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abs delete


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so first off, can any one find Lorens ABS delete thread? Not even i can find it >:(

What im after is to work out where all the hard lines go? That is to work out what needs replacing.

obviously i'd need master cylinder and bias valve? Do the abs line make it all the way to the hub or is it just the sensors? i will do more looking myself but help / links / info welcome.

Im not worried about the the electrical and sensor removal at this stage just the hardware.

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 funkytown']

so first off, can any one find Lorens ABS delete thread?

I think it was pre~CS crash

I have even asked him and he doesnt have the documentation anymore

[quote name='JoKer said:

Can anyone dig out the thread old user "Loren" (spelling I forget how the male version is spelt) did on this exact thing? or was it pre' 2009 forum?

you have to convince the cert guy you have disabled/removed all traces of it and that the braking system is safe/effective with OEM components removed

iirc he swapped over brake-lines and had diagrams to prove his modifications

edit I have sent him a PM to see if he still has info on file

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so lets dispell some myths. I realised having the RA sti sitting in the garage behind mine i could do some comparisons.

edit - pics fixed.

Here is what my associated bits look like

20120909_092208.jpg

and both mine and the RA have this - What is it? it sits right up behind the drives strut by the firewall.

20120909_092159.jpg

In the first pic you the thing with the two yellow cirles - this is th one on the RA - what is this and is it different in fuction to mine?

20120909_092226.jpg

the rear brake lines come up to this on both items - in exactly the same place. So - it looks like to do the conversion you need the brake master, new front brake lines (they go to the ABS pump on mine and to the master on the RA). and new lines from that yellow circles thing to the master for the rear lines (very short lines).

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its rumoured to be a dampening block, personally I think its just there to make it easier to bleed the stupid amount of line.

my car has no ABS you can check it out when I drop off your fuel can.

in the mean time heres a few pics before my engine went back in

smallenginein.jpg

img2715i.jpg

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i wonder if that thing then is acceptable to keep using with no abs?

Demo - on the non abs master, it has four outlets

The two front wheels go straight to the master. The two rear wheels go to that block thing, then up to the master

On my car (abs) it went 2 outlets off the master to the ABS pump, then the two front wheels, and the two rears off the abs pump to that block, then onto the rear wheels..

So i cant work out what that block is really doing...

The second pic - is that the proportioning valve?

stoffa - would be good to look. That thing looks about the same as lukes

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Your second pic is the clutch damper line thing (as Stoffa said).

Proportioning valve is the black thing that the lines go into (on the RA and Stoffa's car). Your ABS prop valve would be the thing with the 2 yellow circles on it, but I have no experience with ABS and how the valve would differ between the 2 models (although surely there is a reason for it being different)

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not sure if this is any help funky? :) my abs proportion valve had 4 lines - both left & right rears feeding 'from' the abs unit into then out to rear wheels, my abs master cylinder had only two lines feeding 'to' abs unit, whereas the non abs has 4 lines from master cylinder :)

Posted 05 June 2011 - 9:17 AM

my rs didn't have abs, the gt i removed the abs system,

you will need a master cylinder & portion valve from a non abs vehicle & the two short lines from master cyclinder to portion valve also (for the rear brakes), abs has only two side ports from the master cylinder, whereas non abs has four.

i removed all the sensors from the hubs & plugged the holes in front wheel arches with blanking gromets found on the non abs versions, same with the rear lines under the rear seat on both sides,

The Two Front wheel lines need to be shortened, & because they are coated this makes it kind of a pain but with the right tools it can be done, On the other hand you can use a 3/16 pipe bending plier & bend to suit to plumb into the two side ports of the master cylinder.

The two bottom ports from the master cylinder run to the portion valve & run to the two (rear brake) lines running from beside the booster through the firewall beside throttle cable

also remove the little bulb that twists from behind the speedo cluster, this is the abs light & check it's the right one as i removed the intercooler one, so then i had to do that over again

remove the fuses from the fuse box, & that's about job done once system bleed.

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all cars since the 80s have had split systems (ie 2 master outlets) even me a sparky knows that lol

The first pic is ya clutch lines and bleed point so you dont need to remove IC (on std car) - excessie weight - throw em out

the prop valve ( yellow circle thing you mentioned and the same location black block ) is the thing that regulates rear/front pressure % split

Pedal box for the win funky - you'll be able to set up brake %'s to what you want

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