boon

Are you wondering if it's actually an STI rather than a 20K? Only the STI got the 207. Pic of the engine bay? EJ207 of that era will have intake AVCS (I think only some of the EJ205s got this, but could be wrong), red manifold, empty TGV shells on the intake runners, pink 565 top feed injectors, VF30 turbo, larger STI intercooler. There are probably some other differences that I don't know about.

Oh yeah there's nothing to those older ones. Modern 2.5 would tow it just fine.

Per the above, I believe the factory COP setup is sufficient even for a lot more power than that, I've never really heard of people going to aftermarket coils for these.

That seems like stuuuupid money for the 2005 if I'm honest, unless it's a top-spec NZ model and immaculate. How big is a small boat? We used to tow a 14.5ft alloy boat around with a 3.0 and it went really really well, but if you go too much bigger the gearbox starts to suffer a bit. Mind you I know a bloke that towed a much heavier 5.5m boat all over the country with his and it didn't seem to mind too much. EDIT: Also worth investigating some of the trim level differences... for example quite a lot of the NZ 3.0's got a ?plate? rear differential which will make a big difference for skifield roads and pulling a boat up a s****y boat ramp.

Doesn't do anything unless you bottom out the strut. It just stops the strut bottoming out so hard; in theory your bump stops should be stopping the travel of the arms before the strut reaches the end of its travel. It's tapered to provide a progressive stop when you bottom out. It's really, really hard to bottom out an unladen stock-height BP/BL, especially if it's on Bilsteins. I don't think I've ever managed it in our BPE, but then I don't drive it terribly hard.

Weird, my BPE chews out the inside corners like good Subarus do. First place to look would be the camber (obviously) followed by the toe. Usually you see too much toe-in causing scrubbing of the inside edge, maybe you've got toe-out?

wtf is a Gen4?

There are two factors: 1, inflation. A complete pile of s*** costs more $ now than it did 5 years ago because the $ is worth less, not because the car is worth more. 2, the fact that tidy original WRXs are genuinely increasing in value makes stupid people think that their dinged-up, badly resprayed, poorly modded s***ter is also increasing in value. And then other stupid people think so too, and buy said overpriced turd, thus making beat up s***ters increase in value when they don't deserve to.

One thing I love about swapping out all those funny little interior lights for LEDs... you could leave them on for a week and your battery probably wouldn't notice.

The little bottom out damper thing that sits on the shock's shaft? Meh, take it or leave it.

Get a VF30 or a VF34 if you can find one and call it done. The TD05's and stuff that the American's have a massive boner for are dinosaur turbos and a waste of time, even if you pay stupid money for one with billet wheels and sundry other magic beans sprinkled over it. EDIT: There are virtually nil stock-location upgrades that don't start with VF that are worth doing.

Holy balls, $313 for a MAC valve with a sticker on it, I think I paid like $60 for mine?

Honestly the third gen interior feels more solid. The 4th Gen (can we start calling them by their chassis designation? I assume we're talking BP/BL and BH/BE?) is way more plasticy, and has issues like the dashes cracking like a crazy thing, especially if imported from somewhere that got properly cold like the northern end of Japan. Setting that aside, the BP/BL is a way, way better car. Especially if you get a somewhat "specced" one with the leather or part leather interior... I'm assuming they all come with Bilsteins and the simply enormous front brakes? The 5EAT kinda sucks in stock form, but if you get the firmware update from Subaru and drive it in "Sport" then it's a bit better.

I've been to some fairly high end workshops and noticed they have tags on the steering wheels saying stuff like DO NOT CRANK NO OIL. Never hurts to have a little reminder. In fact I'm pretty sure I've seen photos from Prodrive of something similar.

Please please put like a hanger tag on the steering wheel that says "put a proper crown nut on the control arm" With long running projects it's so easy to forget all the awesome little things like this that we do, and then you completely forget about it until 3 years later the ball joint pops out when you're going hunnits.

Something bizarre going on here. The pump is at the bottom of the tank, not like it needs bleeding or anything. Maybe just run it for a while.

Because I am chronic for raining on parades, I think that you would end up spending more on the transmission than the entire rest of the car cost. For the same money you could just swap in a boring old manual box and make the car way way faster instead. So unless you're going for maximum novelty value, or you don't really care about money, it's probably dead in the water before you even start.

That's 100% down to whoever did the paperwork when they registered it. You get all that crap basically from people copy/pasting from the import paperwork - no requirement for it whatsoever.

This feels like spam. There is quite a lot of astroturfing on the internet relating to 4wheelonline. Are you a spammer?

There is a N/A "WRX", kinda vomit but yeah....

I probably wouldn't go cane it like that but honestly I can't see it hurting the car significantly until you get yourself a new thermostat. Just be glad your problem is your car being too cool, not too hot EDIT: You can probably get a little more heat into it by running the aircon hard, if you don't mind freezing...

No wonder it didn't work, they're very picky about the O2 sensor. If they had to do a hacky bodge then it's because it wasn't the right sensor for the car. Honestly I'd be buying a correct sensor for it, then get a plug with 20cm of wiring still attached from a wrecker and reinstating the factory setup. Won't be hard to match up that way either.

I believe so. I don't know how this is a terribly big issue... the length thing is solved in about 6 minutes with a welder, and maybe a short length of stainless steel pipe.

Go gettem'. CSI:ClubSub strikes again?

Just go back to court and say I have this ruling and they haven't paid me. Make it the bailiff's problem. Any additional costs just get added to the amount due; the courts take a very dim view of people just dodging their rulings. If they're on the benefit you can even get an "attachment" where you get paid directly before they even receive the money; when they're a deadbeat that really stings, especially if you can get an aggressive payment schedule going on. Leads to fun stuff where they rip someone off so they can pay their court-ordered dues (happened on here once) and nek minnit they're going to jail, it's a fun process dealing to s***bags.