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What Turbo Kit for 02 STi Spec C


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 funkytown said:

and they insurance company would dispute that when you could STM to testify the flashed rom was Detting and doing terminal damage to a motor so they put it back to a stock rom which is safe...

paa leaze..??

Dude, I know your trying to help but why do i want to make it more complacated than it allready is. STM dont need to have anything to do with it. If the moters fu**ed or it blows up before Tuesday ill be getting a rebuild. I dont care who pays for it, mech warranty or dealer, simple. I really dont want to have to take it through the courts, its a long process that I coud do without.

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 o0steveo0o']

[quote name='funkytown said:

and they insurance company would dispute that when you could STM to testify the flashed rom was Detting and doing terminal damage to a motor so they put it back to a stock rom which is safe...

paa leaze..??

/quote]

Dude, I know your trying to help but why do i want to make it more complacated than it allready is. STM dont need to have anything to do with it. If the moters fu**ed or it blows up before Tuesday ill be getting a rebuild. I dont care who pays for it, mech warranty or dealer, simple. I really dont want to have to take it through the courts, its a long process that I coud do without.

Yeah amkes sense, i can understand the mech warrenty not covering anything until it causes mech fault... what did the dealer say when u showed STM report? Shouldn't this be covered by Consumer guarantees act?

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 o0steveo0o']

[quote name='funkytown said:

and they insurance company would dispute that when you could STM to testify the flashed rom was Detting and doing terminal damage to a motor so they put it back to a stock rom which is safe...

paa leaze..??

/quote]

Dude, I know your trying to help but why do i want to make it more complacated than it allready is. STM dont need to have anything to do with it. If the moters fu**ed or it blows up before Tuesday ill be getting a rebuild. I dont care who pays for it, mech warranty or dealer, simple. I really dont want to have to take it through the courts, its a long process that I coud do without.

You see this is where the problem will arise as to who pays for it all parties will do what they can to get out of it thus why i mentioned when or if it goes to court then idiots like myself get called in, get the idea?

my last sitting in the Henderson courts was 5hrs not fun nor do i get paid for it, now you see how they find out all the tricks to cars and how its done and the fact you've been on here telling all about the knocking and 23psi wasn't the best idea to do its small world and companies and courts have a rough idea how to use Google, many have been caught out from Facebook to twitter and forums.

Anyway i think this is now going no where fast

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With the EQC going up 25% insurance claims and anything associated with it will be getting hammered any chance someone can pass the buck they will and when it comes to high performance cars its fair play they know why you own it and what you do with it, there is advantages of getting old they tend to leave you alone.

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 vorigan said:

With the EQC going up 25% insurance claims and anything associated with it will be getting hammered any chance someone can pass the buck they will and when it comes to high performance cars its fair play they know why you own it and what you do with it, there is advantages of getting old they tend to leave you alone.

Well I’m 29 and successfully been through the court process a few times before. Just hoping it doesn’t need to come to that. Just called Ray Hartley Motors/MacLennan Automotive Performance Centre who are looking at it on Tuesday and asked if they can check for pitting and do a compression test while doing the report for Autosure. Just want to say, I haven’t had any problems with all parties involved, they have all been more than helpful. Just got to move through the paces.

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so its definatly detonating ONLY at high RPM ? from the boost curve it hits 23 psi and tapers like subys do to around 18psi - to get det at 18psi the timing must be pretty advanced - i know stock tunes start to lay off the timing at high rpm - that would indicate to me its a reflashed ecu - they play it safe on stock tune -

could be anything really - could be bad tune - could be tuned for different fuel as to what your running it on - could be that the maf is on its way out giving bad signals -spark plugs could be too hot - could be multiple things - is stupid if you run it on a dyno to see if its knocking LOL -

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 o0steveo0o said:

I ran it on the dyno for a base line. Thats when I found out about the det.

these guys dont give you a break do they

lol dw man.thats cars for you,

atleast your getting it sorted.

did you buy the car from a dealer ship?

