cosworth belt kit too. 

https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/745-rcm-high-grip-bracket-cosworth-timing-belt

 

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Posted (edited)

Ok haven’t spent much time around the car and build lately but repost from the 500kw build. 

 Kind of want it done mid October or I’ll run into other things I need to get sorted. 

 

 

Wiseco boostline rods are top of list, as well triangles are structurally awesome (without the O)

Plus rated to 2000hp so no chance they will bend or break. 

 

RCM 12/14mm studs means no head modification and just tapping the block out. Since that is the only soft metal there is no reason to go 14mm as s99 steel should not stretch unless the engine s***s itself. 

I was going ARP but the prices are way too high for the 11mm let alone anything bigger. 

 

More I’ve seen from overseas that pinning and line honing the crank journals is a must. 

 

EFR7163 is here and needs to be ceramic coated then heat wrapped in alloy ceramic alloy sandwich heat shield. 

Has the dual port turbosmart wastegate actuator all fitted. 

GFB makes a vent to atmosphere valve for the EFR now so can keep the pssh noises. 

 

Thinking to that I will keep the EFR boost solenoid. 

 

Exhaust needs a bit or work still to make it straight through not quad tipped. Even though it is titanium smaller AdrenalinR one naught sound better. 

 

Luckly I don’t have to drive to work as that pitch stop still sounds like s*** vibrating the firewall. 

 

Intercooler is still a big unknown. Really want to go water cooler and no bonnet scoop 😱🤬 yes yes, special place in hell awaits I know. 

Edited by Gripless
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Process west intercooler kit going a begging if you decide on staying air intercooled ;)

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Already have a new top mount one just sitting here. 

 

Id anyone is interested I’m not sure I need it. 

Edited by Gripless
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Well labour day sales in the 🇺🇸 so ordered some wiseco boostline rods. 

 

Waiting for the customs bill now. 

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Well that went downhill fast. 

On back order 🤬 and no ETA so guess plan to assemble sometime next month is out. 

 

Back to thinking about pinning the mains and reboring the mains. 

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So wow the Wiseco Boostline rods look amazing, very happy with them. 607.0-607.5 grams 

 

I should get some photos up with all the other parts at some stage. 

If anyone is good with video work I thought about getting all the sweet parts together to video and review.
 

Pretty much going factory crank now with info from the 500kw topic. 

sounds like I need to go beehive springs due to the higher rpm limit I want so will sell off the titanium retainers I already have. 

 

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Told ya the factory crank is fine :P

 

ps get photos up 😛

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Mine isn’t nitrided since it came from a 2009. 
Plus has tiny hairline scratches. Still within spec but nicer to have the 2012 or whatever nitrided version. 

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Mine isn’t nitrided since it came from a 2009. 
Plus has tiny hairline scratches. Still within spec but nicer to have the 2012 or whatever nitrided version. 


You can always get a crank nitrated bud ;) seriously. Costs about $150-180 my center thrust crank is nitrated.


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Posted (edited)

So factory crank is good for 800hp or more :) 

Being that is the weakest part of the build it should hold enough power to make the turbo seem tiny 

 

Heads are booked for
CNC Big porting 

+1mm valves for both intake and exhaust 

bronze valve guide

fancy valve seat profile


seems I have to pin mains to use ARP car bolts since they torque higher and then line bore the main. 

Edited by Gripless
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Who's doing your cnc porting, kelfords? I hear Hartley now cnc port ej20 heads too.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

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39 minutes ago, Jono24 said:

Who's doing your cnc porting, kelfords? I hear Hartley now cnc port ej20 heads too.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

Horsepower heads which was part of kelfords. 

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Posted (edited)
On 6/10/2019 at 9:10 PM, Gripless said:

So wow the Wiseco Boostline rods look amazing, very happy with them. 607.0-607.5 grams 

 

I should get some photos up with all the other parts at some stage. 

If anyone is good with video work I thought about getting all the sweet parts together to video and review.
 

Pretty much going factory crank now with info from the 500kw topic. 

sounds like I need to go beehive springs due to the higher rpm limit I want so will sell off the titanium retainers I already have. 

 

I bought kelfords beehive springs, larger tappets, their valves and cams. Put these in my car and it didn't make a huge difference to power levels around extra 10wkw. I did have reprofiled cams before though through Franklin so didn't expect too much. 

 

Getting the larger tappets In which hold the springs in on the valves is a bloody hard job, they are around 50% bigger than th OEM part.  I've built my own heads a number of times now and these are way harder to assemble but are worth it as they are far better at holding the valve, spring etc in place, reccomend them. 

 

I line bored my crank too and has extra dowels In there to help hold it together.

Edited by Username
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@Username where did you get the tappets from?


@Dairusire that was an option until the below. Twice the price and brand new crank with zero wear. 

 

OEM EJ20 nitrated crank shipped with customs is NZD$520 same as C-spec


https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=12200AA390

$403 shipped to NZ


https://www.customs.govt.nz/personal/duty-and-gst/whats-my-duty-estimator/

give $117

 

FYI...

 


2.5L nitrated and salt bathed 

https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=12200AA430

Edited by Gripless
f***ing new phone without custom dictionary can’t swear or name car parts

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18 hours ago, Gripless said:


 

 

@Username where did you get the tappets from?


@Dairusire that was an option until the below. Twice the price and brand new crank with zero wear. 

 

OEM EJ20 nitrated crank shipped with customs is NZD$520 same as C-spec


https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=12200AA390

$403 shipped to NZ


https://www.customs.govt.nz/personal/duty-and-gst/whats-my-duty-estimator/

give $117

 

FYI...

 


2.5L nitrated and salt bathed 

https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=12200AA430

I bought from kelford, they are described as 6 degree radius beadlocks, there were 11 bucks each not inc gst. Will be more now as all the other things I bought were, this was a year ago. They are far bigger than OEM.

 

 

I bought the same crank for mine too mo brainer , cheap really considering it's OEM. 

 

 

Wish u could just insert pics in these posts the link to url is a pain in the ass. 

Edited by Username

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Do you mean the little halve circle keeper clips that hold the retainer to the valve?

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