What Turbo Kit for 02 STi Spec C

[Guest]

so if I go for a turbosmart plumback i wont run rich but may be too restritive. Atmosphere ill run rich with no restriction?

[ADIKT]

 o0steveo0o said:

so if I go for a turbosmart plumback i wont run rich but may be too restritive. Atmosphere ill run rich with no restriction?

Not if you get your tune touched up to compensate for the atmo venting... or a re'flash

[Pappu1]

just use the stock bov lol.. in auz they use that on some really higer end cars

anyway, v7sti block has been known to handle 270kw

personally know some dudes with that

[ADIKT]

 pappu said:

just use the stock bov lol.. in auz they use that on some really higer end cars

anyway, v7sti block has been known to handle 270kw

personally know some dudes with that

Yea the block will.... the rods probably wont

[Tony]

IMO the rods should handle that power in a street car IF you are sensible AND have a good tuner.

Hell, my first built engine had (second hand) standard Ver. 7/8 STI rods and I raced it for 3 seasons with no rod out the block issues (when I say RACED, I mean actual circuit racing, lap after lap beating on the the car, which if something is gonna break, it will break in that environment for sure if your tune is not spot on) this was with (dyno dependant) 230-260kw atw.

I am only speaking from my experience here, so take from that what you will.

[Pappu1]

 ADIKT']

[quote name='pappu said:

just use the stock bov lol.. in auz they use that on some really higer end cars

anyway, v7sti block has been known to handle 270kw

personally know some dudes with that

/quote]

Yea the block will.... the rods probably wont

lol.. should have worded it better

meant shortblock

[D-Style]

 Tony said:

IMO the rods should handle that power in a street car IF you are sensible AND have a good tuner.

Hell, my first built engine had (second hand) standard Ver. 7/8 STI rods and I raced it for 3 seasons with no rod out the block issues (when I say RACED, I mean actual circuit racing, lap after lap beating on the the car, which if something is gonna break, it will break in that environment for sure if your tune is not spot on) this was with (dyno dependant) 230-260kw atw.

I am only speaking from my experience here, so take from that what you will.

Did you prep your bottom end at all?

Also what fails with factory rods? do they bend? flex and snap? BE bolts let go?

all good saying they cant handle high hp, but why exactly....

[Tony]

 D-Style']

IMO the rods should handle that power in a street car IF you are sensible AND have a good tuner.

Hell, my first built engine had (second hand) standard Ver. 7/8 STI rods and I raced it for 3 seasons with no rod out the block issues (when I say RACED, I mean actual circuit racing, lap after lap beating on the the car, which if something is gonna break, it will break in that environment for sure if your tune is not spot on) this was with (dyno dependant) 230-260kw atw.

I am only speaking from my experience here, so take from that what you will.

Did you prep your bottom end at all?

Bottom end was balanced etc, it was essentially a factory rebuild with decent forged pistons. I just couldnt afford any fancy rods at the time and the late model ones were free so I used them.

[quote name='D-Style said:

Also what fails with factory rods? do they bend? flex and snap? BE bolts let go?

all good saying they cant handle high hp, but why exactly....

I wouldnt know, I think a lot of people assume that because they are "factory" they will be weak... which I guess is true about the earlier anorexic rods, but the late model STI rods are quite a lot beefier and have a better rod bolt design so that helps their longevity. I think there was quite a lot of discussion about these rods on the NASIOC forums back in the day so those guys may have some more in depth answers as to why/how they break.

[Stoffa]

But the big question Tony was did you use factory rod bolts? secondhand/new/aftermarket?

[Tony]

 Stoffa said:

But the big question Tony was did you use factory rod bolts? secondhand/new/aftermarket?

Factory second hand ones that were in the rods.

[vorigan]

to what you use is just luck but if you want faith in a build do your self a BIG favor and just do it once but do it right, that's if you really give a crap about what your doing

And knowing dave@Dtech im sure he would say the same thing

[Tony]

Yeah for sure, I guess I have been extremely lucky over the years. And yes, Dave does know what he is doing hence the reason my engine lasted that long under those conditions.

Oh, and I do give a crap about what I am doing, but unfortunatly I am working on very slim budget (ha, never a good idea when it comes to motorsport lol!), so have to work with what I have available to me and make the best of it - so far so good - I have achieved and exceeded my goals with my car ;D

At the end of the day, even if you spend $$$$$ on all the best bits and build the so called "bulletproof" engine, things can, and will, break/fail... nothing lasts forever, sh*t happens etc - one small mistake can cost your mega dollar engine and it will be gone in a second - again, like you say - luck (and believe me, I have had my fair share of bad luck with other areas of the car over the years!)