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iseee.it shouldnt be a issue then.my mates got a honda from a dealership.

trans,diff,radiator and cambelt all fucked out.he only had to pay 150 toward the cost.

you should be fine.that is if you got the macanical warrenty with your ride

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Ok. After all that, all it needed was a set of new plugs and fuel filter :P. Good to know tho that theres no damage to the pistons and compression is 140 all round. Found out it has been reflashed, just trying now to find out who done it for future mods. All up including new plugs, filter and dyno ive spent $660. I figure that since the problem existed when I brought the car (due to very worn plugs) the dealer should fix me up, no harm in trying I guess. Mechanical warranty wise ill be getting a full refund. Have to wait till tomorrow tho to confirm. Its running a crap load better now so and the mechanics/tuner thinks it should be around 230kW. They seem to know their sh*t and they do all the possum bourn rally cars apprantly so no reason to dout them. Thanks guys/gals for all ya help, cheers.

Next mission... 270kW...

FMIC (XSPower / MGP)

Intake? (will i need oversize MAF and what brand, K&N Typhoon Kit, Perrin. Is cold intake worth it)

boot controller (E-Boost Street or will manual one do)

hks gt-rs / FP green / MAP Performance Turbo Kit

Injector Dynamics 1000cc

BOV (want minimal noise)

internal or external waste gate (is external worth the extra cost, want to dump into exhaust)

What do you all think, any sugestions...

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gt3071r, either in factory position with internal gate or a T3 flanged jobbie with external and around 20psi should get you to 270 nicely. TD06 also 'might' get you there.. vf or td05 will fall well short.

i'd bin your AFM and base the other sensors you need / want to run on a) the ECU you want to run and b) what your tuner suggests. MAP sensor is one you'll probably want to upgrade.

Other than that your away laughing... oh and good luck containing the factory internals at 270kw for any length of time.

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Next mission... 270kW...

FMIC (XSPower / MGP) - Any front mount kit should do...

Intake? (will i need oversize MAF and what brand, K&N Typhoon Kit, Perrin) - Silicone intake with pod on the end. Ditch the AFM - get a link and run MAP sensor. Cold air box??

boot controller (E-Boost Street or will manual one do) - Id definatly go for electronic boost control over manual.

hks gt-rs / FP green / MAP Performance Turbo Kit gt3071r

Injector Dynamics 1000cc - Perfect

BOV (want minimal noise) any BOV will do aslong as it can be plumbed back internal or external waste gate (is external worth the extra cost, want to dump into exhaust) - Personally id go for external - but internal will do the job just fine

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 X said:

can the rods in these handle that much power?

oh GOD not that conversation again. Yes for 0.1 secounds they will handle it.. maybe they will handle for another second after that.. maybe another 10k kms.. but frankly they might go any time - they are not designed for anywhere near that power from factory.

/end rant.

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Just looking at some bovs, is there any difference performace wise on the duel and plumb Turbosmart BOV's

SUBARU DUAL PORT - TS-0205-1016

Kompact PLUMB BACK – Subaru - TS-0203-1215 (rather)

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 o0steveo0o']

Just looking at some bovs, is there any difference performace wise on the duel and plumb Turbosmart BOV's

SUBARU DUAL PORT - TS-0205-1016

Kompact PLUMB BACK – Subaru - TS-0203-1215 (rather)

Plumb back stops you running rich. 50|50 makes you go VRRRROOOM PSISISSHSHS whilst reducing the running rich that having a full vent to air one causes (but not eliminating).

[quote name='o0steveo0o said:

So the stock forged rods and pistons are crap? cp pistons and eagle h-beam alot better?

They're not "crap", they're just b]designed to handle stock power levels[/b]. The version sevens have the "hardiest" internals, but they're still not designed for massive power increases as already mentioned

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if you use something like a GFB hybrid and you remove the trumpet(s) i can confirm they make almost no 'psssht' when venting and very unobtrusive while still allowing excellent flow out Bov while venting, as you'll need to be venting a good amount of air if you want to run 270kw +. a restrictive / quiet bov will might cause surge.

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