GorGasmSpecB

I saw little/no difference in consumption between Gull/Mobil. It is very hard to compare without defining a repeatable drive scenario. most of the time the variation is due to different driving conditions.

It's fine.

It'll be a very close thing, i suspect it will rub.

Yep, fair call. 2.5 STI should be able to achieve at least 10l/100 on the open road / trips.

I used SP500 on my Legacy 3.0R with standard rotors and it was doing at least 5+ laps of Taupo without issue. Boostin might be able to chime in, he was able to get better lap times than me out of the car, on what I assume are the same pads.

What is going on here? From what I can gather you are willing to spend a lot of money, to try and save money? How does that even work? Buying a new car to save money is a complete fallacy, used by many a man to justify a new vehicle to his better half. Be realistic, if you are buying a new car, it's not to save money.

Finally fixed my boost control problem which has been annoying me for a year or so by process of elimination. It would boost randomly between 9 and 17 PSI. Blocked the BOV off, replaced a few vac lines and managed to get stable boost and max out at 24PSI. Put the BOV back in and tightened the crap out of it and now I get 16/20PSI, Turns out the BOV was leaking the whole time, possibly due to shitty vac lines as well. Probably end up running the bearings now that it is back to full performance.

yeah, no CEL running it in either vented or plumb back. It might have thrown a CEL leaking like it was.

It's an HKS replica plumbed back in. I think if I had run it to atmo I would have found the problem earlier as it would run like balls. I tightened it up yesterday/today and replaced the vac lines and it seems to be happy enough now. Runs much stronger.

Never had an issue with my Auto BP5 and knocking. It did prefer 98 fuel but no issues whatsoever. Sold my 3.0R because it was too slow - other than that it was an excellent car. 2.0T has more power and torque. 3.0 is smoother.

Was about to say I have a similar issue with my BOV at the moment, just sounds like a duck caller over 17psi. Took out the BOV and no more ducks, just tssssssssuututututuuuu

10,000km intervals on full synthetic here. Something in the 5w-40, 10W-30 range. Personally I like the Penrite range. If I was using a cheaper semi synth then I would go closer to 5000km but decent fully synthetic oil can last the distance. Legacy TT @ 215kms and still going strong.

You may run into the strut.

Hehe my E55 headers were the same. Fouled on the steering column as they were designed for LHD. The guy fitting them bashed the down pipe in like yours. Seemed to be all good .

OEM Rotors and Znoelli SP500 pads have done very well on the street for me. If you want to look all fancy: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/brakes/auction-1287523465.htm

I took all the cats (4) out of my E55 and no one was the wiser. 04, imported in 2015. The Exxon Valdez was better for the environment than my E55.

Car : 2002 Legacy Blitzen TT Tuned : Tuned, downpipes, FMIC, 18 PSI. 200awkw. Fuel : Mobil 98 or Gull F10. Fuel economy : AVG: 11l/100kmm, Open road: 9l/100km, City: 12l/100km. Car : 2006 BMW M5 Tuned : Stock, 373kw Fuel : Mobil 98 Fuel economy : AVG: 20//100km, best: 13.5l/100km, worst 26l/100km. AVG 300-350km per tank, worst 225km. Car : 2007 BMW 130i Tuned : Stock, 195kw Fuel : Any 95+ Fuel economy : AVG: 10l/100km Legacy and 130i are pretty good on gas. M5 is horrendous in town.

13.6 sounds like a very good time for a TT. I wouldn't expect much better than that.

"Mandatory" as in BUY MORE OF OUR STUFF!i!

That car might be worth $15k to the right buyer. It also isn't tuned by STI. It's ticked up by the first customer/dealership with STI parts. This is a great deal, prova parts in my experience are top notch: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1223244590.htm

Why bother with 3.5k changes? You're throwing good oil away. Buy some decent oil and change every 10-15k or 12-18 months and top up as needed. I would recommend Penrite 5w30 or 10w40. There may be nothing wrong with your car or oil. As a totally different comparison, I burn 1L per 1k and that is considered "normal" for my engine.

Custom front mount would be the most effective. A quick google brings up the Process West from MRT and AVO kits from Australia which seem like OK value.

Check the AVCS solenoids for broken down filters. Bits of the filters get jammed in the solenoid and cause rough running. Mine had a piece of filter stuck in the solenoid. Basically like this: https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiojqrA-d7RAhWKvLwKHSPuDK0QFggYMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fforum.liberty.asn.au%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ff%3D10%26t%3D30105&usg=AFQjCNGHoavhXsmc4JsmW5UuZk_kGf8yPw&sig2=0N5f4oneABHV8UgmiPD9hQ

I'd be interested in your feedback on the Dragon Sports. I will be looking at them when my 130i needs new shoes. I'm not sure if I mentioned it already but the RE003 is branded Firestone Indy 500 in the US and is currently rating very well.

A shame, from my experience he was a great guy. Although I understand there is more to life than tuning random Subaru's from the internet