[Stoffa]

 Tony said:

At the end of the day, even if you spend $$$$$ on all the best bits and build the so called "bulletproof" engine, things can, and will, break/fail... nothing lasts forever, sh*t happens etc - one small mistake can cost your mega dollar engine and it will be gone in a second - again, like you say - luck (and believe me, I have had my fair share of bad luck with other areas of the car over the years!)

Dont jinx me!!

*runs to the garage to tell his car "you'll be fine"*

[X]

tony isnt talking about you stoffa hahaha!

[Guest]

hay all, sorry for the noob question. if I get a fmic and rotated gt3076 / gt3076r (whats the difference), can I set it up so that it wont stress the stock engine too much (do you just run lower boost?). I understand there will be a down side like lag etc. Then latter on down the track when I rebuild the engine i can tune for more power. Might just splash out on a perrin rotated turbo kit and fmic. perrin stuff looks pretty...

[funkytown]

IMO as you should be running a vf34 it will be faster in real terms than a 3076r running low boost. By running a larger turbo like that on lower boost your effectively getting a higher boost threshold for no real gain in power. (harnessing the benefits of a much larger turbo).

Of course that all depends what you think low boost is and for what power output you want or think the 76 is capable of.

[Guest]

Engine wise I want to eventually do a cosworth forged stroker, sleaves, cams, springs etc. Power wise I want as much as that setup could reasonably and reliably handle without having to rebuild it every 5 minutes. Want to run two tunes, one for every day and another for track/drag. If i go with a stock location turbo kit I dont want to find out later on when I build the engine I would be better off with a rotated setup etc. Cant afford to do it all at once so need to do it in stages. I could allways leave it as it is but thats just borring. With that engine setup what kw@w do you thing that could handle for every day use and the odd drag/race day, want it to last say 50,000kms at the least. Hopfully that all makes sence...

[GC8E2DD]

How about build the engine first? You can worry less about blowing it up, still do track days and drag racing, and then chuck a big turbo on it when you have the money knowing it should handle the jandal. Assuming you don't manage to kill it with the stock turbo.

[Scoobydoo]

Yeah if I had the kind of budget that you're obviously talking about, I'd build a total engine out of the car, get everything done that you want and then just drop it all in over a weekend. That way you don't have any downtime on your car, and you can then sell your existing engine and parts to recoup some of the cost.

[Pappu1]

What he said above

[sultan]

i think you need a dose of reality and perhaps look at what exactly you're wanting to achieve. the last "power" goal i saw was 270kw, yet you've listed brand names of parts that will probably be a good 30 grand+ to put together. i highly doubt you will drop 30grand to get 270kw.

if you want to get 270kw, or what ever, cool.... but please stop dropping every brand name you find on nasioc/google.

if you want to get a reliable 270-300+ kw and you don't have 30grand to waste on brand names, rebuild your motor with aftermarket pistons and rods, get a mse td06/5 hybrid, a link g4, 700cc+ injectors, a walbro fuel pump, a heavy duty clutch, 10grand down, reliable, drivable.

[grego0o]

+1 if your chasing numbers then a subaru isn't for you.

See below for parts I used to get to 300kw.

Engine Mods:

V10 EJ25 rebuilt with:

100mm Oversized Wiseco Forged Pistons

Eagle Forged Rods

ARP Race Bearings

ARP Headbolts

Hyperflow Stage 1 Sump

Torque Solutions Aftermarket Solid Engine Mounts

Beatrush High Performance Solid Gearbox Mount

Stock EJ20 SPEC C Heads

Custom 6 Puk Clutch with a 2800lb Pressure Plate to handle the power

Garret GT3582R (Gt3540) with a .63 AR with V Band for easy install and removal

Custom Braided Oil Feed and Return Lines

50mm GFB V Band External Wastegate

Aftermarket 4-2-1 Stainless headers

Custom Up pipe twisted to fit the GT3540

4" Stainless Intake off the Turbo to a 4" HKS Mushroom Filter

Modified Trust Stainless 3" downpipe,

Full Stainless 3" exhaust with small tip for stealth

Link ECU Boost Controller

Link G4 Plug in ECU

Link Fuel Pressure Sensor and Oil Pressure Sensors

Standard Tank Fuel Pump as Lift Pump

1.5 Litre Surge Tank

Bosch 044 Fuel Pump

Split Fuel Rail

Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator

850cc Top Feed Injectors

Flipped V7 Manifold

Custom Intercooler Piping to work in with the flipped manifold and new turbo

600x200/300 Tube and Fin Intercooler

Aftermarket Alloy Radiator

Remote Oil Filter Kit with/

12 Row Oil Cooler

Custom Transmission cooler

2 Litre Catch Can Setup

Some of the above of course is not required but it all helps.

Greg

[sultan]

I've just had a check and the block alone will cost around 27 grand to land. Which i suppose would be fantastic if you want to build a 500kw monster. But then factor in another 20-30 grand to completion. If you did only want 270kw maybe 7grand on top of the 27. But what a waste